Hello beloved rotary community, I come to you for help.

First some background information, I have a 1988 RX7 N/A with 56,xxx miles, Racing Beat true dual exhaust header to mufflers, and a modified blitz air intake to work with the S4 MAF.

I have performed an emissions removal to clean up the look of the engine an since I live in MN, where we don't test emissions. I followed this tutorial to a tee and am having problems. BTW I used the block off kit from Banzai Racing.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html

So, the car started fine no smoke, no hick ups or anything, I read that it would be normal to have to use the throttle to keep the engine running while the fuel line refill, then I would want to adjust the idle to a bit higher to prevent it from dying under accessory load, but I can't seem to do this. I kept my foot on the throttle at 2000 rpm until it got up normal operational temperature, then if I let go it dies.

I tried to adjust the throttle position sensor using the tester I got from Banzai Racing and the little adjuster bolt thing on top of the dynamic chamber, but nothing changes anything. I can't smell unburnt fuel from the exhaust but it pops on the over-run, it starts up just fine after it dies so I don't think its flooding.

Am I missing something obvious or skipping a step? One thing I did notice as I removed the old fuel line from the fuel filter, the tube coming off the filter was bent forwards, I think that's how it was but I could have bent it when removing the line, It doesn't seem bent enough for it to be pinched but also doesn't look natural, just an observation.

This is my project car so it doesn't need to be running ASAP but I do wonder what is wrong?

 

Have you adjusted the variable resistor or bypass screw on top of the throttle body yet? The first adjusts mixture to smooth out idle, and the second increases idle speed. Since you probably removed the BAC valve, you'll no longer have that extra bit of air coming in to increase idle speed to something manageable. If you still can't get it high enough with the screw fully backed out, you can also adjust the throttle stop screw to increase cold idle speed. All of these procedures are mentioned in the FSM and Haynes manuals.

If none of this helps, you may have just introduced a vacuum leak.

 

I got the idle to hold at about 600 rpm after adjusting the idle speed to the max, and further helped its "smoothness" with that resistor. As per your suggestion I have forced the throttle to hold at about 800-1000 with that adjustable bolt, but I do hear a distinct whisp of air coming from the front of the engine bay. To my knowledge I didn't unplug or cap anything in that area. Any other insight to your collective knowledge.

 

You can try the 'carb cleaner trick' and spray some around any suspect areas. If idle speed increases, there is a vacuum leak nearby.

 

just an update, there must've been an air leak somewhere because I went back and re-checked everything and it works fine now.

however I believe I am still running quite rich, as illustrated by my spark plugs and smell of gas from from the exhaust