Pre Start Maintanence.
#1
Pre Start Maintanence.
These may seem like dumb questions with obvious answers should I look under the car.
A lot of questions.
Thing is I need to get my RX7 running as soon as possible, and Im low on tools so to make sure I have everything I need as soon as I get under the car Id like some info on some things before hand so I can go and get tools and try to get this done in a day. I just bought an 87 base model FC. Its a one owner car and its been sitting for a year so theres some things I want to take care of before I even ATTEMPT to start it.
To do list
-Replace battery
-Change oil
-Drain gas tank and fuel lines
Changing Oil - What size socket should I need for the oil drain plug? How many quarts are required and what weight oil do you recommend. I was thinking Castrol GTX 10-30. The engine has 151k miles exactly.
Do these cars also have oil coolers even on the N/A models? Should I drain the oil cooler as well to be thorough and then refill? and What tools will I need for this.
Its an automatic so I would like to replace the ATF fluid. What is the recommended ATF and what amount. And what size tool should I need for the drain plug and or fill plug and I have never added ATF to a transmission..where is this located.
Removing the gas tank should be straight forward..Are there any threaded fastners I will need a tool for? If so what size.
Are there any set bleeding procedures for a S4 13B cooling system That I should know to follow? I do not want to risk over heating in the smallest..And would like to flush the cooling system and replace any wear items. ( Fan clutch, T-stat)
All input is appreciated if theres something else that needs to be addressed!
A lot of questions.
Thing is I need to get my RX7 running as soon as possible, and Im low on tools so to make sure I have everything I need as soon as I get under the car Id like some info on some things before hand so I can go and get tools and try to get this done in a day. I just bought an 87 base model FC. Its a one owner car and its been sitting for a year so theres some things I want to take care of before I even ATTEMPT to start it.
To do list
-Replace battery
-Change oil
-Drain gas tank and fuel lines
Changing Oil - What size socket should I need for the oil drain plug? How many quarts are required and what weight oil do you recommend. I was thinking Castrol GTX 10-30. The engine has 151k miles exactly.
Do these cars also have oil coolers even on the N/A models? Should I drain the oil cooler as well to be thorough and then refill? and What tools will I need for this.
Its an automatic so I would like to replace the ATF fluid. What is the recommended ATF and what amount. And what size tool should I need for the drain plug and or fill plug and I have never added ATF to a transmission..where is this located.
Removing the gas tank should be straight forward..Are there any threaded fastners I will need a tool for? If so what size.
Are there any set bleeding procedures for a S4 13B cooling system That I should know to follow? I do not want to risk over heating in the smallest..And would like to flush the cooling system and replace any wear items. ( Fan clutch, T-stat)
All input is appreciated if theres something else that needs to be addressed!
#2
Oil drain plug is either 19mm or 21mm.
Not sure of capacity
GTX 10-30 is fine
Yes oil coolers on all 2nd gen models.
Not sure on ATF stuff
Gas tank should have a few bolts holding the tank straps. My guess is 14mm.
A search for coolant bleeding would provide good results.
Replace T-stat with OEM one (as in, from Mazda).
Not sure of capacity
GTX 10-30 is fine
Yes oil coolers on all 2nd gen models.
Not sure on ATF stuff
Gas tank should have a few bolts holding the tank straps. My guess is 14mm.
A search for coolant bleeding would provide good results.
Replace T-stat with OEM one (as in, from Mazda).
#4
Thanks for that link.
I got the oil changed..got a battery in it (Its used from my 240sx) It fits perfectly
Just one issue..I dont want to open the body harness but I need to be sure which wire is the positive wire to the battery...
Theres one lead with ONE black wire witH YELLOW stripe..On nissans Black/yellow = Start...So I would assume this is the positive wire...but I want to be sure. The second lead has two black wires.
I got the oil changed..got a battery in it (Its used from my 240sx) It fits perfectly
Just one issue..I dont want to open the body harness but I need to be sure which wire is the positive wire to the battery...
Theres one lead with ONE black wire witH YELLOW stripe..On nissans Black/yellow = Start...So I would assume this is the positive wire...but I want to be sure. The second lead has two black wires.
#6
LOL ok...
In all honesty ive never had to figure this out before ^_^ All my cars have originally had them hooked up...and I would trace the wires but I dont feel like cutting the harness apart.
In all honesty ive never had to figure this out before ^_^ All my cars have originally had them hooked up...and I would trace the wires but I dont feel like cutting the harness apart.
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#8
Well this is interesting....
Seems abnormal..whenever I turn the key to ACC theres a pronounced "click" whenever I turn the key to on, ACC or back from ACC to ON and off (Im not trying to start it yet as I want to drain the fuel first and start fresh). And when I turn the radio on..The antennae will raise and like clock work (Right when the antennae finished raising) the Add coolant buzzer sounds and its INCREDIBLY ******* loud...
Also if i turn it towards start but NOT on start.. A fan starts turning..Is that for the oil cooler and or A/C condensor? Is it suppose to turn the fan first or does that mean I have wiring problems...
Seems abnormal..whenever I turn the key to ACC theres a pronounced "click" whenever I turn the key to on, ACC or back from ACC to ON and off (Im not trying to start it yet as I want to drain the fuel first and start fresh). And when I turn the radio on..The antennae will raise and like clock work (Right when the antennae finished raising) the Add coolant buzzer sounds and its INCREDIBLY ******* loud...
Also if i turn it towards start but NOT on start.. A fan starts turning..Is that for the oil cooler and or A/C condensor? Is it suppose to turn the fan first or does that mean I have wiring problems...
Last edited by Photonic; 06-20-09 at 04:02 PM.
#9
Its an auto rite? So no need to depress a clutch, The sound could be the solenoid on the starter, is it just one click or is it a chatter, and it should of origianally came with a mechanical fan not an electric fan. Yes the buzzer for add coolant is a little loud. It does take a few seconds after turning the key to the on position for the add coolant buzzer to sound if you are low on coolant.
#10
It has nothing to do with the starter cuz I havent turned it to start yet.
I wont do that Till I have drained all the fuel and put fresh gas in it.
Im hearing alot of what sounds like relays clicking or arcing..It will just happen when i turn the key to a position..but it seems odd...No other cars ive had do it this much..
It even does it when I go BACK from on to ACC.
probably not a big deal just paranoid.
I wont do that Till I have drained all the fuel and put fresh gas in it.
Im hearing alot of what sounds like relays clicking or arcing..It will just happen when i turn the key to a position..but it seems odd...No other cars ive had do it this much..
It even does it when I go BACK from on to ACC.
probably not a big deal just paranoid.
Last edited by Photonic; 06-20-09 at 06:06 PM.
#12
Ok im a moron.
But DAMN how can anyone destroy these cars??
I checked the coolant level and it LOOKED fine..So I negated the probability that it was ACTUALLY low on coolant..I got fed up so I said **** it ill STILL add more water..I poured water for about 2 seconds till the bleeder cap leaked..turned it on ..wait...wait...wait....wait...NO coolant alarm.
This ****** will go off if you are like 3 ounces low!! XD I bet with oil its the same way. How anyone can neglect a rotary is BEYOND me.
So yea thats taken care of..
But DAMN how can anyone destroy these cars??
I checked the coolant level and it LOOKED fine..So I negated the probability that it was ACTUALLY low on coolant..I got fed up so I said **** it ill STILL add more water..I poured water for about 2 seconds till the bleeder cap leaked..turned it on ..wait...wait...wait....wait...NO coolant alarm.
This ****** will go off if you are like 3 ounces low!! XD I bet with oil its the same way. How anyone can neglect a rotary is BEYOND me.
So yea thats taken care of..
#13
what is it? anyone know?
#14
Ok I was checking out an exhaust leak (I guess..Its spitting out smoke from the engine bay when I "try" to start it)
And I saw this
Shouldnt there be a wire going to that?? is that an 02 sensor. Look at the exhaust..the thingie that looks like it might be an 02 sensor with no wire on it.
And I saw this
Shouldnt there be a wire going to that?? is that an 02 sensor. Look at the exhaust..the thingie that looks like it might be an 02 sensor with no wire on it.
#16
like i said before Sounds like your not getting enough gas jump that yellow plug for the fuel pump it'll disable all the sensors that run or adjust fp (afm etc.) also replace that o2 sensor that doesn't help the car any the way it is either any way good luck
#21
Which side of the connector though?
Theres two connectors that fit together obviously..
Do I jump the connector with the wires going to the back of the car? or coming from the front.
Theres two connectors that fit together obviously..
Do I jump the connector with the wires going to the back of the car? or coming from the front.
#23
Don't drop the tank to drain the fuel. You can pull the fuel pump out of the service hole in the floor of the hatch. It is the service hole on the drivers side for the fuel pump. Buy a $10 hand pump and pump the tank dry.
#24
I put some starter fluid in it and for some reason It didint do ****...Maybe its just not getting enough spark..
It was kicking like every other turn with just my foot off the gas..so it was doing something getting some fuel at least..the combustion was more pronounced today since i replaced the fuel filter..which supported my belief that it wasnt getting enough fuel.....I sprayed some starter fluid down past the butterfly and opened the throttle and turned it over and it didint do ANYTHING...of course the battery was getting weaker and weaker as i turned it.
I just put new plugs in it though...
It was kicking like every other turn with just my foot off the gas..so it was doing something getting some fuel at least..the combustion was more pronounced today since i replaced the fuel filter..which supported my belief that it wasnt getting enough fuel.....I sprayed some starter fluid down past the butterfly and opened the throttle and turned it over and it didint do ANYTHING...of course the battery was getting weaker and weaker as i turned it.
I just put new plugs in it though...
Last edited by Photonic; 06-25-09 at 05:24 PM.
#25
Right near Malloy
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Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
I woludn't even waste my time draining the fuel.
1 year shouldn't make fuel go stale enough to be useless. Maybe low on power, but not useless.
My car sat for two years with an 8th of a tank and I fired it up on that... Changed the oil and coolant hoses and filled it up with fresh.
1 year shouldn't make fuel go stale enough to be useless. Maybe low on power, but not useless.
My car sat for two years with an 8th of a tank and I fired it up on that... Changed the oil and coolant hoses and filled it up with fresh.