New Rx7--Please read and comment
#41
A good used main pulley shouldn't be much. Watch the 3rd Gen. Parts for Sale section or PM a member named Fritz Flynn. He's a well known and reliable source of used parts. If he's got one it'll be priced fairly. If you don't have any luck PM me. I MAY have one, but I'd need to look through a half dozen boxes and with my work schedule, it might take a while.
And at the risk of being insulting....remember, you do NOT to need to mess with the hub bolt. Just the four 10 mm bolts holding the pulley. I mention this only because some fail to miss the obvious. Sorry.
Also, just so you know, the pulley comes in two sections plus the trigger wheel. There's only one way that it will go on...correctly. Again, the FSM is your friend.
IIRC the FSM specifies minimum oil pressure at 3000 rpm is 55 psi. If you're using the stock sender, IMO you could have probably kept the stock gauge. Just keep the connection clean. Occasionally a new sender is needed. But your right, oil pressure is also influenced by fuel dilution (which is common), the viscosity rating of the oil you put in and it's temperature. You'll also typically see fuel dilution a little quicker as it turns colder because the car will idle richer longer. Not a big deal, but one reason why recommended oil change intervals are a little closer.
And at the risk of being insulting....remember, you do NOT to need to mess with the hub bolt. Just the four 10 mm bolts holding the pulley. I mention this only because some fail to miss the obvious. Sorry.
Also, just so you know, the pulley comes in two sections plus the trigger wheel. There's only one way that it will go on...correctly. Again, the FSM is your friend.
IIRC the FSM specifies minimum oil pressure at 3000 rpm is 55 psi. If you're using the stock sender, IMO you could have probably kept the stock gauge. Just keep the connection clean. Occasionally a new sender is needed. But your right, oil pressure is also influenced by fuel dilution (which is common), the viscosity rating of the oil you put in and it's temperature. You'll also typically see fuel dilution a little quicker as it turns colder because the car will idle richer longer. Not a big deal, but one reason why recommended oil change intervals are a little closer.
#42
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From: Farmville, VA (central)
Thank you for the breath of fresh air. Really it means a lot. I'll check the smaller bolts if that's not it ill get up with fritz again. Once I change the oil ill take notes of oil pressure at different milage.
If you don't mind can you take a look at the photo I took of the port on the driver side of the engine that seems to be venting oil. It's making a mess and I don't know if I should cap it off or route it to and oil catch can.
If you don't mind can you take a look at the photo I took of the port on the driver side of the engine that seems to be venting oil. It's making a mess and I don't know if I should cap it off or route it to and oil catch can.
#45
#46
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From: Farmville, VA (central)
center iron, its tucked away. go down from the trottle body then to the left. if you pass the top end of the spark plug wires youve gone too far, its just above the motor's stamp (follow the hard line from under the trottle body down). ill post a video of getting to it if needed.
Last edited by Killacamster; 10-15-12 at 01:44 PM.
#50
Sorry Killacamster, I haven't remembered to check my car to be sure when I had the chance recently. I'm not certain, but I just don't remember having that port on my car. The only speculation I can come up with is for the PCV, but checking the 93 FSM it only shows the port on the filler neck. But the only thing worse than no information is the wrong information, so I was reluctant to post even that.
If you don't have any luck soon I'll PM a couple guys and give them a link to this.
If you don't have any luck soon I'll PM a couple guys and give them a link to this.