na-t on $900???
#1
na-t on $900???
Does it sound feasible to have a running na-t s5 GTU on $900 dollars? I don't really want to put too many stock parts on. Ill probably use a SAFC to tune a little until I can afford a real ems again. I would like to just have it run boost considering it's my DD. I figure around $400 for a turbo, if I can't bolt it onto a stock t2 mani then I might just buy a cheapie on ebay for the time being. If I can't get a turbo with an internal wastegate then I plan on using a godspeed 38mm, as they come with a warranty and are under $100. I have an intercooler from my turbo 280z so that's not a problem. I can find t2 injectors fairly cheap. I have an MSD inline fuel pump. The only thing I'm not too sure about is the intake manifold, my intercooler comes in one side and out the other. My car being a GTU a t2 intake mani wont fit correctly. Is there another way to have my TB on the drivers side of the car? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Steve.
Steve.
#2
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I think you're seriously underestimating the amount of work you are in for in order to do this properly.
A wastegate for under $100? Do you really think it would be a quality piece?
An S-AFC to tune a high compression turbo rotary will mean a blown engine.
See the 2nd gen FAQ for plenty of info on how to turbo the NA.
Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo?
Yes, check these links:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=26647
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm
What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7?
There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them.
Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits:
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88540
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88758
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=124232
http://users2.ev1.net/~ccoutts/turbo..._a_project.htm
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694
Turbo-NA Forum:
http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/forum...urbocharged+NA
A wastegate for under $100? Do you really think it would be a quality piece?
An S-AFC to tune a high compression turbo rotary will mean a blown engine.
See the 2nd gen FAQ for plenty of info on how to turbo the NA.
Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo?
Yes, check these links:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=26647
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm
What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7?
There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them.
Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits:
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88540
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88758
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=124232
http://users2.ev1.net/~ccoutts/turbo..._a_project.htm
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694
Turbo-NA Forum:
http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/forum...urbocharged+NA
#3
I think you're seriously underestimating the amount of work you are in for in order to do this properly.
A wastegate for under $100? Do you really think it would be a quality piece?
An S-AFC to tune a high compression turbo rotary will mean a blown engine.
See the 2nd gen FAQ for plenty of info on how to turbo the NA.
Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo?
Yes, check these links:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=26647
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm
What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7?
There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them.
Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits:
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88540
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88758
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=124232
http://users2.ev1.net/~ccoutts/turbo..._a_project.htm
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694
Turbo-NA Forum:
http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/forum...urbocharged+NA
A wastegate for under $100? Do you really think it would be a quality piece?
An S-AFC to tune a high compression turbo rotary will mean a blown engine.
See the 2nd gen FAQ for plenty of info on how to turbo the NA.
Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo?
Yes, check these links:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=26647
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm
What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7?
There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them.
Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits:
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88540
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88758
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=124232
http://users2.ev1.net/~ccoutts/turbo..._a_project.htm
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694
Turbo-NA Forum:
http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/forum...urbocharged+NA
Steve.
#4
get all the s5 turbo stock pieces(hard parts and electronics) and swap everything on your S5 NA,you need to port the lower T2 manifold in order to fit the stock 6 port block and get some custom lines for the oil and coolant return and feed hoses,if you look hard enough you may have a chance to get all the parts to do this for less than 900 bucks but is not the right way to do it,and old tired NA motor is not up to the task to run boost same thing with the driveline and rear end,it can be done but is your call
#5
get all the s5 turbo stock pieces(hard parts and electronics) and swap everything on your S5 NA,you need to port the lower T2 manifold in order to fit the stock 6 port block and get some custom lines for the oil and coolant return and feed hoses,if you look hard enough you may have a chance to get all the parts to do this for less than 900 bucks but is not the right way to do it,and old tired NA motor is not up to the task to run boost same thing with the driveline and rear end,it can be done but is your call
I have a T4, FMIC, still need stock turbo injectors(or larger). My engine is by no means tired. It came from an old lady driven 64,000 mile car. It has great compression and starts up everytime with no problems. The driveline however has 100,000 on it. Everything still feels good though. So, as long as I port the t2 mani it will bolt on? I really appreciate you input. Thanks for the info.
Steve.
#6
yep get a S5 TURBO LIM with the S5 TURBO UIM,T-body,elbow,S5 TURBO fuel rail,T2 gas pedal cable and your done with the intake side of the motor(remember you need to port the lower mani in order to fit the block)now if you have T4 TURBO you are gonna need a aftermarket manifold,wastegate,injectors,custom lines and a way to control the motor other that the stcok T2 ecu.
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#8
You're begging for advice, then when when you are offered some by one of the more learned second gen guys on the forum, and you didn't like what you heard, you spit in his face. That's a very good way to ensure you don't receive help in the future.
But you are a stranger to turboing N/A rotarys and you are a stranger to tuning turbo rotarys. If you had all the answers, you wouldn't be begging for help. Aaron is right though. on a $900 budget, you're going to get nowhere fast on this project.
The wastegate is one of the most crucial pieces of any turbo setup. If it breaks, you lose your motor. I thought you were a turbo guy? You want to risk losing your motor to save $100 at the most?
Rotarys are very touchy. They don't like cheap parts, they don't like overboost, and they have a bad rep because of people just throwing things at the car like it's an eclipse or something.
Rotarys are very touchy. They don't like cheap parts, they don't like overboost, and they have a bad rep because of people just throwing things at the car like it's an eclipse or something.
#9
I by no means spit in his face. I am also by no means begging for anything. I also recall thanking him for his response.... I'm asking. As far as the $900 that's why I was asking. I mean no disrespect to anybody. If I came off as an *******, I do apologize. As far as the wastegate, I'm willing to give the godspeed a chance. It's warrantied. I'm only running 7.6 psi. I trust godspeed. I've had no problems with any of their products in the past. Have you had any bad experiences with them or heard anything bad about their stuff?
Last edited by linchpin360; 10-26-08 at 01:16 PM.
#10
The wastegate is one of the most crucial pieces of any turbo setup. If it breaks, you lose your motor. I thought you were a turbo guy? You want to risk losing your motor to save $100 at the most?
Rotarys are very touchy. They don't like cheap parts, they don't like overboost, and they have a bad rep because of people just throwing things at the car like it's an eclipse or something.
Boost creep is an issue that's readily fixed by using an appropriate sized wastegate and exhaust. On a stock turbo, you can port the exhaust housing and wastegate port (maybe switching to a bigger flapper as well) to get rid of creep.
When you do tune your car, always tune it on the rich side for safety. A couple of guys i've talked to about doing this to my motor STRONGLY insisted i do this and use r-tek, halltech or msns and not an afc. Another guy i talked to is making 280hp on 87 octane right now at 6psi, again tuning on the rich side. No meth/alk/water injection either. Runs like a champ. Not sure what his ignition timing is at but i'll ask him next time i speak to him.
If you want to run a cheapy wastegate, by all means do so. I know they work just as good as their expensive counterparts. You can turbo on a budget. It's never really costs alot as long as you take your time and shop smart. My last project went WAY overbudget because i had turbos that wouldnt' fit my manifold and then i had turbos break and then i had turbos that were damn near impossible to clock because of the snap ring and my off the shelf ring pliars. I also ended up with alot of parts i didnt even end up using and some parts got ruined/stolen by fabricators.
People gave me the same **** about my hks knock off blow off valve calling it a noisy boost leak. It never leaked boost. My wastegate was set at 7 psi, take away 1 psi loss through the intercooler and piping and i had 6 psi. Never creeped, never spiked, never dropped off and i didn't have an mbc either. I guess said people didn't know about the set screw in the back to adjust the valve tension.
The only thing i suggest is if you buy an ebay manifold, check the weld penetration and add braces where necessary. Some guys have good luck with them as they are. Others are stuck cracking them after a few runs and re-welding them over and over and over again. These were on piston engines and bottom mount manifolds with medium t3/t4's. The weight of a t4 on two runners plus the stress of the exhaust, wastegate weight and intense rotary heat does not have me dumping money into my paypal account to scoop one up off of ebay. You could probably make your own. Head to www.turboflanges.com and get a t4 flange and some sched 40 piping (already cut to butt/root weld perfectly) and a racing beat or weir tech flange. If that's too much work/time....hks manifolds are fairly cheap at around $250 used and the best part about them is they wont crack.
As far as oil/water lines, i would use braided stainless all the way. I wouldn't trust anything else to withstand the high underhood temps under spirited driving.
#11
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,793
Likes: 119
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I'm not underestimating. I'm no stranger to turboing n/a cars. I'm also no stranger to tuning. I know that there is a lot of work to be done to do this right. I don't plan on this motor holding for that long. I have another motor to be rebuilt. As far as the wastegate; A. A wastegate is a wastegate. Even a cheap piece of **** from ebay would work.
Personally I'd never go with a no-name part on what is one of the more critical components of the car. If you want to save money, use an eBay BOV.
Their intercoolers work very well.
As far as I remember, didn't you use a SAFC to originally tune your car Aaron?
Really I just need to know if there is anyway to get my TB on the other side of the engine without making a custom piece.
Swap to a TII lower and upper (as already mentioned).
There is nothing you can bolt on without modification to swap throttle body around.
Will a stock t2 fit on and GTU? Thanks for the Response.
Steve.
Steve.
You need to space the manifold out 2.5" to clear the lower intake and remove the ACV and aux port actuators.
...or....
You need to space the turbo itself out with an adapter that goes between it and the manifold. You still need to loose the ACV and aux actuators.
...or...
You need to make a custom manifold, so you can place the turbo anywhere you want.
...or....
You need to modify the TII lower intake so it fits on the 6 port block, and use the complete TII intake setup. Now the turbo bolts right on and you can use any downpipe and intercooler setup made for the TII.
Those are your choices. Every one involves custom parts.
What kind of T4? You are aware that saying "T4" is like saying "turbo". So essentially you just said "I have a turbo,".
still need stock turbo injectors(or larger).
#12
I've seen engines wasted because of eBay wastegates. The materials used are nowhere near the quality you get from a good brand (ie. Tial). The shaft and bushing expand under heat, jamming them closed.
Personally I'd never go with a no-name part on what is one of the more critical components of the car. If you want to save money, use an eBay BOV.
It's hard to make a crappy intercooler. I have no issues with people using eBay intercoolers. I use one myself. They work fine. Sure, they may drop a slight bit more pressure then the brand name units but at 10% the cost you can just go one size larger.
Yes. However you are starting with an S5. The compression is higher and the ECU less forgiving. People have a hard enough time keeping S5 turbo-NA engines together with a standalone. I don't recall ever hearing of someone getting more then a few thousand KM out of an S5 turbo-NA engine running the stock ECU.
Modify the intercooler so the pipes exit the same side.
Swap to a TII lower and upper (as already mentioned).
There is nothing you can bolt on without modification to swap throttle body around.
A stock TII? Are you referring to the TII turbo? The short answer is that no, the HT-18 will not bolt to the S5 NA block without modifying something
You need to space the manifold out 2.5" to clear the lower intake and remove the ACV and aux port actuators.
...or....
You need to space the turbo itself out with an adapter that goes between it and the manifold. You still need to loose the ACV and aux actuators.
...or...
You need to make a custom manifold, so you can place the turbo anywhere you want.
...or....
You need to modify the TII lower intake so it fits on the 6 port block, and use the complete TII intake setup. Now the turbo bolts right on and you can use any downpipe and intercooler setup made for the TII.
Those are your choices. Every one involves custom parts.
What kind of T4? You are aware that saying "T4" is like saying "turbo". So essentially you just said "I have a turbo,".
Yes, you will need larger injectors. The fact that larger is in brackets as a secondary thought is worrisome.
Personally I'd never go with a no-name part on what is one of the more critical components of the car. If you want to save money, use an eBay BOV.
It's hard to make a crappy intercooler. I have no issues with people using eBay intercoolers. I use one myself. They work fine. Sure, they may drop a slight bit more pressure then the brand name units but at 10% the cost you can just go one size larger.
Yes. However you are starting with an S5. The compression is higher and the ECU less forgiving. People have a hard enough time keeping S5 turbo-NA engines together with a standalone. I don't recall ever hearing of someone getting more then a few thousand KM out of an S5 turbo-NA engine running the stock ECU.
Modify the intercooler so the pipes exit the same side.
Swap to a TII lower and upper (as already mentioned).
There is nothing you can bolt on without modification to swap throttle body around.
A stock TII? Are you referring to the TII turbo? The short answer is that no, the HT-18 will not bolt to the S5 NA block without modifying something
You need to space the manifold out 2.5" to clear the lower intake and remove the ACV and aux port actuators.
...or....
You need to space the turbo itself out with an adapter that goes between it and the manifold. You still need to loose the ACV and aux actuators.
...or...
You need to make a custom manifold, so you can place the turbo anywhere you want.
...or....
You need to modify the TII lower intake so it fits on the 6 port block, and use the complete TII intake setup. Now the turbo bolts right on and you can use any downpipe and intercooler setup made for the TII.
Those are your choices. Every one involves custom parts.
What kind of T4? You are aware that saying "T4" is like saying "turbo". So essentially you just said "I have a turbo,".
Yes, you will need larger injectors. The fact that larger is in brackets as a secondary thought is worrisome.
The godspeed wastegate isn't really an ebay wastegate. I'm just getting it from ebay beacause it's $50 cheaper to do so. The t4 is an OBX T04S... Before you guys start flaming me for going with OBX understand they come with a lifetime warranty. If it breaks and they dont fix it, it's just another life lesson. As far as the stock turbo injectors, I will only you them while I'm barely boosting until I rebuild my other motor and can afford it. By will the t2 fit, I did mean the stock t2 Intake mani. I have no problem porting it to fit. As far as the SAFC situation, I may wait to put the whole deal on my car until I can afford another MSNS-E. Thanks for your insight. I really do appreciate and respect you.
#13
I've never heard of a no name external wastegate getting stuck and destroying an engine. If it's that big of a deal, test it first. $65 shipped for a cdm (china domestic market) wasteget. Works fine. Like i said, my turbonetics evolution and my xs power 38mm were basically identical and reaction time was also identical with the same given air pressure. The only difference was my turbonetics wastegate said "turbonetics evo" on it. I'd be more worried about an internal gate sticking vs a cdm external. You can always inspect before install. If you dont like what you see, send it back and get a refund.
Boost creep is an issue that's readily fixed by using an appropriate sized wastegate and exhaust. On a stock turbo, you can port the exhaust housing and wastegate port (maybe switching to a bigger flapper as well) to get rid of creep.
When you do tune your car, always tune it on the rich side for safety. A couple of guys i've talked to about doing this to my motor STRONGLY insisted i do this and use r-tek, halltech or msns and not an afc. Another guy i talked to is making 280hp on 87 octane right now at 6psi, again tuning on the rich side. No meth/alk/water injection either. Runs like a champ. Not sure what his ignition timing is at but i'll ask him next time i speak to him.
If you want to run a cheapy wastegate, by all means do so. I know they work just as good as their expensive counterparts. You can turbo on a budget. It's never really costs alot as long as you take your time and shop smart. My last project went WAY overbudget because i had turbos that wouldnt' fit my manifold and then i had turbos break and then i had turbos that were damn near impossible to clock because of the snap ring and my off the shelf ring pliars. I also ended up with alot of parts i didnt even end up using and some parts got ruined/stolen by fabricators.
People gave me the same **** about my hks knock off blow off valve calling it a noisy boost leak. It never leaked boost. My wastegate was set at 7 psi, take away 1 psi loss through the intercooler and piping and i had 6 psi. Never creeped, never spiked, never dropped off and i didn't have an mbc either. I guess said people didn't know about the set screw in the back to adjust the valve tension.
The only thing i suggest is if you buy an ebay manifold, check the weld penetration and add braces where necessary. Some guys have good luck with them as they are. Others are stuck cracking them after a few runs and re-welding them over and over and over again. These were on piston engines and bottom mount manifolds with medium t3/t4's. The weight of a t4 on two runners plus the stress of the exhaust, wastegate weight and intense rotary heat does not have me dumping money into my paypal account to scoop one up off of ebay. You could probably make your own. Head to www.turboflanges.com and get a t4 flange and some sched 40 piping (already cut to butt/root weld perfectly) and a racing beat or weir tech flange. If that's too much work/time....hks manifolds are fairly cheap at around $250 used and the best part about them is they wont crack.
As far as oil/water lines, i would use braided stainless all the way. I wouldn't trust anything else to withstand the high underhood temps under spirited driving.
Boost creep is an issue that's readily fixed by using an appropriate sized wastegate and exhaust. On a stock turbo, you can port the exhaust housing and wastegate port (maybe switching to a bigger flapper as well) to get rid of creep.
When you do tune your car, always tune it on the rich side for safety. A couple of guys i've talked to about doing this to my motor STRONGLY insisted i do this and use r-tek, halltech or msns and not an afc. Another guy i talked to is making 280hp on 87 octane right now at 6psi, again tuning on the rich side. No meth/alk/water injection either. Runs like a champ. Not sure what his ignition timing is at but i'll ask him next time i speak to him.
If you want to run a cheapy wastegate, by all means do so. I know they work just as good as their expensive counterparts. You can turbo on a budget. It's never really costs alot as long as you take your time and shop smart. My last project went WAY overbudget because i had turbos that wouldnt' fit my manifold and then i had turbos break and then i had turbos that were damn near impossible to clock because of the snap ring and my off the shelf ring pliars. I also ended up with alot of parts i didnt even end up using and some parts got ruined/stolen by fabricators.
People gave me the same **** about my hks knock off blow off valve calling it a noisy boost leak. It never leaked boost. My wastegate was set at 7 psi, take away 1 psi loss through the intercooler and piping and i had 6 psi. Never creeped, never spiked, never dropped off and i didn't have an mbc either. I guess said people didn't know about the set screw in the back to adjust the valve tension.
The only thing i suggest is if you buy an ebay manifold, check the weld penetration and add braces where necessary. Some guys have good luck with them as they are. Others are stuck cracking them after a few runs and re-welding them over and over and over again. These were on piston engines and bottom mount manifolds with medium t3/t4's. The weight of a t4 on two runners plus the stress of the exhaust, wastegate weight and intense rotary heat does not have me dumping money into my paypal account to scoop one up off of ebay. You could probably make your own. Head to www.turboflanges.com and get a t4 flange and some sched 40 piping (already cut to butt/root weld perfectly) and a racing beat or weir tech flange. If that's too much work/time....hks manifolds are fairly cheap at around $250 used and the best part about them is they wont crack.
As far as oil/water lines, i would use braided stainless all the way. I wouldn't trust anything else to withstand the high underhood temps under spirited driving.
Steve.