Dug my new brushes out today NAPA part # E512 now these brushes were ordered for a standard trans.86 rx7 brushes for the auto and t11 were not available but they looked the same in the picture so I thought it is only 12% restocking so I ordered them ... I go to put them in today and after a good look at new and old for a bit I notice that the standard trans brushes are the same thickness but they are about 30% narrower than the auto or t11 brushes ( so unless the armature brush face on the standard starter is narrower the standard starter could be upgraded to the same turning power as the auto - t11 just by installing different brushes ).. The new holder bolts into place perfect every thing fit real nice although now I have downgraded to 30% less brush surface and turning power than what my auto- t11 trans starter should have .. It still has lots of turning speed I suppose it just wont last quite as long as the original ( It will never be used in the winter ) ... After installing starter I did a compression test and found it to be 112 front and 110 rear with rotor wet with a tad of oil and throttle wide open .. That is the average from 5 tests every thing seemed to be balanced well with each rotor sounding the same as they passed the plug holes .. I think I had better start shopping for a nice cupped rear sand tire I figure I'm going to need it

 

Getting ready to replace the angle sensor with a first gen dizzy for my drag bike . I removed the angle sensor and decided to reinstall it just so I knew what to do and getting the marks right when installing the dizzy .. I crank the engine clock wise till the pointer near the front pulley and the first pulley mark are lined up ,, I check the angle sensor and line up the dot on the gear with the mark on the sensor body ,, I install the angle sensor into the engine I look at the pickup and there is a little white dot on the angle sensor spur (someone painted it there ) There is also a tiny o stamped on the spur (factory mark)at the same place that the white dot is and they are 180 deg. from the pickup.. See Pics..I went through these steps three times and every time the mark on the spur is 180 deg. out .. When I bought the car the guy told me he could not get it running after his friend installed the engine in this car ( It was really flooded bad the oil pan was way over full and it smelled strong of gas .. Is it possible that the drive gear on the angle sensor is on 180 deg. out or is off set so that it cant be put on a half turn out .. The engine compression is 112 front rotor and 110 on rear rotor seems like it is away up there compared to most that I have read about .. I don't believe that these guys ever had this engine running . Can someone enlighten me on this problem .. Thank-you

 

So many questions ... Got my dizzy but can't get into the files for first and second gen I just got a new computer and haven't got it figured out yet .. Anyway the leading coil has three wires a red and a light brown on one plug and one single black the trailing coil has 6 wires 4 to the square plug red , white ,yellow and grey. two light brown to double plug .. The dizzy has 2 pickups one pointing to the front and one to the rear both have a red and green wire to their plugs, it also has two vacuum advance pots do they both share the same vacuum source or do they work the other way and advance when the vacuum drops ?? . I would also like it to start and run proper the first time it makes for a better relation ship.I have two 13 b engines the one I am using had a stock exhaust manifold the other just has a header I can't find any info on the little holes under the exhaust ports .. I want to use the header but am wondering if I am going to effect something by having the small exhaust hole covered is this something for emissions and really unimportant to performance or what ? thanks again for any help... Gerald

 

You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader: http://www.adobe.com/reader . I think it is called "Reader-X" now.

The small holes are for emissions. The header will block them off.

 

yea that worked perfect .. I have been working on this for 2 days went to many adobe download sites and they all went through the motions but in the end did nothing but waste friggin time .. Anyone one having trouble with the fsm's this one rocks thanks

 

I finally got that dam Dizzy to fire both my coils so now I need to bolt the engine down to the bench and fire it up .. As soon as I get My new video camera I am going to do a clear and simple video of the procedures to wire a first gen dizzy to a pair of second gen coils and igniters .. I read so many threads and none of them gave a clear explanation of how to do this ( a big for the FSM's ).. The guys that know how say it's simple sure it's simple after you know how .. I will also start a build thread in the old school and others section it seems the most appropriate to me .. Going to Regina on the 27th. or 28th. to pick up frame ,, front end ,, shaft drive,, just a bunch of different stuff so I can get started on the frame and final drive ... This is what makes my heart pump http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqGsY...etailpage#t=5s

 

Well the holidays are over thank god .. Here are a few modifications that I did with the dizzy for the 13b 6 port application .. Took a bit to figure out but it's clean and simple and the cover fits nice and snug to hold the dizzy connectors in place .. just ran shrink tube on the wiring to keep it tidy . I have put off firing it up for the first time because I want to take a video of the first start up and I am still waiting on my new camera . I don.t know why it is so important to me for everyone to see any problems that might be associated with first start but I guess to me trouble shooting is half the battle .. I have one more video from youtube everyone with a rotary will recognize this sound . These things have so much power and torque that the throttle needs to be backwards so that it returns when you fall off no not really but it does need to be backwards because if it was the right way the throttle would be wide open just from holding on so it goes on the left handle bar so it needs to be rolled foreward to accelerate .. Thanks for taking the time to look .. Any imput is welcome ,,http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOTah...etailpage#t=2s

 

Those videos are terrifying. I've done a lot of crazy stuff, but there is no way you'd get me on that.

Glad to hear everything is working out with your wiring.

 

the vac advance share the same vac source and work the same way as any vac advance does. T it together at the dizzy and connect it to the barb at the metering plate.

 

Thanks Aaron The wiring almost made me bald .from my head finally I went outside and brought in a wheelbarrow full of wiring and realized the they changed the rules halfway across the stream .. once I got the original wire connectors and realized the wire colour changed at the plugs and then figured it from the colour code . But I will say one thing ( and I think that was your intention in the first place !) It was a good lesson on the ignition side of things and I will be a slobbering old man before I forget how to wire that ignition up Yea the bike will be a challenge without a doubt , besides the v8 that sucked I have never had one with more than a 100 HP that's why we only go for three hundred feet a lot of **** can happen in three hundred feet ,, I'm gettin to dam old for this too but I can't help it guess it helps to be a little loonie too.; But you know Aaron with all due respect ,there is something to be said about a man that builds 1500 pound cars with 500 + HP and takes his friend for a drive and makes her pee her pants from plain terror.. Thanks Rztasy3 I kinda thought that is the way the hose should go but nothing suprises me on these things I just go with the flow and absorb as much as I can ... these are Just a few bike parts parts that I am going to stick together ,it's going to get pretty long we will see what happens .. thanks

 

This is the first in a series of short videos on my bike for dirt drag build ..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SF5-7tPSm8

 

14:40 on machining brake pin and new rear axel and parts for bike build .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esMor6W3kCI

 

Great videos.

As for the oil cooler, yes, you absolutely need it. The only way the rotors are cooled is via the oil, which is responsible for about 30% of total engine cooling.

With that header and just a megaphone, it is going to be LOUD.

For the port actuators, how about a small CO2 bottle? Or even just a small compressed air cylinder?

The extra hole on the water pump housing is for the bracket that holds the stock air pump.

The engine was likely not from Japan as there were no NA FCs sold there.

Sure wish I had a lathe...

 

Hey thanks Aaron it's kinda fun but it takes a lot of time, actually I think it takes longer doing the video than doing the work . Nothing like adding time to a project.[INDENT]As far as the cooler goes I figured as much and yea the cooler the oil the better on pretty much any engine I guess when I get thinking about it that was kind of a dumb question .[INDENT] I like the idea of the compressed air tank I have a nice old brass fire extinguisher that would work perfect and then what, a switch on the throttle to a valve in the air line with a small reg on it?? A 100 lbs of air in a 2 litre container would last quite a few runs .. Yea something on that line sounds good to me .. I love my lathe I have a mill to.. I use the lathe more but for sure they both have their place .. I have been watching your video of your resto cosmo a guy like you could turn out some real works of art with a machining centre . You are welcome to come and use mine any time Aaron I like Timmy double double and yea maybe a couple of those curly things too.

 

Ideally the ports would be actuated via engine load like the factory system. That's probably why Mazda did exhaust gas back pressure in the S4 because it was an easy to get a load signal. In your case, maybe some kind of hob switch that closes near atmospheric in combination with an RPM switch so you can tune the opening time to what your manifold likes. Just having them flop open when you go wide open throttle will make the engine sort of fall on it's face. Yeah, I was thinking of a compressed air tank with a regulator because you only need about 2PSI. A tank at 100 PSI would probably last forever and can always be recharged by a small tire inflation pump if necessary.

I've been looking at getting one of those cheap Princess Auto mini-mills when they are next on sale but I suspect the money is better spent on a lathe first and some tooling. At this point I'm out of room for tools so I think that will wait until I buy a house with a shop instead of renting the shop I have currently.

 

I think it will be a combo of 3 or 4 different things before I am happy with the way the port valves turn on and off .. I know what you mean for sure , I don't want them just going from closed to wide open .. I have even thought about wraping a spring around the actuator rod to slow the process down .. The small lathes that you speak of are ok for tinkering Aaron but you would out grow something like that in 6 months to a year .. They are ok for making tiny little pieces but not much good to really make bigger things with .. You would need about a 48 inch with a 12 inch throw or so then you could make any part on any of your car projects .. The lathe is the cheap part the tooling is worth more than the machine .. I paid around $3,500.00 for the lathe and about $10,000.00 for tooling but of course I didn't buy it all at once . just one or two pieces at a time .. But a set of simple good quality cutting tools for inside and outside work with a couple good threaders would get you started for around $500.00 and that would get most jobs done .. Lots of the locals bring me things that that they can't buy . I know what they think , well I can't buy it so I will go over and see the nut and see if he can make me one ,not that I care what anyone thinks.. but the lathe is one tool that has paid for it's self a few times over .. For guys that like to make their own path and do their own work they are one of the best tools you could have.

 

The nice thing right now is with the economy like it is, big machine shops are now willing to do small jobs like never before. So for the time being, anytime I need something machined I just drop it off. The machinist jumps at the chance to not have a ten million dollars worth of machines idle, and workers sitting around in the break room. Guess I'll have to start hitting the local auctions, because now is probably the time to find a cheap Bridgeport and a lathe.

 

That is what I would do ,not only can a nice used lathe be bought at a very good price but more often than not they come with tools .. One of the big problems in buying a small little dude is most of them the table can't be reversed on it's own when you reverse a small one the head also reverses so you can't cut going from chuck to tailstock just from tail stock to chuck . not all but most . They also tend to viberate when cutting something of any size ,They are kinda like a real skinny chick there is nothing there to keep the bones from rattling .. I find it very satisfying to make my own stuff , even when i screw up after all it is just a chunk of iron .. Making mistakes makes for good concentrated learning ..

 

10:00 on frame build and machining a frame bushing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsEgrtzeOaw

 

15:00 minutes on machining and drilling a simple spacer bushing to replace the old mono shock system .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=w5_F4miJSrA

 

14.47 minutes on frame build , welding , pipe bender . The frame I started just wasn't wide enough to accommodate the rotary engine properly so I cut part of it and made it 2 inches wider to help make the bike easier to balance at low speeds .. The bike has grown to about 10 ft. long some say it will be easier to handle some say it will be harder to handle.. my experience with bikes tells me that the rake or (angle) of the front end will determine how it handles along with how low the center of gravity is .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7JNJXrkgLY

 

Here is a short video of extending the front frame tubes so the frame will reach over the engine package .. Missed the air box by about 1 inch ( just slipped by the side of it so that worked out better than I thought ).. I finally did get some pipe bent for the upper frame rails without any kinks ( that will be the next video ) ,So that worked out better than I thought ,, Also got my rad mounted and the oil cooler mounted vertically behind the rad ( very tight fit )so it should drain back into the oil pan on shutdown, that should be good for doing oil changes.. Rear mono shock is gone and solid struts added. Every thing on this machine has either been modified or made special .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvIT4...er_profilepage

 

Just a short video on my pneumatic pipe bender set up to try to put out some nice pieces for the frame ,not an easy thing but it is possible if there is enough time taken .. To do even better I think the two top rollers should also have a cushion pad on them to keep the pipe nice with no dents especially on lighter stuff.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zZY1...er_profilepage