No spark problems
10-20-08, 02:14 AM
#1
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No spark problems
Hey guys thanks in advanced for the help. I have spent the past week reading up and trying to diagnose my 88 rx7. I finally decided its time to ask the experts. So here goes nothing.
I started testing by first taking the leading L1 spark plug wire and attaching it to a brand new plug (brand new wires as well). I tried grounding it to the frame and also the ground terminal on the battery. No spark. I then tested the y/b wire going into the leading coil. I got 12v. I also tested the g/b? (sorry cant remember the color) And it was getting a pulse. But still no spark. From this it makes me think something is wrong with my leading coil or ignitor. I then disconnected the battery and tested the resistance for my coil. From what i read as long as its under 1 ohm it is good. It shows 0 on my ohm meter. Is that normal?
I then made a noob mistake. I saw a weird black wire attached to the wire harness for the coil. I had the ignition on and went to ground it, As soon as the wire grounded my car backfired. I dropped the wire and the connection was lost. I later found out that weird wire was for a tach I believe. After that I no longer get 12v from the b/y wire. I still get a pulse from the g/b. Any ideas what i blew? I looked forever for the fuse box and i found a fuse panel by my clutch. all the fuses in there looked fine. As well as the fuse box between two igniter/coils.
One other thing. Is it possible to use the trailing ignitor to test the connections for my leading ignitor? I was thinking i could disconnect the trailing coil/ignitor then use a temporary connection and use the pulse from the leading ignitor to fire get the trailing ignitor to spark. Is this a bad idea?
Once again please forgive me for my lack of knowledge. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am so excited I finally got an RX7 ( even if my wife doesn't understand). Now just to get her running
Thanks,
Clancey
I started testing by first taking the leading L1 spark plug wire and attaching it to a brand new plug (brand new wires as well). I tried grounding it to the frame and also the ground terminal on the battery. No spark. I then tested the y/b wire going into the leading coil. I got 12v. I also tested the g/b? (sorry cant remember the color) And it was getting a pulse. But still no spark. From this it makes me think something is wrong with my leading coil or ignitor. I then disconnected the battery and tested the resistance for my coil. From what i read as long as its under 1 ohm it is good. It shows 0 on my ohm meter. Is that normal?
I then made a noob mistake. I saw a weird black wire attached to the wire harness for the coil. I had the ignition on and went to ground it, As soon as the wire grounded my car backfired. I dropped the wire and the connection was lost. I later found out that weird wire was for a tach I believe. After that I no longer get 12v from the b/y wire. I still get a pulse from the g/b. Any ideas what i blew? I looked forever for the fuse box and i found a fuse panel by my clutch. all the fuses in there looked fine. As well as the fuse box between two igniter/coils.
One other thing. Is it possible to use the trailing ignitor to test the connections for my leading ignitor? I was thinking i could disconnect the trailing coil/ignitor then use a temporary connection and use the pulse from the leading ignitor to fire get the trailing ignitor to spark. Is this a bad idea?
Once again please forgive me for my lack of knowledge. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am so excited I finally got an RX7 ( even if my wife doesn't understand). Now just to get her running
Thanks,
Clancey
10-21-08, 11:07 PM
#4
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1) main relay (does it click?)
2) 40A EGI fuse (easy enough)
3) 12v at the black/yellow wire at the leading ignitor/coil connector
4) .8v timing signal at the green/yellow wire, same connector
5) good metal-to-metal ground between the coil pack & the chassis
6) CAS input signals to the ECU
7) good plug grounds on the engine (clean threads)
2) 40A EGI fuse (easy enough)
3) 12v at the black/yellow wire at the leading ignitor/coil connector
4) .8v timing signal at the green/yellow wire, same connector
5) good metal-to-metal ground between the coil pack & the chassis
6) CAS input signals to the ECU
7) good plug grounds on the engine (clean threads)
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