SWEET!!!! sticky my thread!

 

k.. i just read that its ok to use synthetic... but ill probably stick with mobile 1...
with all the oil talk... what about mixing 2cycle engine oil in?
i herd its good to do and lbricaits the seals better...

can some one elaborate on this or show me a link...
just used he search but dident get any hits...

by the way with oil's does the rx7 matter
fc fd fb?

 

dude, start at page one of this thread, and read what "icemark" said.. smart guy he is

 

well after reading this thread im going to running 20-50 in my 1991 i just picked up.

 

People put 2-stroke oil in their tank in a practice known as "premixing"

The 13b has a metering oil pump that squirts oil directly into the housings keeping the rotor seals lubed and it comes directly from the oil pan. This oil is not collected and is burned in the combustion cycle. Some people disable their oil metering pump. One less thing to worry about failing on you provided you keep up with the premixing. Premixing saves on sump consumption, you just have to remember to mix in the right amount of 2-stroke oil when you fill up at the pump.

I'm new to rotor engines but i'm learning more and more daily and dont think i'll ever stop learning about this unique engine.

If i were to decide which oil to use (synthetic or mineral) i would base it off of whether or not i'm using the m.o.p. or not.

Mineral oil burns alot better than synthetic. If you're on stock oiling, i recommend regular, if you're premixing, use synthetic since it wont be burned in the combustion chamber. I wonder if anyone has done any tests on a rotary with both setups tested over the same amount of time and then a teardown to compare wear and carbon buildup. I wonder which would be cleaner.

As far as my personal car, i'm doing a full change after i fix a pan leak using dirt *** cheap 10w40 advanced auto brand oil. I use a pure one filter though....always. Pure one filters are cheaper and actually filter your oil where as fram filters you're paying extra for the orange paint they put on it. They dont filter worth a **** either. I wish i could find the website where they tested all the common oil filters on the market but fram was on the bottom of the list.

 

so, nopistons, did you take the time to read through the whole thread? icemark has some friggin awsome info about conventional vs synthetic..

 

I have been using castrol 10w-30 but after reading this post, ill switch to 20w-50 ... or what would be better with a single turbo conversion?

 

i run royal purple and i noticed a smoother ride

 

What, did you fill your shocks with it?

 

teehee.... well put!

 

That is clearly incorrect. As covered earlier, the majority of synthetics burn just as clean and at or under 500F (considerably lower than the actual combustion temp of a piston engine, well alone the sometimes 1800F of a rotary engine).

There are quite a few conventional mineral oils (many of valvoline and havoline products) that actually burn with considerably more residue and ash than 99% of the synthetic oils out there.

Both Ted (Reted on this board) and I have done that, ripping apart motors with anywhere from 50K to 150K, and seen the differences between engines that have been pre-mixed their whole life, or used conventional oils, or have used synthetic oils their whole life. Both of us have been working on rotary engines since the 70's.

Premixed motors used with synthetic oils will generally have the least amount of wear in both the rotor housings and the bearing surfaces.

Worst wear with be with non pre-mixed motors with low weight oils (such as conventional 5W20 or 5W30 oil use). You tend to see considerable accelerated bearing surface wear using those post 1990 Mazda recommended weights.

 

so wha would be the best oil to run in az it a dd to.

 

you guys run 20w 50? i thought they would be run on lighter oil. thanks for the tip

 

btw

"If i were to decide which oil to use (synthetic or mineral) i would base it off of whether or not i'm using the m.o.p. or not."
what is MOP?

 

Castrol 20w-50 baby OLD SHCOOL, best ERL FOR THE ROTOR

 

im going to be running amsoil 10/30 ( im thinking of running 20/50 if i get the fd) and 75/90 in the tranny in a fd i might be geting and if i dont get it im going to put it in a 88 vert tii swap. no mop removal il llet you know how i do. and fyi if you havnt knowticed the lack of mobil oil on the shelves its because they currently do not meet the sae standards for car warrantys there useing a grad 3 base insted of their previous grade 4 to save prodution cost. correctme if im wrong i work for valvoline and they tend to be bias.... valvoline il is good but is def not my first choice

 

if you read the whole post it tells you...

like ice said for 30 + weather 20-50 weight of what ever you want, if your looking for a good band that has been tested READ THE WHOLE POST.

 

thickness effects ur fuel mileage and ive always used synthetic.Royal purple is what i put in my mustang,and my spec-v.

 

but i mean like the brand

 

ok, so lets go into premix. icemark, you said that the supertech oil will sufice, how about the penzoil synthetic? it's ashless, and meets the tc-w3 and the nmma req's.

but now, how much do i use every time, if i keep the omp?

 

If the penzoil meets all the requirements that icemark stated, it should suffice.

The bottle will tell you how much to mix with each gallon of gas. The Idemitsu Synthetic blend premix I use says .5oz for every gallon.

Why would you want to run premix if you are keeping the mop? If you are afraid that the mop might fail, just disconnect it. It's safer, and you wont waste money burning double the amount of oil you need. So just run premix, with no mop.

 

Read Alldaybored's whole post, especially the part I put in bold.

 

yeah, if you're suggesting that i'm the one that reads the thread, ive done that. at least 4 times. but, premix was not discussed in depth from icemark.

and i'm searching the forum for premix threads, and only learning that people can't seem to stick to the subject of the thread.

so, i'll be cutting the omp out of the pic, and running premix.

and would it be so bad for me to keep the omp and premix?

 

I posted two separate post. 1st one to you, 2nd to philly101. I was suggesting to philly101 to read the whole thread, not you.

No, it would not be so bad to use both, but I would worry about carbon build up from burning so much oil. I'm not an expert, so this may not be a concern at all, but I was always told there is such a thing as too much of a good thing. It just doesn't make sense to me that you would want to run premix with the mop/omp. Using premix kinda defeats the purpose of running the omp. Both will lube the seals, but premix is a surefire way to ensure the seals are getting oil. You don't have to worry about the omp failing, so why use it at all if you are premixing? Premix will oil the seals just fine without the omp.

Hope this helps,
Jeff

 

hhhmmmm. thanks, jeff. i'm just wanting to be a little over protective of this new motor that i'm getting. so i'm thinking about running like 1/2 oz/gal just because i'm hard on engines. and my newer motor is a turbo.

that carbon buildup shouldn't affect the turbine, does it? i wouldn't think so since there's others that do straight pre-mix.