HP Question
12-31-08, 10:53 AM
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HP Question
I'm pretty new to this stuff, but I have an 86 GXL and I want to up the horsepower. I have about 1200 to spend and I was thinking cool air intake, new exhaust and upgrade the spark plugs. Anyone's thoughts? How much will this help?
01-01-09, 12:01 PM
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I'd say put the money into fixing the car and making the suspension decent before you ever worry about making more power. $800 is going to get you a nice exhaust, which is the single most important item in making power out of the NA. Realistically, it's not likely you will get the car over 200HP in NA form. At first this doesn't sound fun, but with a nice exhaust note and a good suspension, it's a lot of fun.
01-01-09, 08:13 PM
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I'd say put the money into fixing the car and making the suspension decent before you ever worry about making more power. $800 is going to get you a nice exhaust, which is the single most important item in making power out of the NA. Realistically, it's not likely you will get the car over 200HP in NA form. At first this doesn't sound fun, but with a nice exhaust note and a good suspension, it's a lot of fun.
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01-01-09, 09:37 PM
#9
Exhaust: High Grade Header and full exhaust: 1000+
Motor: Streetported, S5 Rotating Assembly: circa $600
-> Getting it rebuilt: circa $1500
Standalone ECU: Anywhere from 750 - 1200
Various odds and ends: 200-750
Some of the cost comes from whether you want to run a 6 port or a 4 port.
Motor: Streetported, S5 Rotating Assembly: circa $600
-> Getting it rebuilt: circa $1500
Standalone ECU: Anywhere from 750 - 1200
Various odds and ends: 200-750
Some of the cost comes from whether you want to run a 6 port or a 4 port.
01-01-09, 10:18 PM
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Exhaust: High Grade Header and full exhaust: 1000+
Motor: Streetported, S5 Rotating Assembly: circa $600
-> Getting it rebuilt: circa $1500
Standalone ECU: Anywhere from 750 - 1200
Various odds and ends: 200-750
Some of the cost comes from whether you want to run a 6 port or a 4 port.
Motor: Streetported, S5 Rotating Assembly: circa $600
-> Getting it rebuilt: circa $1500
Standalone ECU: Anywhere from 750 - 1200
Various odds and ends: 200-750
Some of the cost comes from whether you want to run a 6 port or a 4 port.
01-02-09, 03:48 AM
#12
Cheapest, most effecient way to easily hit 200+ hp is with a Turbo II swap. You still don't have enough money, unless you can source parts cheaply and do all the work yourself. There are some who've turboed their NA, that's going to take a lot of research and reading.
01-02-09, 05:23 PM
#13
A 2.5" catless exhaust & S5 intake manifold swap w/ electronic VDI can get you around ~160whp, which is about 200 at the flywheel. You can get this done for under $1000 too.
That enough for you? It'll be pretty quick still since the '86 GXL only weighs about 2700 lbs.
That enough for you? It'll be pretty quick still since the '86 GXL only weighs about 2700 lbs.
01-03-09, 10:21 AM
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With only $1200 to spend, fix any little problems with the car and then look at the suspension. $1200 will get you a nice set of shocks and springs. Get some good tires on there as well and you'll have a car that feels like new.
Then put your money aside and save up for a bit if you want to start stepping up the power.
01-05-09, 12:00 PM
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I'm with Aaron on this one, my 88 GXL is a BLAST, and it has the KYB AGX shocks, suspention tech lowering springs, rims and fierce HP rubber. And for power the iApexi N1 catback (although its a catless system) bonez intake and thats about it. I am considering getting a TII engine, as long as i will not have wiring problems with the install. Also Im brand new to the site soo....Whats up everyone!!!!
01-06-09, 04:58 PM
#16
i would also recommend going with suspension and handling upgrades. I have a n/a 1988 gtu. I believe n/a rx7's look faster than they really are. It's not the quickest car, but I've spent quite a bit of money on suspension. KYB agx struts all around with racing beat springs, racing beat sway bars. since the springs lower the car, my rear camber is at -2%, so it helps out with the grip on corners. I have front camber plates too. an aluminum hood helps take some weight off the front, and you can go without power steering, and a/c, maybe even relocate the battery to the rear, and take out that spare tire...? Power's not always everything. I can take quicker cars on corners easily.
but if you are looking for power...
you can always:
buy an exhaust and intake setup. ORRRRR, make your own exhaust, it's so much cheaper. my friend made his for $30 + the price of a generic muffler. Make your own intake pipe. the racing beat true dual system looks very promising. I have the n/a catback, but i should have shelled out the extra 400 for the true dual system. check out jegs.com for exhaust piping. it's like $11 for 4 feet of aluminized tubing 2.5".
n/a street port and rebuild. that costs alot of money though.
6-port turbo. I have a s4 turbo and manifold if you're interested. research aaroncake's work for that one. or look up on google "the almost complete turbo swap rx7" and it'll show you all the steps for a turbo modification on a n/a motor.
jdm turbo swap. I'm kind of against this though. My friend bought a jdm engine, actually two. the first one was missing an apex seal, the second one he installed it, and a month later, the oil control rings were shot, and now he's looking for money to get a rebuild. $1500 for just the motor, tranny, and ecu. You'll still need a turbo differential, or a turbo tranny to n/a diff driveshaft. not to mention all the little details... like getting your injectors flow tested, hoping they're not leaky or n/a injectors. and the price of all the sensors, maf, that stuff.
Rebuilt jdm turbo swap. Hopefully, you can find somebody selling a rebuilt motor. If you end up just rebuilding a motor, hope that your housings and rotors are still good. new housings cost around $1,000 i believe. I'm not sure about rotors. a seal kit is around like $1,100 or $1,200
maybe turbo isn't the answer, unless you go with that 6-port turbo option.
you could change all the grounds, so you don't get that 3,800 hesitation. It's pretty annoying. I know places sell kits... but can't you just make your own? I believe all you have to do is lower the resistance.... get better cable and connectors. just a theory
in conclusion, I doubt that you can reach 200 hp with $1,200 to spend. I've spent that much... even more on my suspension... and now I'm in the process of going turbo. Fabricating everything yourself will save you big bucks. If you decide to go with Racing Beat.... you'll get performance and a hefty bill. It's good stuff, but if you're trying to be economical, fabricating your exhaust (straightpipe to a resonator or muffler), and some intake piping might help you out.
i would say..... if you do a rebuild yourself... you can go with a rebuild, bridgeport, exhaust and intake setup. might need a little more candy money, but if you do the research you can make it happen.
but if you are looking for power...
you can always:
buy an exhaust and intake setup. ORRRRR, make your own exhaust, it's so much cheaper. my friend made his for $30 + the price of a generic muffler. Make your own intake pipe. the racing beat true dual system looks very promising. I have the n/a catback, but i should have shelled out the extra 400 for the true dual system. check out jegs.com for exhaust piping. it's like $11 for 4 feet of aluminized tubing 2.5".
n/a street port and rebuild. that costs alot of money though.
6-port turbo. I have a s4 turbo and manifold if you're interested. research aaroncake's work for that one. or look up on google "the almost complete turbo swap rx7" and it'll show you all the steps for a turbo modification on a n/a motor.
jdm turbo swap. I'm kind of against this though. My friend bought a jdm engine, actually two. the first one was missing an apex seal, the second one he installed it, and a month later, the oil control rings were shot, and now he's looking for money to get a rebuild. $1500 for just the motor, tranny, and ecu. You'll still need a turbo differential, or a turbo tranny to n/a diff driveshaft. not to mention all the little details... like getting your injectors flow tested, hoping they're not leaky or n/a injectors. and the price of all the sensors, maf, that stuff.
Rebuilt jdm turbo swap. Hopefully, you can find somebody selling a rebuilt motor. If you end up just rebuilding a motor, hope that your housings and rotors are still good. new housings cost around $1,000 i believe. I'm not sure about rotors. a seal kit is around like $1,100 or $1,200
maybe turbo isn't the answer, unless you go with that 6-port turbo option.
you could change all the grounds, so you don't get that 3,800 hesitation. It's pretty annoying. I know places sell kits... but can't you just make your own? I believe all you have to do is lower the resistance.... get better cable and connectors. just a theory
in conclusion, I doubt that you can reach 200 hp with $1,200 to spend. I've spent that much... even more on my suspension... and now I'm in the process of going turbo. Fabricating everything yourself will save you big bucks. If you decide to go with Racing Beat.... you'll get performance and a hefty bill. It's good stuff, but if you're trying to be economical, fabricating your exhaust (straightpipe to a resonator or muffler), and some intake piping might help you out.
i would say..... if you do a rebuild yourself... you can go with a rebuild, bridgeport, exhaust and intake setup. might need a little more candy money, but if you do the research you can make it happen.
01-06-09, 09:19 PM
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i would also recommend going with suspension and handling upgrades. I have a n/a 1988 gtu. I believe n/a rx7's look faster than they really are. It's not the quickest car, but I've spent quite a bit of money on suspension. KYB agx struts all around with racing beat springs, racing beat sway bars. since the springs lower the car, my rear camber is at -2%, so it helps out with the grip on corners. I have front camber plates too. an aluminum hood helps take some weight off the front, and you can go without power steering, and a/c, maybe even relocate the battery to the rear, and take out that spare tire...? Power's not always everything. I can take quicker cars on corners easily.
but if you are looking for power...
you can always:
buy an exhaust and intake setup. ORRRRR, make your own exhaust, it's so much cheaper. my friend made his for $30 + the price of a generic muffler. Make your own intake pipe. the racing beat true dual system looks very promising. I have the n/a catback, but i should have shelled out the extra 400 for the true dual system. check out jegs.com for exhaust piping. it's like $11 for 4 feet of aluminized tubing 2.5".
n/a street port and rebuild. that costs alot of money though.
6-port turbo. I have a s4 turbo and manifold if you're interested. research aaroncake's work for that one. or look up on google "the almost complete turbo swap rx7" and it'll show you all the steps for a turbo modification on a n/a motor.
jdm turbo swap. I'm kind of against this though. My friend bought a jdm engine, actually two. the first one was missing an apex seal, the second one he installed it, and a month later, the oil control rings were shot, and now he's looking for money to get a rebuild. $1500 for just the motor, tranny, and ecu. You'll still need a turbo differential, or a turbo tranny to n/a diff driveshaft. not to mention all the little details... like getting your injectors flow tested, hoping they're not leaky or n/a injectors. and the price of all the sensors, maf, that stuff.
Rebuilt jdm turbo swap. Hopefully, you can find somebody selling a rebuilt motor. If you end up just rebuilding a motor, hope that your housings and rotors are still good. new housings cost around $1,000 i believe. I'm not sure about rotors. a seal kit is around like $1,100 or $1,200
maybe turbo isn't the answer, unless you go with that 6-port turbo option.
you could change all the grounds, so you don't get that 3,800 hesitation. It's pretty annoying. I know places sell kits... but can't you just make your own? I believe all you have to do is lower the resistance.... get better cable and connectors. just a theory
in conclusion, I doubt that you can reach 200 hp with $1,200 to spend. I've spent that much... even more on my suspension... and now I'm in the process of going turbo. Fabricating everything yourself will save you big bucks. If you decide to go with Racing Beat.... you'll get performance and a hefty bill. It's good stuff, but if you're trying to be economical, fabricating your exhaust (straightpipe to a resonator or muffler), and some intake piping might help you out.
i would say..... if you do a rebuild yourself... you can go with a rebuild, bridgeport, exhaust and intake setup. might need a little more candy money, but if you do the research you can make it happen.
but if you are looking for power...
you can always:
buy an exhaust and intake setup. ORRRRR, make your own exhaust, it's so much cheaper. my friend made his for $30 + the price of a generic muffler. Make your own intake pipe. the racing beat true dual system looks very promising. I have the n/a catback, but i should have shelled out the extra 400 for the true dual system. check out jegs.com for exhaust piping. it's like $11 for 4 feet of aluminized tubing 2.5".
n/a street port and rebuild. that costs alot of money though.
6-port turbo. I have a s4 turbo and manifold if you're interested. research aaroncake's work for that one. or look up on google "the almost complete turbo swap rx7" and it'll show you all the steps for a turbo modification on a n/a motor.
jdm turbo swap. I'm kind of against this though. My friend bought a jdm engine, actually two. the first one was missing an apex seal, the second one he installed it, and a month later, the oil control rings were shot, and now he's looking for money to get a rebuild. $1500 for just the motor, tranny, and ecu. You'll still need a turbo differential, or a turbo tranny to n/a diff driveshaft. not to mention all the little details... like getting your injectors flow tested, hoping they're not leaky or n/a injectors. and the price of all the sensors, maf, that stuff.
Rebuilt jdm turbo swap. Hopefully, you can find somebody selling a rebuilt motor. If you end up just rebuilding a motor, hope that your housings and rotors are still good. new housings cost around $1,000 i believe. I'm not sure about rotors. a seal kit is around like $1,100 or $1,200
maybe turbo isn't the answer, unless you go with that 6-port turbo option.
you could change all the grounds, so you don't get that 3,800 hesitation. It's pretty annoying. I know places sell kits... but can't you just make your own? I believe all you have to do is lower the resistance.... get better cable and connectors. just a theory
in conclusion, I doubt that you can reach 200 hp with $1,200 to spend. I've spent that much... even more on my suspension... and now I'm in the process of going turbo. Fabricating everything yourself will save you big bucks. If you decide to go with Racing Beat.... you'll get performance and a hefty bill. It's good stuff, but if you're trying to be economical, fabricating your exhaust (straightpipe to a resonator or muffler), and some intake piping might help you out.
i would say..... if you do a rebuild yourself... you can go with a rebuild, bridgeport, exhaust and intake setup. might need a little more candy money, but if you do the research you can make it happen.
01-06-09, 11:53 PM
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things to consider...
first... i agree with Aaron Cake a good streetable exhaust... and a tight suspension... this should make your car faster than your friends avalon and you'll still be able to dog him in the turns...
as long as you have a stock exhaust port setup on your engine, go with a full racing beat or borla... they have a very streetable tone. the racing beat can be used with a stock y pipe if you want to direct some of you funds elsewhere... of course you would have to piece the mufflers, header, and "presilencer" together rather than ordering the full kit. also keep in mind that your 5th and 6th port actuators are exhaust driven, meaning if the exhaust is free flowing, you might have a delay in acceleration. racing beat found a way around it by putting a pressure tube at the header for the actuators.
as far as other cheap options... get rid of the stock breather box (afm adapter and cone filter) also, say bye bye to the air pump (track use only...hehe) and block of the air control valve... keep in mind that you are responsible for keeping your car street legal and passing whatever inspections...
one more note... you need to be careful not to open your exhaust too much on a nonturbo simply because you do not want your exhaust pulses to slow down at the high end of your rpm range...
i hope this helps...
as long as you have a stock exhaust port setup on your engine, go with a full racing beat or borla... they have a very streetable tone. the racing beat can be used with a stock y pipe if you want to direct some of you funds elsewhere... of course you would have to piece the mufflers, header, and "presilencer" together rather than ordering the full kit. also keep in mind that your 5th and 6th port actuators are exhaust driven, meaning if the exhaust is free flowing, you might have a delay in acceleration. racing beat found a way around it by putting a pressure tube at the header for the actuators.
as far as other cheap options... get rid of the stock breather box (afm adapter and cone filter) also, say bye bye to the air pump (track use only...hehe) and block of the air control valve... keep in mind that you are responsible for keeping your car street legal and passing whatever inspections...
one more note... you need to be careful not to open your exhaust too much on a nonturbo simply because you do not want your exhaust pulses to slow down at the high end of your rpm range...
i hope this helps...
01-07-09, 10:19 AM
#20
you know you want this
i'll have to disagree with alot of what is being said about the costs. if you are mechanically inclined, you can reduce the cost by alot. also, if your motor is in pretty good condition, that can save some serious cash too. heres about what i have into my motor...
camden supercharger - $900
new rotor bearings - $30ish
atkins seal kit - $280ish
teardown, porting (1/2 bridge), rebuild - free!
everything else from my motor was re-usable and in excellent shape, so im in for about $1200 on the motor, plus beer, but i am running a carb so i don't need an ECU
camden supercharger - $900
new rotor bearings - $30ish
atkins seal kit - $280ish
teardown, porting (1/2 bridge), rebuild - free!
everything else from my motor was re-usable and in excellent shape, so im in for about $1200 on the motor, plus beer, but i am running a carb so i don't need an ECU
01-07-09, 10:55 PM
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Yeah, I'm new to this and know how to do jack**** right now, but I'm willing to learn because I think it would be fun and I'm up for saving money any day. Still sounds like upgrading the exhaust is the way to go right now... I'm just wondering though, how did you get a supercharger for 900$, Camden's website has it listed for at least 2 grand? O, and what does the supercharger do to your fuel economy?
01-07-09, 11:33 PM
#22
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boost and fuel economy???
pretty simple...
boost + rotary = poor gas mileage
whenever you boost a rotary you pretty much want to tune pig rich (until the engine stumbles and back it down a notch or two. detonation can do much more damage on a boosted rotary setup (less room for error+more strain on the apex seals)...
na rotaries can handle 1,000's of miles before detonation does damage (usually)...
i'd say mpg @ 8 pounds of boost on a supercharged na rotary... 10-12 mpg (ball park)...
anyone reading this with a supercharger feel free to chime in on mpg...
boost + rotary = poor gas mileage
whenever you boost a rotary you pretty much want to tune pig rich (until the engine stumbles and back it down a notch or two. detonation can do much more damage on a boosted rotary setup (less room for error+more strain on the apex seals)...
na rotaries can handle 1,000's of miles before detonation does damage (usually)...
i'd say mpg @ 8 pounds of boost on a supercharged na rotary... 10-12 mpg (ball park)...
anyone reading this with a supercharger feel free to chime in on mpg...
01-08-09, 11:10 AM
#23
you know you want this
its good you're excited and want to learn. i didn't know jack about these cars when i got mine, but after a couple months with good guidance, i was able to do a complete rebuild on my engine and chassis on my own! im sure you'll have a blast with your car either way
01-08-09, 01:54 PM
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Keep in mind that a good exhaust will set you back a bit of money. Good rotary exhausts are thick walled stainless, with a stainless packed resonator and stainless packed mufflers. Most generic and aftermarket stuff is thin walled and glass packed. They either don't last, or make the car sound horrid. Listen to the Racing Beat exhaust, then listen to the N1 knockoffs that people seem to be sporting these days and I guarantee you will NEVER look at buying a cheap exhaust for your NA.
01-08-09, 06:45 PM
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I know one way to increase HP is with ceramic coatings. Here is a link to Techlines FAQ page. Check it out. This might be an idea. http://techlinecoatings.com/faq.html
Thanks much! Joe/ aka Max Cool Penguin
Thanks much! Joe/ aka Max Cool Penguin
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