1988 fc turbo2
hey guys i need help hopefuly some of u ran into this problem i recently upgraded to a fmic and a 4core rad i have a efan on it its about 1" thick an about 16"-17" wide an no fan shroud im thinking that i need a bigger fan with a shroud but idk i would really like to hear wat u might think it could be . oh an it gets really pressurized even tha over flow resivor gets pressurized its crazy i have no leaks also. i really need to get my car running right its my daily an my parents just finsh dumping 5k on my car to get all this work done to it an its running like **** when it was running fine before we took it to this guy that did all tha work plz i cant have anymore unnessesary money dumped into her thanks i hope u guys can help me out

 

You need to go back to the stock fan and fan shroud. We rebuilt a turbo II and had the e-fan on it because it looked cool. The car would start to overheat. I even built custom fan shroud for the e-fan. Kept it cooler but car would get hot at highway speeds. We put the stock fan shroud and stock clutch/fan back on and the car has not even been close to hot since then. Mazda knew what they were doing when they designed that system. My advice, and the advice of the mechanic, don't mess with the cooling system. Also DO NOT try to run the car when it gets hot or starts to overheat because you will absolutely damage the motor.

 

Wait... Your car was running just fine, so you paid $5,000 to have someone make it run like ****?

Would you be able to post some pictures of your set-up?

 

*Complaints that a car runs hot on the street with a FMIC are not uncommon. At least on the 3rd Gens.
*Not super-familiar with the FC, but tend to agree with the above...if the stock fan and shroud fit, put them back on. If not, at least get a shrouded fan that moves at least as much air as the stock fans did.
*The fact that you're pressurizing the over-flow is NOT a good sign, especially since you're having issues with overheating. Check the line going to the overflow bottle carefully and make sure it isn't kinked. Otherwise there's a fair chance you now have a damaged coolant seal.
*Run as much water to coolant as you can safely in your climate.
*Stop making your parents spend money to modify YOUR car.

 

Return it to the shop immediately! Otherwise, you are taking responsibility for a mistake that they might have made... Sounds like a blown coolant seal, which means a rebuild.

One other possibility to consider first would be a radiator cap that runs the incorrect pressure.




.

 

I have a beefy FMIC and on a 107 degree day I was running 97c. Normal operating temps in 95-100 degree georgia weather is 88-92c.

 

I agree. Put the stock fan back on.

 

did you bother checking the water pump, or thermostat

 

Ok so I took tha rad out cuz turns out it was clogged wit **** put my stock one back on an ran fine stayed on temp wasn't over heating on idle or while driving but I wasn't driving my dad was -.- every time I get something fixed that did my self I tell him no but I did this time but on one rule CRUSE don't push it or over rev nuttin but he didn't listen out of tha drive way he pushes my **** to 6 on every shift an ends up blowin my stock rad

 

An tha reason they dumped 5k in my car is cuz it was a birth day gift an had some extra cash layin around but guess it was a gift gone wrong

 

^And it helps to check spelling, grammar and punctuation. As you move from this section to the main 2nd Gen. section you may not get the responses you hope for. If readers have to work too hard they may just pass you by.

 

Well, happy belated birthday. I'm sorry to hear that this happened as a gift. I didn't mean to make fun... It just didn't make sense to me when I first read your initial post.

It sounds like you need a serious coolant flush on that new radiator and the whole engine. Oh, and even though your dad paid for it... Don't let him drive it. ;-)

 

I would put up some pics so u guys can see but I don't kno how to post them from my phone

 

I'm not trying to be smart here but being a dad of an rx-7 owner and and rx-7 owner myself, I feel I have to speak up a little. First off, don't blame your father for a mechanical breakdown. They put five grand into your car so you could have something nice and unique. If that motor was going to go, it was going to go. If it was recently rebuilt, I might be concerned about the rebuild but you indicate overheating to the boiling point which is bad, bad, bad for rotaries as the coolant seals start to go after that. The new radiator should have been flushed and cleaned before you put it on. I'm not sure how your father "blew up" the radiator. That indicates excessive coolant pressure which means the coolant system was failing, probably coolant seals. The good news is that if that was all that went bad, it is way cheaper to rebuild than if it ate an apex seal or something. No way to know until it gets torn apart. I know you are young but don't be so quick to blame dad for something that would have likely occurred no matter who was driving the car. These cars are different from anything in the world that is out there. You are going to love them and hate them at the same time. It's what we do. If it's not something you are willing to pour your heart, soul, and money into, then maybe this car isn't for you.

 

Well it's not the seals cuz my car doesn't smoke so I kno there's no water/coolant goin into the housings it was most likely just garbage in my cooling passages cuz I noticed some flakes in the new rad that the machanic put in . Is there a flush that I can use that will take all that garbage out I flushed it out alot wit just water but idk if that's good enough

 

bad coolant seals do not mean it has to smoke, in many cases the combustion is only forced into the cooling system and not into the engine.

sounds like it's too late. not sure why everyone switches to e-fans, they usually CAUSE issues compared to correct them.

 

Apparently CLR is great for removing crud from a coolant system. Most guys use it just the same as a regular flush. Put in a bottle or 2 and fill the rest of the system with water. Then run it at operating temperature for 10 or 15min (if your car doesn't overheat). Drain and repeat until the fluid coming out is clear and contaminant free. Then flush with water once or twice before filling it back up with coolant. I would have a look at the heater core before to see what condition it is in. The crud has to be coming from somewhere. If the heater core is badly rusted, a good flush could eat through the rust that is sealing it and make an awful leak.
However, If you coolant seals are toast, I have no Idea what the effects of CLR getting in there would be.