Looking to get educated, need some input
04-29-12 | 06:04 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4
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From: Philadelphia
Looking to get educated, need some input
Hi guys,
I'm looking to get a 3rd gen rx-7 soon, but I'm trying to get as knowledgeable as possible before actually buying one. Initially, I want to keep power levels close to stock, save minor gains from reliability mods such as a downpipe; I doubt I'll be adding much power to the car for the first few years. As such, I've been researching like crazy for the past several days and have composed a spreadsheet of what my first ~$2500 will be spent on (it also helps me keep track of everything I've learned
).
Technically, the spreadsheet is in order with the Pettit downpipe being first, but realistically I'll be spending the ~$2500 all at once, so order is pretty irrelevant.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...WZhN3JSVFE5amc
I'm posting this here because I'd appreciate any constructive criticism on my choices. Whether it be regards to brand, modification, order, or anything, I'd love to hear it! Any other good reliability/preventative mods are welcomed too! =)
Thanks for your time.
I'm looking to get a 3rd gen rx-7 soon, but I'm trying to get as knowledgeable as possible before actually buying one. Initially, I want to keep power levels close to stock, save minor gains from reliability mods such as a downpipe; I doubt I'll be adding much power to the car for the first few years. As such, I've been researching like crazy for the past several days and have composed a spreadsheet of what my first ~$2500 will be spent on (it also helps me keep track of everything I've learned
).Technically, the spreadsheet is in order with the Pettit downpipe being first, but realistically I'll be spending the ~$2500 all at once, so order is pretty irrelevant.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...WZhN3JSVFE5amc
I'm posting this here because I'd appreciate any constructive criticism on my choices. Whether it be regards to brand, modification, order, or anything, I'd love to hear it! Any other good reliability/preventative mods are welcomed too! =)
Thanks for your time.
05-01-12 | 10:03 AM
#2
Nice start list...you could probably save money off retail by shopping around in the various rotary forums.
Downpipe (wrap it or coat it...will reduce you engine bay temps considerably)
Radiator (check other brands, Koyo, Griffin, etc...brand wont make too much diff here. Remember its not only the thickness of the core, but how you can get air to pass through it)
AST
Y pipe
Fluids and such are up to much debate...use what you feel comfortable with.
Plugs, some people go colder...some not...again...debatable
Gauges to me are luxury...if you don't really care about the Defi brand, you can find stuff for cheaper.
Hope my .02 helps at least .01
Downpipe (wrap it or coat it...will reduce you engine bay temps considerably)
Radiator (check other brands, Koyo, Griffin, etc...brand wont make too much diff here. Remember its not only the thickness of the core, but how you can get air to pass through it)
AST
Y pipe
Fluids and such are up to much debate...use what you feel comfortable with.
Plugs, some people go colder...some not...again...debatable
Gauges to me are luxury...if you don't really care about the Defi brand, you can find stuff for cheaper.
Hope my .02 helps at least .01
05-01-12 | 11:33 AM
#4
There are several great threads in the 3rd Gen FAQ Section specifically outlining what to do with $1000.
If you are buying the car, I'm guessing you have a compression test? Don't buy without it!
If you are insisting on going new...well that list is great. You could save a ton of money by buying quality used parts from reputable sellers (such as myself) in the FS Section of the site. Items I see where you could easily save money.
Downpipe: You can generally picked up a used one for $100. I prefer the HKS myself.
Aluminum AST: $80-$100 used.
Efini Y-Pipe: $150 used.
You've got almost $1000 or roughly 33% of your money going to a new gauge system including the "Mickey Mouse" pods. I'm the last person who would tell you not to buy what you want but one again...all items you can find used or there are more inexpensive options.
RX7Store Dropships some items from what I understand so you may wish to confirm that they actually have your item in stock before ordering.
Good luck...your list is off to a good start.
If you are buying the car, I'm guessing you have a compression test? Don't buy without it!
If you are insisting on going new...well that list is great. You could save a ton of money by buying quality used parts from reputable sellers (such as myself) in the FS Section of the site. Items I see where you could easily save money.
Downpipe: You can generally picked up a used one for $100. I prefer the HKS myself.
Aluminum AST: $80-$100 used.
Efini Y-Pipe: $150 used.
You've got almost $1000 or roughly 33% of your money going to a new gauge system including the "Mickey Mouse" pods. I'm the last person who would tell you not to buy what you want but one again...all items you can find used or there are more inexpensive options.
RX7Store Dropships some items from what I understand so you may wish to confirm that they actually have your item in stock before ordering.
Good luck...your list is off to a good start.
05-01-12 | 11:44 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Nice start list...you could probably save money off retail by shopping around in the various rotary forums.
Downpipe (wrap it or coat it...will reduce you engine bay temps considerably)
Radiator (check other brands, Koyo, Griffin, etc...brand wont make too much diff here. Remember its not only the thickness of the core, but how you can get air to pass through it)
AST
Y pipe
Fluids and such are up to much debate...use what you feel comfortable with.
Plugs, some people go colder...some not...again...debatable
Gauges to me are luxury...if you don't really care about the Defi brand, you can find stuff for cheaper.
Hope my .02 helps at least .01
Downpipe (wrap it or coat it...will reduce you engine bay temps considerably)
Radiator (check other brands, Koyo, Griffin, etc...brand wont make too much diff here. Remember its not only the thickness of the core, but how you can get air to pass through it)
AST
Y pipe
Fluids and such are up to much debate...use what you feel comfortable with.
Plugs, some people go colder...some not...again...debatable
Gauges to me are luxury...if you don't really care about the Defi brand, you can find stuff for cheaper.
Hope my .02 helps at least .01
As for the gauges, I chose Defi gauges because of their recording and warning light features, to me it's worth the extra $$.
I looked at other brand radiators and researched the koyo vs fluidyne debate on the forums for awhile (its amazing how many koyo vs fluidyne threads there are
) and decided on the fluidyne just because of how abnormally cheap it was on AbsoluteRadiator. I wasn't sure at first, but for $349 I figured why not.I'm planning on it!
There are several great threads in the 3rd Gen FAQ Section specifically outlining what to do with $1000.
If you are buying the car, I'm guessing you have a compression test? Don't buy without it!
If you are insisting on going new...well that list is great. You could save a ton of money by buying quality used parts from reputable sellers (such as myself) in the FS Section of the site. Items I see where you could easily save money.
Downpipe: You can generally picked up a used one for $100. I prefer the HKS myself.
Aluminum AST: $80-$100 used.
Efini Y-Pipe: $150 used.
You've got almost $1000 or roughly 33% of your money going to a new gauge system including the "Mickey Mouse" pods. I'm the last person who would tell you not to buy what you want but one again...all items you can find used or there are more inexpensive options.
RX7Store Dropships some items from what I understand so you may wish to confirm that they actually have your item in stock before ordering.
Good luck...your list is off to a good start.
If you are buying the car, I'm guessing you have a compression test? Don't buy without it!
If you are insisting on going new...well that list is great. You could save a ton of money by buying quality used parts from reputable sellers (such as myself) in the FS Section of the site. Items I see where you could easily save money.
Downpipe: You can generally picked up a used one for $100. I prefer the HKS myself.
Aluminum AST: $80-$100 used.
Efini Y-Pipe: $150 used.
You've got almost $1000 or roughly 33% of your money going to a new gauge system including the "Mickey Mouse" pods. I'm the last person who would tell you not to buy what you want but one again...all items you can find used or there are more inexpensive options.
RX7Store Dropships some items from what I understand so you may wish to confirm that they actually have your item in stock before ordering.
Good luck...your list is off to a good start.
Thanks for the heads up on the stock; I'll do that.
Thanks for the input so far, guys!
05-01-12 | 12:03 PM
#6
.....Looking to get educated, need some input ....
..... I'd appreciate any constructive criticism on my choices. Whether it be regards to brand, modification, order, or anything, I'd love to hear it! Any other good reliability/preventative mods are welcomed too! =)
Thanks for your time.
..... I'd appreciate any constructive criticism on my choices. Whether it be regards to brand, modification, order, or anything, I'd love to hear it! Any other good reliability/preventative mods are welcomed too! =)
Thanks for your time.
I'd make the following suggestions.....
*It's extremely rare that you will buy a FD with the pre-cat still on. So it's likely you won't have that cost. Really, the same is true with the boost and temp gauges, although they may not be as nice as what you've proposed.
*As mentioned above, brands are pretty opinionated. And ignore synthetic vs. standard petroleum arguments. REDLINE is fine for gear oil in the tranny and differential, but for "motor oil"?? FWIW if you want a good synthetic, you could get Mobil 1 or Royal Purple for half that. And the OEM filters are OK, but dealerships usually aren't conveniently located and mark-up can be rediculous. You just want a filter with a good gasket, good filter media and an anti-drain-back valve. Personally I've been happy with Purolator PUREONE. Buy them on sale at any neighborhood parts store.
*If you keep it at stock boost levels, stick with stock heat ranges. And your choice of NGK plugs and wires is right-on. FWIW I've tried the more expensive platinum versions and they didn't seem to last any longer.
*Consider upgrading the OEM IC with a better stock-mount. Some to consider are BLITZ; KNIGHT SPORT; GREDDY and PFS (w/the PFS intake). I believe the first three will work with the stock airbox, the PFS comes with it's own good intake box and K & N. Any SMIC is only as good as the duct.
*Speaking of the stock airbox...it can be modified for next to nothing to source ambient air from the nose instead of scavaging it from the intercooler duct. If you're not good at fabbing, PM a member named adamc. He sells a "cheap bastard" kit. And tell him I sent ya.
*I usually like to keep things as they were designed. But with my choice of SMIC, deleting the AST was sort of forced on me. Doing it CORRECTLY, I have had absolutely NO issues or regrets, and removed some points of failure along the way. Again, a search will give you more info.
A little more advanced for the new owner but something to read about........
*Consider a simple boost-activated Auxillary Water Injection system. There's a section dedicated to it with stickys that explain the value and advantages. I don't claim to be an authority, but if you want info on a relatively inexpensive but effective and low-key system you can search under my name for posts and a thread.
*Consider a fast reacting IAT and when possible relocate it in front of the throttle-body. Search for more info in the 3rd Gen. Section.
05-01-12 | 01:57 PM
#7
A little more advanced for the new owner but something to read about........
*Consider a simple boost-activated Auxillary Water Injection system. There's a section dedicated to it with stickys that explain the value and advantages. I don't claim to be an authority, but if you want info on a relatively inexpensive but effective and low-key system you can search under my name for posts and a thread.
*Consider a fast reacting IAT and when possible relocate it in front of the throttle-body. Search for more info in the 3rd Gen. Section.
*Consider a simple boost-activated Auxillary Water Injection system. There's a section dedicated to it with stickys that explain the value and advantages. I don't claim to be an authority, but if you want info on a relatively inexpensive but effective and low-key system you can search under my name for posts and a thread.
*Consider a fast reacting IAT and when possible relocate it in front of the throttle-body. Search for more info in the 3rd Gen. Section.
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05-01-12 | 02:58 PM
#8
Can Post Only in New Member Section
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: connville
reduce engine light
I have had my car put on a computer and it tells me that I need a new fan clutch, but my temp is not a problem what else could it be. I will be driving down the road and a single on dash goes off and the reduced engine light comes on
05-01-12 | 04:09 PM
#9
05-01-12 | 05:10 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
It sounds like you've already done some homework and your ahead of the vast majority.
I'd make the following suggestions.....
*It's extremely rare that you will buy a FD with the pre-cat still on. So it's likely you won't have that cost. Really, the same is true with the boost and temp gauges, although they may not be as nice as what you've proposed.
*As mentioned above, brands are pretty opinionated. And ignore synthetic vs. standard petroleum arguments. REDLINE is fine for gear oil in the tranny and differential, but for "motor oil"?? FWIW if you want a good synthetic, you could get Mobil 1 or Royal Purple for half that. And the OEM filters are OK, but dealerships usually aren't conveniently located and mark-up can be rediculous. You just want a filter with a good gasket, good filter media and an anti-drain-back valve. Personally I've been happy with Purolator PUREONE. Buy them on sale at any neighborhood parts store.
*If you keep it at stock boost levels, stick with stock heat ranges. And your choice of NGK plugs and wires is right-on. FWIW I've tried the more expensive platinum versions and they didn't seem to last any longer.
*Consider upgrading the OEM IC with a better stock-mount. Some to consider are BLITZ; KNIGHT SPORT; GREDDY and PFS (w/the PFS intake). I believe the first three will work with the stock airbox, the PFS comes with it's own good intake box and K & N. Any SMIC is only as good as the duct.
*Speaking of the stock airbox...it can be modified for next to nothing to source ambient air from the nose instead of scavaging it from the intercooler duct. If you're not good at fabbing, PM a member named adamc. He sells a "cheap bastard" kit. And tell him I sent ya.
*I usually like to keep things as they were designed. But with my choice of SMIC, deleting the AST was sort of forced on me. Doing it CORRECTLY, I have had absolutely NO issues or regrets, and removed some points of failure along the way. Again, a search will give you more info.
A little more advanced for the new owner but something to read about........
*Consider a simple boost-activated Auxillary Water Injection system. There's a section dedicated to it with stickys that explain the value and advantages. I don't claim to be an authority, but if you want info on a relatively inexpensive but effective and low-key system you can search under my name for posts and a thread.
*Consider a fast reacting IAT and when possible relocate it in front of the throttle-body. Search for more info in the 3rd Gen. Section.
I'd make the following suggestions.....
*It's extremely rare that you will buy a FD with the pre-cat still on. So it's likely you won't have that cost. Really, the same is true with the boost and temp gauges, although they may not be as nice as what you've proposed.
*As mentioned above, brands are pretty opinionated. And ignore synthetic vs. standard petroleum arguments. REDLINE is fine for gear oil in the tranny and differential, but for "motor oil"?? FWIW if you want a good synthetic, you could get Mobil 1 or Royal Purple for half that. And the OEM filters are OK, but dealerships usually aren't conveniently located and mark-up can be rediculous. You just want a filter with a good gasket, good filter media and an anti-drain-back valve. Personally I've been happy with Purolator PUREONE. Buy them on sale at any neighborhood parts store.
*If you keep it at stock boost levels, stick with stock heat ranges. And your choice of NGK plugs and wires is right-on. FWIW I've tried the more expensive platinum versions and they didn't seem to last any longer.
*Consider upgrading the OEM IC with a better stock-mount. Some to consider are BLITZ; KNIGHT SPORT; GREDDY and PFS (w/the PFS intake). I believe the first three will work with the stock airbox, the PFS comes with it's own good intake box and K & N. Any SMIC is only as good as the duct.
*Speaking of the stock airbox...it can be modified for next to nothing to source ambient air from the nose instead of scavaging it from the intercooler duct. If you're not good at fabbing, PM a member named adamc. He sells a "cheap bastard" kit. And tell him I sent ya.
*I usually like to keep things as they were designed. But with my choice of SMIC, deleting the AST was sort of forced on me. Doing it CORRECTLY, I have had absolutely NO issues or regrets, and removed some points of failure along the way. Again, a search will give you more info.
A little more advanced for the new owner but something to read about........
*Consider a simple boost-activated Auxillary Water Injection system. There's a section dedicated to it with stickys that explain the value and advantages. I don't claim to be an authority, but if you want info on a relatively inexpensive but effective and low-key system you can search under my name for posts and a thread.
*Consider a fast reacting IAT and when possible relocate it in front of the throttle-body. Search for more info in the 3rd Gen. Section.
I'll look into the Mobil 1 and the fuel filters, especially if they're cheaper
You've given me a lot of stuff to research, thanks! I read up a lot on the AST vs No AST debate and decided to just replace the tank because I figure I shouldn't **** with it if I don't have to, but I'll have to re-evaluate that decision if it interferes with any mods; what was your IC and how did the AST affect its fitment?
Thanks for taking the time to respond!
05-01-12 | 09:06 PM
#12
As for your prospective car, it's a beaut. If it really is that low mileage and "bone stock" you may need the DP and gauges afterall...but that's OK. The DP and gauges would be the ONLY mods I do to it for at least the first year. You'll be surprised on how much you will learn about the car in the mean time.
05-01-12 | 10:02 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Changes to spreadsheet so far:
- Added Idemitsu premix after researching the subject more (I don't mind the premium for it)
- Changed motor oil to Mobil 1 15W50
- Changed to Purolator PureOne Oil Filter (Not sure if using taller MX-6 model is worth it; thoughts?) & Fuel Filter
I'm still not sure what I want the ultimate setup of the intercooler to be; I really like the idea of V-mount but I haven't researched the subject enough to actually know what it entails. I guess I'll make my decision regarding the AST once I've sorted that out.
If I do end up with a really mint rx-7 similar to the one I linked you, I probably will end up modding it slower. I would still get major reliability mods, like silicone hoses and such, done as soon as possible, though. However, if I end up with one with higher miles I'll probably have less restraint.
- Added Idemitsu premix after researching the subject more (I don't mind the premium for it)
- Changed motor oil to Mobil 1 15W50
- Changed to Purolator PureOne Oil Filter (Not sure if using taller MX-6 model is worth it; thoughts?) & Fuel Filter
Generally I agree with that philosophy. I run a PFS SMIC. Great IC, very good duct. But the design and the location of the mounting bracket was meant for the triangular shape of the stock AST...which I didn't feel was a realistic option. The round AST wouldn't mount properly so I was sort of forced to delete it. I was careful to do it properly and as it turned out it's all been good. No need to dirty the thread with it but IIRC there's a picture of the PFS in my album if you go to my profile page.
As for your prospective car, it's a beaut. If it really is that low mileage and "bone stock" you may need the DP and gauges afterall...but that's OK. The DP and gauges would be the ONLY mods I do to it for at least the first year. You'll be surprised on how much you will learn about the car in the mean time.
As for your prospective car, it's a beaut. If it really is that low mileage and "bone stock" you may need the DP and gauges afterall...but that's OK. The DP and gauges would be the ONLY mods I do to it for at least the first year. You'll be surprised on how much you will learn about the car in the mean time.
If I do end up with a really mint rx-7 similar to the one I linked you, I probably will end up modding it slower. I would still get major reliability mods, like silicone hoses and such, done as soon as possible, though. However, if I end up with one with higher miles I'll probably have less restraint.
05-04-12 | 04:23 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
More updates!
- Changed my gauge setup completely. After researching brands extensively, I decided to go with STRI gauges for the features/accuracy I want at a reasonable price.
- I researched auxiliary water injection as per Sgtblue's suggestion and liked the benefits it offered. I decided on the Coolingmist stage 1 system w/ M5 injectors, but I'm still unsure about tank location. For now, the default plan is rear wiper fluid tank, although I'm concerned about its size.
- Decided on a V-mount setup later down the line, so radiator/IC upgrades are delayed until then.
- Reorganized list a little, just because I have too much time
Would appreciate any input on these new choices. Thanks!
- Changed my gauge setup completely. After researching brands extensively, I decided to go with STRI gauges for the features/accuracy I want at a reasonable price.
- I researched auxiliary water injection as per Sgtblue's suggestion and liked the benefits it offered. I decided on the Coolingmist stage 1 system w/ M5 injectors, but I'm still unsure about tank location. For now, the default plan is rear wiper fluid tank, although I'm concerned about its size.
- Decided on a V-mount setup later down the line, so radiator/IC upgrades are delayed until then.
- Reorganized list a little, just because I have too much time
Would appreciate any input on these new choices. Thanks!
05-06-12 | 09:39 AM
#15
That generally works out well since I don't like running below 1/4 tank of gas....I just fill up at the same time. But I'm toying with the idea of using a rear window tank with a line and simple 'T' fitting to augment the capacity.
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