need help ASAP
08-03-12, 08:14 PM
#1
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need help ASAP
Ok, I had the car running well, and it all the sudden is idling at around 4k and has NO POWER. If I. Mess with anything enough to get it to idle lower, it just dies. Someone please call or text me asap @ 478.319.9935. If I don't have this car running Monday, I'm out of a job.
08-20-12, 07:59 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
Put the idle settings back to where they were and check for a huge vacuum leak.
And it helps to post what car your asking questions about (88 FC) so we don't have to go to your profile.
And it helps to post what car your asking questions about (88 FC) so we don't have to go to your profile.
Still having issues and plAnning a meet where i provide beer and food for those who wanna help me.
Yeah... 1988 FC.
08-20-12, 09:35 AM
#4
Check the throttle cable, cruise control cable to see if they are forcing the throttle plates to open. Forcing the throttle linkage, located at the front of the throttle body, upwards would help to close the plates some if there was something such as a cable causing it to open thus causing the idle to drop. Check the AFM flapper to see that it's not stuck open. Also, check the Thermowax, located at the rear of the throttle body, to see if the rod extends from it while the car warms up. If it does not extend and press against the upside down screw then the idle will remain fairly high.
08-20-12, 01:28 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by satch
Check the throttle cable, cruise control cable to see if they are forcing the throttle plates to open. Forcing the throttle linkage, located at the front of the throttle body, upwards would help to close the plates some if there was something such as a cable causing it to open thus causing the idle to drop. Check the AFM flapper to see that it's not stuck open. Also, check the Thermowax, located at the rear of the throttle body, to see if the rod extends from it while the car warms up. If it does not extend and press against the upside down screw then the idle will remain fairly high.
EDIT: I will check the afm flapper and report back.
Also, it seems my fuel gauge is not functioning properly, and my factory tach is not functioning. Which makes me wonder if my autometer tach is reading properly....
Please remember all mods are prior to my ownership, I did nothing but purchase the car.
Last edited by The_Fox; 08-20-12 at 01:33 PM.
08-21-12, 07:15 PM
#7
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08-22-12, 06:56 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
I hope you still have your job.
Did you check timing yet?, to see that someone didn't just slap the CAS in and not tighten it?
Did you check timing yet?, to see that someone didn't just slap the CAS in and not tighten it?
EDIT: Gotta find my damn timing light though. And i just got done moving. Yippee! :P
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08-22-12, 06:57 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by satch
If the idle has to be maintained at a very high idle to prevent the car from stalling then you probably have a vacuum leak.
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08-22-12, 07:10 AM
#11
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A vacuum leak can be caused by many things.Bad gasket,broken hose,etc.
If you can get a can of Starter fluid,Try running the engine and spraying a little bit at points on the engine,like hose connections,manifold to manifold spots.
The "theory" behind this is that,when sprayed the vacuum leak, it will suck in the starter fluid and you should notice the Revs pick up.
When that happens you have found the leak area.
Do not spray at the Exhaust!!!..
(and I am NOT responsible if your car lights up and goes poof!)
08-22-12, 02:01 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
I'd take you up on the 6 pack,but I would have to fly from Canada to the US to get it.
A vacuum leak can be caused by many things.Bad gasket,broken hose,etc.
If you can get a can of Starter fluid,Try running the engine and spraying a little bit at points on the engine,like hose connections,manifold to manifold spots.
The "theory" behind this is that,when sprayed the vacuum leak, it will suck in the starter fluid and you should notice the Revs pick up.
When that happens you have found the leak area.
Do not spray at the Exhaust!!!..
(and I am NOT responsible if your car lights up and goes poof!)
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08-22-12, 02:20 PM
#13
Obviously there are LOT's of potential places for a vac leak, but idling at 4k and no power makes me think your's might be pretty large...and hopefully easier to find. I had something similar last year and found it with one of those mechanic's mirrors-on-a-stick and a small but bright flashlight.
This might help give you an idea of where to look too. Note vacuum nipple locations:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-arch...ctures-259406/
This might help give you an idea of where to look too. Note vacuum nipple locations:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-arch...ctures-259406/
08-22-12, 08:56 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by zeaKz
If thats the case then I would have two cars. One for reliable transportation for work or school. The second for pleasure or anything else. I know civics are lame but they are cheap and one of the most reliable.
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08-27-12, 08:37 PM
#18
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maybe your MAF is busted, or its possible the valves are held open by carbon build up. take brake cleaner and take off your fuel injectors, fuel rail, throttle body, spay and use a wire brush and clean everything, then, check your TPS and make sure thats operating properly. simple and cheap things you can do to find tune the diagnosis. hope it helps
08-29-12, 07:26 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by shorty1408
maybe your MAF is busted, or its possible the valves are held open by carbon build up. take brake cleaner and take off your fuel injectors, fuel rail, throttle body, spay and use a wire brush and clean everything, then, check your TPS and make sure thats operating properly. simple and cheap things you can do to find tune the diagnosis. hope it helps
I hate doing that but oh well. Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club
