new to rotaries. Advice on maintenance
09-10-12, 05:48 PM
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new to rotaries. Advice on maintenance
I just picked up a 86 RX7 project for 1k. It's got 200k miles. I've gota put a gas tank and a brake line in the car but it's got a new pump, injectors and clutch master/slave. I was told (but have no proof and cant visually tell since the car sat) that the engine was replaced before being parked. I plan to make it into a fun car since most of the guys I work with have 240s that are modified and I'd like to defend rotary powered RX. I'm curious what basics I should look into such as enhancing the cooling system, etc. I'd like to convert it to a turbo2 but i'm not quite sure what parts i'll need. There's a local junkyard with a 90 model turbo2 i've been stripping body parts from. The turbo is still there. Injectors and intercooler are gone. I cant seem to get much info on the engine module and wiring if I even need it? What would be a recommendation on the apex seals for a good combination of being able to beat it but be reliable. It wont be my daily but i dont wana be pulling the engine every weekend due to a puked up apex seal lol
Last edited by misterstyx69; 09-10-12 at 09:44 PM.
09-10-12, 11:48 PM
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I thought this was going to be an 'advice on maintenance'.
not 'how do i maek kar fast?'
anyway, you're going to need to start at the simple stuff. Sparkplugs, wires, filters (air, fuel), all the fluids (including gear oil, diff oil, brake flid, coolant).
Don't use synthetic in the crankcase, there's 100 threads that talk about that.
Most people mix a bit of 2 cycle oil in the fuel tank as extra insurance in case the OMP fails, or has already failed. 200:1 is good if the OMP is in working order, 100:1 if it's not on the car at all...
As for the bits to make your car a turboII... you might as well call an engine importer and just get the engine, wiringharness, all the intake bits/turbo/manifold and ecu and give the car and pallet-o-crap to a shop.
EVERYTHING is different. Engine, intake, ecu, wiringharness, brakes, clutch, transmission, driveline, differential, etc, etc.
There's a reason running n/a cars sell for 1000-2500 and running turbo cars sell for 3000-6000.
As far as modifications go to your n/a car, here are my suggestions (applies only to areas without emissions standards), Racingbeat full racing exhaust. Header to muffler.
pineapple racing 5th/6th port sleeves,
emissions delete, including smog pump and egr valve
springs, shocks and swaybars, decent tires (all-season tires are not decent)
and a wideband o2 sensor and a chip, or a full standalone fuel management system to uncork that last bit of power that the stock ecu can't get out of the crap listed above.
That should bring you from 125-140 car to 150-175hp at the wheels.
Not THAT impressive, but that should keep you from blowing it up in a week.
Things you SHOULD NOT DO: Delete the stock airbox, it has more filter-area than just about any aftermarket filter you can buy, and it has a scoop for pulling in as cold of air as you're going to find.
lower your car too much, the rear axle has a weird-*** passive rear wheel steering and you'll eat tires like cookie monster eats cookies, that and your front suspension will decide to go full-retard on you and make positive camber when you apply weight. not cool.
delete your 5th/6th ports, they're there to give you low-end torque, not to sap top-end power, deleting the will just make your car slower off the line, and no faster at the top end.
not 'how do i maek kar fast?'
anyway, you're going to need to start at the simple stuff. Sparkplugs, wires, filters (air, fuel), all the fluids (including gear oil, diff oil, brake flid, coolant).
Don't use synthetic in the crankcase, there's 100 threads that talk about that.
Most people mix a bit of 2 cycle oil in the fuel tank as extra insurance in case the OMP fails, or has already failed. 200:1 is good if the OMP is in working order, 100:1 if it's not on the car at all...
As for the bits to make your car a turboII... you might as well call an engine importer and just get the engine, wiringharness, all the intake bits/turbo/manifold and ecu and give the car and pallet-o-crap to a shop.
EVERYTHING is different. Engine, intake, ecu, wiringharness, brakes, clutch, transmission, driveline, differential, etc, etc.
There's a reason running n/a cars sell for 1000-2500 and running turbo cars sell for 3000-6000.
As far as modifications go to your n/a car, here are my suggestions (applies only to areas without emissions standards), Racingbeat full racing exhaust. Header to muffler.
pineapple racing 5th/6th port sleeves,
emissions delete, including smog pump and egr valve
springs, shocks and swaybars, decent tires (all-season tires are not decent)
and a wideband o2 sensor and a chip, or a full standalone fuel management system to uncork that last bit of power that the stock ecu can't get out of the crap listed above.
That should bring you from 125-140 car to 150-175hp at the wheels.
Not THAT impressive, but that should keep you from blowing it up in a week.
Things you SHOULD NOT DO: Delete the stock airbox, it has more filter-area than just about any aftermarket filter you can buy, and it has a scoop for pulling in as cold of air as you're going to find.
lower your car too much, the rear axle has a weird-*** passive rear wheel steering and you'll eat tires like cookie monster eats cookies, that and your front suspension will decide to go full-retard on you and make positive camber when you apply weight. not cool.
delete your 5th/6th ports, they're there to give you low-end torque, not to sap top-end power, deleting the will just make your car slower off the line, and no faster at the top end.
09-12-12, 06:45 AM
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I thought this was going to be an 'advice on maintenance'.
not 'how do i maek kar fast?'
anyway, you're going to need to start at the simple stuff. Sparkplugs, wires, filters (air, fuel), all the fluids (including gear oil, diff oil, brake flid, coolant).
Don't use synthetic in the crankcase, there's 100 threads that talk about that.
Most people mix a bit of 2 cycle oil in the fuel tank as extra insurance in case the OMP fails, or has already failed. 200:1 is good if the OMP is in working order, 100:1 if it's not on the car at all...
As for the bits to make your car a turboII... you might as well call an engine importer and just get the engine, wiringharness, all the intake bits/turbo/manifold and ecu and give the car and pallet-o-crap to a shop.
EVERYTHING is different. Engine, intake, ecu, wiringharness, brakes, clutch, transmission, driveline, differential, etc, etc.
There's a reason running n/a cars sell for 1000-2500 and running turbo cars sell for 3000-6000.
As far as modifications go to your n/a car, here are my suggestions (applies only to areas without emissions standards), Racingbeat full racing exhaust. Header to muffler.
pineapple racing 5th/6th port sleeves,
emissions delete, including smog pump and egr valve
springs, shocks and swaybars, decent tires (all-season tires are not decent)
and a wideband o2 sensor and a chip, or a full standalone fuel management system to uncork that last bit of power that the stock ecu can't get out of the crap listed above.
That should bring you from 125-140 car to 150-175hp at the wheels.
Not THAT impressive, but that should keep you from blowing it up in a week.
Things you SHOULD NOT DO: Delete the stock airbox, it has more filter-area than just about any aftermarket filter you can buy, and it has a scoop for pulling in as cold of air as you're going to find.
lower your car too much, the rear axle has a weird-*** passive rear wheel steering and you'll eat tires like cookie monster eats cookies, that and your front suspension will decide to go full-retard on you and make positive camber when you apply weight. not cool.
delete your 5th/6th ports, they're there to give you low-end torque, not to sap top-end power, deleting the will just make your car slower off the line, and no faster at the top end.
not 'how do i maek kar fast?'
anyway, you're going to need to start at the simple stuff. Sparkplugs, wires, filters (air, fuel), all the fluids (including gear oil, diff oil, brake flid, coolant).
Don't use synthetic in the crankcase, there's 100 threads that talk about that.
Most people mix a bit of 2 cycle oil in the fuel tank as extra insurance in case the OMP fails, or has already failed. 200:1 is good if the OMP is in working order, 100:1 if it's not on the car at all...
As for the bits to make your car a turboII... you might as well call an engine importer and just get the engine, wiringharness, all the intake bits/turbo/manifold and ecu and give the car and pallet-o-crap to a shop.
EVERYTHING is different. Engine, intake, ecu, wiringharness, brakes, clutch, transmission, driveline, differential, etc, etc.
There's a reason running n/a cars sell for 1000-2500 and running turbo cars sell for 3000-6000.
As far as modifications go to your n/a car, here are my suggestions (applies only to areas without emissions standards), Racingbeat full racing exhaust. Header to muffler.
pineapple racing 5th/6th port sleeves,
emissions delete, including smog pump and egr valve
springs, shocks and swaybars, decent tires (all-season tires are not decent)
and a wideband o2 sensor and a chip, or a full standalone fuel management system to uncork that last bit of power that the stock ecu can't get out of the crap listed above.
That should bring you from 125-140 car to 150-175hp at the wheels.
Not THAT impressive, but that should keep you from blowing it up in a week.
Things you SHOULD NOT DO: Delete the stock airbox, it has more filter-area than just about any aftermarket filter you can buy, and it has a scoop for pulling in as cold of air as you're going to find.
lower your car too much, the rear axle has a weird-*** passive rear wheel steering and you'll eat tires like cookie monster eats cookies, that and your front suspension will decide to go full-retard on you and make positive camber when you apply weight. not cool.
delete your 5th/6th ports, they're there to give you low-end torque, not to sap top-end power, deleting the will just make your car slower off the line, and no faster at the top end.
and change your oil often
09-12-12, 11:00 AM
#4
If you can get the turbo II for dirt cheap, just buy the whole car. Like what chris said, EVERYTHING is different. Aaron cake has a write-up about how to swap from N/A to turbo. http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/naturbo.htm
09-12-12, 01:51 PM
#5
That's to convert a 6-port NA engine to turbo, which should never be done on a tight budget.
Swapping a TII engine into an NA chassis is well covered in the 2nd gen FAQ. The most detailed thread is also in my sig. Mixing parts between series (ie S5 engine into an S4 car) will also require extra work on your part.
Swapping a TII engine into an NA chassis is well covered in the 2nd gen FAQ. The most detailed thread is also in my sig. Mixing parts between series (ie S5 engine into an S4 car) will also require extra work on your part.
09-12-12, 03:00 PM
#6
That's to convert a 6-port NA engine to turbo, which should never be done on a tight budget.
Swapping a TII engine into an NA chassis is well covered in the 2nd gen FAQ. The most detailed thread is also in my sig. Mixing parts between series (ie S5 engine into an S4 car) will also require extra work on your part.
Swapping a TII engine into an NA chassis is well covered in the 2nd gen FAQ. The most detailed thread is also in my sig. Mixing parts between series (ie S5 engine into an S4 car) will also require extra work on your part.
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