I am wanting to have a very aggressive port job doen on the next RX7 I buy, but was wondering about how dailey drivable a j port or bridgeport would be.. I am use to radical Big block pro street cars so that is a norm..

How is a rotor car done this way? Issues?

 

J ports are not reliable. Unless you are in a form of racing that bans peripheral ports, you should not consider them.

Is this car turbo or NA?

In general, a bridgeport makes a rotary act exactly like a piston engine with a radical cam. Loping at idle, poor mileage, some low end loss but a major midrange and top end boost. Bridgeports radically decrease turbo spool time. They are harder to tune and draw little vacuum at low RPMs.

 

Well Ihave not yet even bought a car... This is coming next month.. Just trying to get I deas for the car and lay out a plan... I was thinking of going turbo on it and love the sound of a good bridgeport.. No racing organizations for me... Just want a radical rotor car,,,

 

full bridgeport is the way to go

 

I guess the next question is either to get a 1st gen 12a ,or 13b or go with a second gen n/a car and mod it... The first are lighter correct?

As you can tell from my sig I do not have a bunch of cash to start with...

 

Unless you plan on porting and building the engine yourself, your budget is already shot at 2k. I have a 12A 1/2sp-1/2bp. Until I installed the Weber DCD carbs, it was a major pita to drive on the street. Time to start reading up on engine building and porting padiwan. Start with my sig line for links to the FSMs and other rotary reading. You may wish to concider starting with a street port for your first rotary adventure.
.
.
.
.
.
.

 

TwistedOne, these are the two best pieces of info/advice you should take from this thread.

 

i had a 1/2 bridge frankenstien motor in my 84 that i drove nearly daily in the summer. it was loud as hell, made the whole car shake at a stop, poor low end, but great power abouve 4000 rpm. gas mileage really sucked *** though. all in all, i would have gone with a real agressive street port. but it was fun as hell!

 

Thanks Guys.. The 2k is just the budget to a get a stock driver... I will then buy a spare motor to have ported by a local racer from here. He owns a Mexican Resteraunt and has a 93 RX7 that runs in the 5's in the 1/8. Has a contact in PR for all his parts and is willing to help me out...

Thanks for all the advise... About the mpg and sound, I don't mind poor mpg ot loud.. I drive a 602rwhp diesel pickup daily to work... I want this thing to be radical and still be able to handle a bit of daily driving..

Just something diffrent to drive every now and then... I will check out those links

 

power wise the 13B second gen would be your best bet, but being on a budget...

 

I am only on a budget to get the car... Once it is home it is easy to spend money on it.. I was wrong on my buddies car... It went 4:80's in the 1/8th and 7:60's in the 1/4. I went nad had dinner with him tonight at his resturaumt. The car is in PR right now getting worked out..

He told me he has a 5 letter car that he gave $600 fot.. Has RB Intake, Holley and header already on it.. Said for me to come look at it and maybe we can work a deal.. So we will see...

Oh and his car is a P port turbo 13b..


The NA 2nd gens look to be affordable...

 

A 13B P-Port, when done right, can put out 275+ hp NA.

 

Why isnt a J port reliable?

 

J-ports breach the main inner coolant seal and has to be sealed off. Does not hold up over time. Longevity estimates run 10-20k miles, if that.

 

oooh. That sucks. So its more of a drag engine type porting?

 

Yep, though some of those crazy Aussies street drive them.

 

This is the opposite way to do a half bridge. You've bridgeported the primaries while leaving the secondaries unbridged. That's very weird.

Anyone else reading this thread needs to know that it is supposed to be the secondaries that are bridged while the primaries are not.

A J-port extends into the water jacket. Thus the water o-ring needs to be cut to allow the port and then somehow sealed up again. Silicone is the normal way and gradually through heating and cooling it begins to leak water into the intake port. J-port life is very short. It was developed as a way of getting around rules banning peripheral ports in certain classes of racing.

 

yea, it was done by the P.O. he explained the reasoning, but i forgot why he did it that way. either way, it runs like a raped OOT.

although, trochiods motor has 1/2 BP secondaries, so at least im not alone!

 

You can't beat the sound of a full Bridgeport, a mate of mine has one and it sounds superb

Mark

 

I was thinking the same thing Mark...

Here is a question for the experts.. What do yall think of the 6 port motor for a full bridgeport and a turbo add on later?

 

That is the expensive way to go about things. Remember there is no turbo kit available for the 6 port currently, so you would be fabbing the setup yourself.

Honestly unless you have another reason, if you are considering going turbo, then start with the TII engine. It will save you a lot of work.

Or, start with the turbo first and don't bother bridgeporting. You'll make more power with a minor turbo upgrade and your fuel mileage won't stink.

 

Ahh I see.. One of the cars I am looking at has a pretty fresh 6 port fi motor init.. Is a good seal and I hate to pass on it.. But I want a radicla rotary so I need to invest in the best route available...

 

If you have tuning and fab experience, then a bridgeported turbo 6 port is a pretty radical combination. At least, I think mine is...

 

So how much fab work? Just a header and intercooling stuff?

I would love to see yours...

 

I just looked on your site and saw them.. Nice car... Very Nice... I forgot to add.. Tuning part I am so so but my buddy Alex said he uses a guy out of Orlando so I guess we will take it down there when it is done..

That guys tunes his cars for him...