not running right
#1
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hey i've got an 87 t2 and the fuel injectors are stuck open. i know this because when i pull the spark plugs the trailing plugs are literally wet. it looks like #1 rotor isn't firing at all, but the leading plug in #2 rotor has soot and is dry. it runs, but really rough. and puts out a lot of smoke. the guy i bought it from said he messed with the wiring and messed it up, so it could need a new wiring harness. it's got compression in all six chambers, and spark in both rotors as well. so i think the cold start injector is poring even more fuel in the #1 rotor and thats why.
Questions:
-which rotor is the cold start injector on?
-if i buying a new wiring harness will that fix the problem?
-anyone want to sell me a s5 spoiler?
-anyone want to sell me a turbo II wiring harness?
-does anyone know if there are bolt on turbo upgrades, i mean a better turbo,fro cheaper?
anyone live in the portland Gresham area want to come help me out?
Questions:
-which rotor is the cold start injector on?
-if i buying a new wiring harness will that fix the problem?
-anyone want to sell me a s5 spoiler?
-anyone want to sell me a turbo II wiring harness?
-does anyone know if there are bolt on turbo upgrades, i mean a better turbo,fro cheaper?
anyone live in the portland Gresham area want to come help me out?
#2
There's no cold start injector. You have 2 primary injectors and 2 secondaries. During startup, both primaries (1 per rotor) will fire according to the ECU's startup map. The secondaries will only fire when the motor is under load at 3800+ RPM, so unless the previous owner wired them inline with the primaries, they should not be active.
Inspect the four injector plugs (you will need to unbolt the upper intake manifold & throttlebody and remove it as 1 piece). Make sure they have not been cut or modified. Also, check the injector wiring at the ECU (passenger side kick panel). The FSM emissions control section (Pages 4B-31 to 4B-33) will show you which pins are for the + injector connections. The pins you want are 3C, 3E, 3F & 3H. The wire colors will be G, G/B, G/R, G/W. I would test for continuity as well as inspecting them for modifications.
http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g..._turbo.pdfwill
Inspect the four injector plugs (you will need to unbolt the upper intake manifold & throttlebody and remove it as 1 piece). Make sure they have not been cut or modified. Also, check the injector wiring at the ECU (passenger side kick panel). The FSM emissions control section (Pages 4B-31 to 4B-33) will show you which pins are for the + injector connections. The pins you want are 3C, 3E, 3F & 3H. The wire colors will be G, G/B, G/R, G/W. I would test for continuity as well as inspecting them for modifications.
http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g..._turbo.pdfwill
#3
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To answer your question about bolt on turbos, I mean it really doesn't just bolt on, your going to want to make sure the flange is the same, make sure you car can handle the boost, yadda yadda yadda. There's really no such thing as buy a bigger turbo and go. But GReddy has an upgrade kit for your car. Get ready to shell out the big bucks: http://greddy.com/products/display/?...SubCategory=16
Also, if you decide to get another motor, a supercharger would be cool, camden makes them for the n/a 13b, check them out.
Also, if you decide to get another motor, a supercharger would be cool, camden makes them for the n/a 13b, check them out.
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