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Old 08-02-09 | 04:15 PM
  #1  
shadetreesvc's Avatar
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ShadeTree Service
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6
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From: Clayton, NC
No go when hot

82 GSL 12a

I've done a lot searching and checked many factors.
After a good warmup and taching up to 6500 no prob, all of the sudden power quits. Pumping pedal, engine acts like fuel pump can't keep up. Replaced pump, filter, removed tank. Blew lines. Tank professionally reconditioned inside and out. Gas cap off.

At loss of power turn the key off coasting down the road, wait a few seconds, roll start, tach back to 6500 at will, for a moment, then losss of power again.

Crazy. I'm lost

Ruled out cats, because runs good after a few seconds of being shutdown.
Old 08-03-09 | 09:57 PM
  #2  
wildman88's Avatar
wildman88

 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9
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From: Clayton NC
vapor lock? trash in Carb? It's gotta have a relay somewhere getting hot and shuting down. Have you check the wiring diagram all the way to the key?
Old 08-09-09 | 04:43 PM
  #3  
shadetreesvc's Avatar
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ShadeTree Service
 
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Clayton, NC
No I haven't. But I have torn the car apart to look at the circuit to the fuel pump but I haven't checked it yet. I too think wiring may be the issue.

Possibly fuse box. I looked over the wiring diagram for a fusible link in the fuel pump circuit but there is none. No relay either. Like the power windows, I'm thinking excessive arcing in the circuit could have burned a spot where voltage is irregular.

BTW, Wildman88, the pump I bought for the mazda pushes at 5 psi. Factory is high 3's to low 4's. Is this something to be concerened about? The issue I'm having occurred with both pumps, so I think it is not a factor for now but wondered what the implications of 1 psi might be.

Thanks for the reply.
Old 08-10-09 | 01:16 PM
  #4  
old_skool's Avatar
you know you want this
 
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: inside
choke sticking?
Old 08-16-09 | 09:01 AM
  #5  
shadetreesvc's Avatar
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ShadeTree Service
 
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Clayton, NC
Can't beleive it ran

Wildman88, check this pic.

All the rust you see here came from the screens in the banjos.

I assume it's from the supply line after the filter rusting.

The car still doesn't run right but it is a little better after cleaning this out.

I'll check the screens at the jets next. I'm not familiar with this carb though. Have you done this?

What do you think? Rebuild or rats nest removal/new carb?
Attached Thumbnails No go when hot-003.jpg  
Old 08-16-09 | 02:23 PM
  #6  
wildman88's Avatar
wildman88

 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9
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From: Clayton NC
get a carb kit and open it up. you will have some trash in the bowls and they could be gettin the jet or needle and causing some of your problem. Kit may be it CQ or try T-Hoff off of capital at peace st. by the city garage in raleigh. make sure they check world pac for the kit at CQ.
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