Fuel pressure was fine. Notice in my last post I stated that I set the pressure and rerouted the feed and return lines correctly, and rewired the S5 clips correctly. The engine ran until it popped at 5K rpm and it makes an odd knocking sound that I think is a blown apex seal on the front rotor. As for the FPR it reads up to about 110-120psi

IF the apex seal on the front rotor is blown, can I disassemble the engine and replace the rotor with one of my rotors with good apex seals from one of my spare engines and reassemble the engine without having to buy a master rebuild kit. Or should I spend $500 to buy a 13B-REW with blown coolant seals and just replace the coolant seals and drop it in with my Haltech E6x with FC harness? Cause at this point I've got three engines:

13B S4 from 88 Vert: Unknown condition

13B S4 from my 88 GXL: Blown coolant seals and housings separated from center iron when compression built up.

13B S4 from junkyard 86 base: currently installed in 88 GXL and what this thread is all about.

 

Same issues - what has been mentioned aboved fixed my issue.

 

That's great and all but now I can't get the engine to start at all and it's making noise that wasn't there before the pop/ backfire. I had it running for about 20 seconds and revved it higher to kick on the secondaries to see if it would hold or sputter, it popped/ backfired and died. My friend said the tach read 5,000rpm when it backfired. Now it won't start and sounds like something is clanking around in the engine- Refer to the second video taken at night for sound.

Someone commented on my youtube and said it's a blown apex seal. Does anyone agree?

If it is a blown apex seal, can I pull my other engines apart find a good rotor with good seals and use that as a replacement or should I buy KIT A from AtkinsRotary and do a full rebuild using the best parts from all three engines?

 

unfortunately that motor sounds like it bit the dust. uneven cranking speeds are an easy indicator that compression is falling flat on one or more rotor faces, likely a whole chamber with how it sounds.

the REW will need custom mounts and turbo kit to fit.

i'd just build one motor from the 2nd gen cores you have without trying to go cheap reusing the old 3 piece apex seals which are all likely very worn by now anyways.

you don't need a master kit but you will need all the basics: soft seal kit, gasket kit, F+R main seals, corner seal plugs, REW corner seal springs, oil seal o-rings, apex seal springs, side seal springs, etc etc etc. minimum of about $500 in parts for a basic kit.

you will most likely need a rotor and housing from one of the other motors, i'm betting when the seal let go in that engine it took the rotor and housing with it.

 

Masin up here in Phoenix does rebuilds.

 

Awesome, thanks for the help Karack, I'll start tearing the engines apart as soon as I have a place to do it, and keep everyone up to date. Can I streetport the engine without using a stand alone or should I go ahead and use my Haltech.

 

Ok, do you know how much they charge and where exactly they're located?

 

If you're confident, careful, and knowledgeable... You can rebuild it.

These may help -> Aaron Cake's 13B Engine Rebuild Video and Free Factory Service Manuals

 

street port is fine with either the stock ECU or the haltech.

 

For the 13B-REW swap I know I'd need the mounts but what if it's a complete engine with twin turbos and intercooler, manifolds, etc.

 

Would the stock ECU be fine for a mild or large streetport or does it not matter as long as it's only streetporting?

 

check all the vacumm lines, it usually a problem.

 

you may get it to fit but you will need to custom fabricate a downpipe to clear the frame rail. you will also want to install the haltech with the REW since it's a bit of a pain to set up the stock REW wiring into an FC.

for the stock ECU with 2nd gen motor, any streetport will work with the stock ECU. bridgeports are where it starts to get sketchy.

 

I did a vacuum and emissions delete, I've only got three vacuum lines that are being used for the boost sensor, regulator and EGR until I get the EGR blockoff plate. Engine is blown and will be rebuilt, as previously stated and explained

 

^ You still have your MOP, right?... The vacuum spider needs a vacuum source, too.

 

Awesome, and thanks again Karack. I'll keep you up to date in a build/rebuild thread once I get the parts ordered or start tearing down the engines.

 

The OMP isn't working and I'm running premix anyway since it's easier than buying a new one, but I might find a good one to put in for the rebuild. And the delete I did completely removed the vacuum spider. I had a few bad solenoids too I think, and all the vacuum lines were either hardened or cracked and split.

 

Once I have the engine rebuilt how should I go about breaking in the engine? Preferably a proper way if there is such thing. Does it change depending on if it's stock or ported?

Does Streetporting involve exhaust ports and intake ports or only exhaust? I can't find an intake porting blueprint on Atkins Rotary but I found the RB exhaust blueprint.