linuslove

Hi. I am new to this site and registered years ago now finally need help from a knowledgable user with the same year and make car I have. I am the only owner and rarely have driven the car after the first few years that I put on a few 10ks each year, but always warmed it up through the year and took a mile or two drive. I know have 33k miles on it. It was regularly services during the first 5 years b Mazda dealerships. Never had a single problem with the car. This past winter I did NOT warm it up enough and the last few times I started it up several months ago it put out a little white smoke and then it cleared up. It got to a point where when I drove it it wanted to stall out and finally got to a point where I had to rev it so hard to keep it from stalling. Then it got to a point where it would not turn over. Cranks like new but will not turn over. Gas was down to a few gallons thank God so I asked around what to do. I used some STP additive to take out any water and clean any corrosion etc. still cranked, but did not turn over. The I was told Seafoam may do the trick. I used 8 ounces in the few gallons left in the tank and that almost made it start but it did not. Then I changed the 4 spark plugs using the correct original plugs and that did not start it. Then I figured I would get someone to change the fuel filter and I got the OE and we did that, primed it, still cranked beautifully and did not start up. Now I am clueless and I need help from someone. I do NOT know my car well and cars in general that well so if you can speak to me like a layman that would help. WHAT DO I DO NEXT? I read so much on the net but have no idea what to do next. I am David and you can always email me at Barnharlowi AT yahoo.com I feel that the fuel sitting is all that could have gone wrong, but why is it that with a new clean fuel filter it still is not starting. The person that helped put in the fuel filter confirmed he hears the fuel pump working. HELP PLEASE SOMEONE

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

No idea but... IRP is near you if you need a rotary specialist

IRPerformance | 55 Prospect Street, Metuchen, NJ 08840 Tel. (732) 662-1794

Rusta

Fuel, spark, air, and compression... Have you tried checking that you're getting spark to the plugs? Pull the plugs with wires attached and lay the plugs on the chassis somewhere to ground them. Don't hold them. Turn the car over and see if you are getting spark. It might be flooding, which they are prone to do easily. Turning the engine over without the plugs in helps de-flood. When you are cranking it, do you hold the throttle all the way down? Disconect the air intake to expose the throttlebody directly and try it. Maybe check the compression with a tester. I have a problem with mine that has lost compression from just sitting, and don't know why.

Best wishes to you... Hopefully it is something simple, although only frustrating.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Disconnect the fuel pump wiring and spray two seconds at most of starter fluid into the intake duct and start the car. If it starts for a few seconds before dying then you know you have spark. If the car refuses to at leat start up then you likely don't have spark.

linuslove

Hi. I am new to this site and registered years ago now finally need help from a knowledgable user with the same year and make car I have. I am the only owner and rarely have driven the car after the first few years that I put on a few 10ks each year, but always warmed it up through the year and took a mile or two drive. I know have 33k miles on it. It was regularly services during the first 5 years by Mazda dealerships. Never had a single problem with the car.

This past winter I did NOT warm it up enough and the last few times I started it up several months ago it put out a little white smoke and then it cleared up. It got to a point where when I drove it it wanted to stall out and finally got to a point where I had to rev it so hard to keep it from stalling.

Then it got to a point where it would not turn over. Cranks like new but will not turn over. Gas was down to a few gallons thank God so I asked around what to do. I used some STP additive to take out any water and clean any corrosion etc. still cranked, but did not turn over. The I was told Seafoam may do the trick. I used 8 ounces in the few gallons left in the tank and that almost made it start but it did not.

Then I changed the 4 spark plugs using the correct original plugs and that did not start it.

Then I figured I would get someone to change the fuel filter and I got the OE and we did that, primed it, still cranked beautifully and did not start up.

Now I am clueless and I need help from someone. I do NOT know my car well and cars in general that well so if you can speak to me like a layman that would help. WHAT DO I DO NEXT? I can do a lot so if you use layman terms I can do anything! I am great with my hands and had no problem changing spark plugs and the gas filter that a friend helped me with. I even found a link regarding the CPU and ran a line from the little green single outlet plugon ear the battery and grounded it and looked for any codes and on my panel no codes ever came up so I am capable if someone is knowledgeable to help me troubleshoot.

I read so much on the net but have no idea what to do next. I am David and you can always email me at Bartharlowi AT yahoo.com I feel that the fuel sitting is all that could have gone wrong, but why is it that with a new clean fuel filter it still is not starting. The person that helped put in the fuel filter confirmed he hears the fuel pump working. I put in another gallon of 93 octane V Power Shell gas yesetrday and it started! White smoke poured out that it was amazing for 5 minutes! BUT i had to keep it reved at like 4000 rpms to keep it from stalling. Then finally when i let it doen to 3000 rpms it stalled and I could not get it started again. HELP PLEASE SOMEONE

shorty1408

check injectors, have them tested and check to see if they are leaking or bad(always good to have them cleaned ultrasonically). check all vaccum lines, check fuel pressure, compression test. cheap and easy ways to narrow down the problem. hope this helps

linuslove

I did compression testing and all is OK! Is there a way I can do checking fuel pressure on my own and if so, HOW and what do I need? Is there a way I can check vacuum lines on my own and if so how? Thanks so much for your input! TRULY appreciated! Dave

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can rent a fuel pressure gauge and place it in line w/the fuel hose running into the engine. Placing it in line means one side of the gauge has a hose running to the fuel filter and the other side of the gauge runs to the engine.

If the engine is idling you can spray the hoses w/carburetor cleaner and if there is a vacuum leak then the idle will change noticeably.

linuslove

Thanks so much. Where would I rent a fuel pressure guage AND what pressure should I be getting for my particular car or should I look this up somewhere OR is it variation in pressure that is a problem?

satch

iTrader: (1)

An auto parts store would likely be a good idea. The fuel pressure specs are in the FSM. Should be close to 30 to 40 psi depending on the circumstances.

linuslove

Thanks Satch. I have a lot of work to do ver the next week on the car. Let's see what happens. I will do an oil change at the end of this week and hopefully a fuel pressure test as well to start. Will be in touch within a week. Again thanks for your help! Do appreciative of it! David

linuslove

Can someone give me details on HOW to check the injectors on my 1990 RX7 GXL? If you know of a video that would even be better. Hate to bother you allBUT I guess next step is to have the injecors cleaned.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

If you want to check your fuel injectors, you will have to bleed off any pressure in the fuel system, and take off the upper intake manifold. When you get it off, the injectors are clearly visible attached to the fuel rails. The cheap basic way to test the injectors is to apply 12 volts to it in an on and off manner and try to hear it clicking. If the injector clicks, it works but that doesnt tell you how well it works, you will have to clean and flow test it. To clean the injector you will have to send it off to a shop that specialize in injector cleaning such as

http://www.witchhunter.com/
or
Injector Cleaning

They will also send you a chart on how well the injector flows vs the stated flow.

For a car with 32k miles and rarely driven, I dont think the problem is the injectors.

linuslove

Hi..many thanks for the reply! I actually agree with you that with 32k it is probably NOT the fuel injectors. Maybe I should save that procedure for if something less does not work that I try. How about the fuel strainer attached to the fuel pump? Given that gas has sat time after time in the tank an it was never warmed up enough times through many winters, can that be an issue? Every time I run out and put 1 gallon of V power 93 0ctane in the car it does start just once and I can keep it from stalling by keeping the rpms at around 3500 or more. If I let it stay there for even 5-10 minutes and then lessen off on it, once it gets down to 1000 rpms the car shakes and then it stalls out on me! If I try to start it again, it may start one more time but usually it cranks and just turns over and then stalls. What are your thoughts if the car were ours? Given it has new plugs, new oil and oils filter, new gas filter and we know the fuel pump is working, what would you attack to trouble shoot.i already did the test where you ground that green plug near the battery and no codes came up for me. Awaiting another reply and I thank you so much.
David

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your primary injectors are likely clogged. As others have suggested, remove them and send them off to be cleaned.

linuslove

Thanks Satch. Do you think I should first check the fuel pump strainer/filter before I do this? Or are you or or less convinced it is the primary injectors from all you know about the case and close to sure that it's it the strainer regardless of gas sitting year after year and the car being warmed up and rarely driven?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The cost of replacing the fuel sock/strainer is rather cheap and less time consuming then pulling the primary injectors for cleaning purposes. Either way the fuel sock likely needs replacing.

linuslove

The gas tank is clean and the fuel sock is like new! All the things I did to the car(add a few gallons of new V Power 93 Octane Shell gas, oil and oil filter change, gas filter change, spark plug change allowed the car now to start at least, BUT I have determined I is an issue with the throttle body area. I know nothing about this area of the car, because I know there is a throttle sensor and some other sensor next to that throttle body. What do I do first that is easiest? I now starts and I still need to give it a ouch gas to keep it from stalling, BUT now sometimes it goes all the way down to almost 200 rpms and jumps back up to 2000 rpms and bounces around! What can I do first to check something that may need changing besides starting to search for a throttle body!? I appreciate your reply.
David

FMFwalsh

is it flooded?