No go when hot
#1
No go when hot
82 GSL 12a
I've done a lot searching and checked many factors.
After a good warmup and taching up to 6500 no prob, all of the sudden power quits. Pumping pedal, engine acts like fuel pump can't keep up. Replaced pump, filter, removed tank. Blew lines. Tank professionally reconditioned inside and out. Gas cap off.
At loss of power turn the key off coasting down the road, wait a few seconds, roll start, tach back to 6500 at will, for a moment, then losss of power again.
Crazy. I'm lost
Ruled out cats, because runs good after a few seconds of being shutdown.
I've done a lot searching and checked many factors.
After a good warmup and taching up to 6500 no prob, all of the sudden power quits. Pumping pedal, engine acts like fuel pump can't keep up. Replaced pump, filter, removed tank. Blew lines. Tank professionally reconditioned inside and out. Gas cap off.
At loss of power turn the key off coasting down the road, wait a few seconds, roll start, tach back to 6500 at will, for a moment, then losss of power again.
Crazy. I'm lost
Ruled out cats, because runs good after a few seconds of being shutdown.
#3
No I haven't. But I have torn the car apart to look at the circuit to the fuel pump but I haven't checked it yet. I too think wiring may be the issue.
Possibly fuse box. I looked over the wiring diagram for a fusible link in the fuel pump circuit but there is none. No relay either. Like the power windows, I'm thinking excessive arcing in the circuit could have burned a spot where voltage is irregular.
BTW, Wildman88, the pump I bought for the mazda pushes at 5 psi. Factory is high 3's to low 4's. Is this something to be concerened about? The issue I'm having occurred with both pumps, so I think it is not a factor for now but wondered what the implications of 1 psi might be.
Thanks for the reply.
Possibly fuse box. I looked over the wiring diagram for a fusible link in the fuel pump circuit but there is none. No relay either. Like the power windows, I'm thinking excessive arcing in the circuit could have burned a spot where voltage is irregular.
BTW, Wildman88, the pump I bought for the mazda pushes at 5 psi. Factory is high 3's to low 4's. Is this something to be concerened about? The issue I'm having occurred with both pumps, so I think it is not a factor for now but wondered what the implications of 1 psi might be.
Thanks for the reply.
#5
Can't beleive it ran
Wildman88, check this pic.
All the rust you see here came from the screens in the banjos.
I assume it's from the supply line after the filter rusting.
The car still doesn't run right but it is a little better after cleaning this out.
I'll check the screens at the jets next. I'm not familiar with this carb though. Have you done this?
What do you think? Rebuild or rats nest removal/new carb?
All the rust you see here came from the screens in the banjos.
I assume it's from the supply line after the filter rusting.
The car still doesn't run right but it is a little better after cleaning this out.
I'll check the screens at the jets next. I'm not familiar with this carb though. Have you done this?
What do you think? Rebuild or rats nest removal/new carb?
#6
get a carb kit and open it up. you will have some trash in the bowls and they could be gettin the jet or needle and causing some of your problem. Kit may be it CQ or try T-Hoff off of capital at peace st. by the city garage in raleigh. make sure they check world pac for the kit at CQ.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post