Help with my FC project (daily drifter 2+2)
10-03-08, 11:55 AM
#1
Help with my FC project (daily drifter 2+2)
First, i hear there is a tag on the diff in FC's to let you know it is an lsd and not an open diff?
WHere is it? I spent 15 minutes under the car trying to find something that looked remotely promising and found nothing. Car is an S4 gxl but has gtu parts floating around here and there in it.
Also, the guy who i got the car from unplugged his trailing plugs. I have a feeling this is a bad thing to do. Why? I'm not driving the car right now anyway. I drove it home and played around with it for 15 minutes and parked it. I'm waiting on my new shell to swap this engine into. I was told the engine was toasted b/c the car was turbocharged at one point. The front bumper was hacked to **** for a rather large intercooler but a rotary shop in Kannopolis NC rebuilt the engine 3k ago. Underhood, it's clean. After the swap into the 2+2 bone stock gxl, i'm parting this thing out.
I'm looking to keep this car na as it's going to be my daily. Look over and comment on what i'm leaning towards:
S4 six port large street port
2mm racing seals
Long tube custom header, equal length, smooth-angled collector
3" custom single catless vband headerback exhaust with an hks dragger or burns muffler
Apexi afc to lean out
Wideband
Koyo radiator
Sheet metal duct to keep high velocity air constantly flowing through the rad
Bigger oil cooler
Custom lower cooling plate (stocker is long gone on both cars)
Custom oem vented hood (i'm a pretty good welder: tig, stick, brazing, mig....yeah.) with hood risers
Haven't decided on a kit yet but i want something classy, functional (adds downforce, aids cooling, makes people jealous....etc) and i am on the lookout for s5 tails. Ok, enough about my rice, onto the stiff stuff.
D2 coilovers
Energy suspension bushings
Kaaz 2 way lsd (if i dont have one that works/at all)
dtss eliminators
Steering rack spacers
Hawk pads
powerstop rotors
TCsportline rear camber arms
(recommend me a clutch)
Cusco tower bars
Mazdaspeed roll bars
drift e-brake button
Short shifter
New shifter bushings (there is 1" of sideplay slop in my shifter i want to get rid of)
SO? Aside from taking care of the basic maint first and foremost, am i on the right track? How much power (ROUGHLY) is my engine setup capable of? 180whp? 200whp? If not, lmk what would be holding me back from hitting those numbers. I've searched and seen n/a bp/pp engines make around 250-300 no problem with a carb but i'm fi and haven't seen any dyno sheets/runs with a six port fi 13b.
WHere is it? I spent 15 minutes under the car trying to find something that looked remotely promising and found nothing. Car is an S4 gxl but has gtu parts floating around here and there in it.
Also, the guy who i got the car from unplugged his trailing plugs. I have a feeling this is a bad thing to do. Why? I'm not driving the car right now anyway. I drove it home and played around with it for 15 minutes and parked it. I'm waiting on my new shell to swap this engine into. I was told the engine was toasted b/c the car was turbocharged at one point. The front bumper was hacked to **** for a rather large intercooler but a rotary shop in Kannopolis NC rebuilt the engine 3k ago. Underhood, it's clean. After the swap into the 2+2 bone stock gxl, i'm parting this thing out.
I'm looking to keep this car na as it's going to be my daily. Look over and comment on what i'm leaning towards:
S4 six port large street port
2mm racing seals
Long tube custom header, equal length, smooth-angled collector
3" custom single catless vband headerback exhaust with an hks dragger or burns muffler
Apexi afc to lean out
Wideband
Koyo radiator
Sheet metal duct to keep high velocity air constantly flowing through the rad
Bigger oil cooler
Custom lower cooling plate (stocker is long gone on both cars)
Custom oem vented hood (i'm a pretty good welder: tig, stick, brazing, mig....yeah.) with hood risers
Haven't decided on a kit yet but i want something classy, functional (adds downforce, aids cooling, makes people jealous....etc) and i am on the lookout for s5 tails. Ok, enough about my rice, onto the stiff stuff.
D2 coilovers
Energy suspension bushings
Kaaz 2 way lsd (if i dont have one that works/at all)
dtss eliminators
Steering rack spacers
Hawk pads
powerstop rotors
TCsportline rear camber arms
(recommend me a clutch)
Cusco tower bars
Mazdaspeed roll bars
drift e-brake button
Short shifter
New shifter bushings (there is 1" of sideplay slop in my shifter i want to get rid of)
SO? Aside from taking care of the basic maint first and foremost, am i on the right track? How much power (ROUGHLY) is my engine setup capable of? 180whp? 200whp? If not, lmk what would be holding me back from hitting those numbers. I've searched and seen n/a bp/pp engines make around 250-300 no problem with a carb but i'm fi and haven't seen any dyno sheets/runs with a six port fi 13b.
10-03-08, 10:42 PM
#2
If your gxl doesnt have the lsd tag on the diff, then it probably fell off sometime when the previous owner changed the oil in it. Its easy to tell if it is a lsd just by jacking up the rear and turning one tire, if the other side turns the same way then you have lsd. Another way to find out is to open up the diff cover and actually look in it to see if the lsd unit is in there, if you see gears, you got a open diff.
With that kind of exhaust setup, its going to loud. Also, instead of spending money on an Apexi safc try to go with a Rtek stage 2. It will give you WAY more tuning options, especially if you want to try to atleast make over 200rwhp on a large streetport.
I' ve heard some bad things about the D2 coilovers. There are way better coilover for around the same money as D2s. For the price of a D2 Id rather get ground control coilovers with some koni shocks. Or if you want the full pledge coilovers, you can try Stance, buddyclub, or megan.
With that kind of exhaust setup, its going to loud. Also, instead of spending money on an Apexi safc try to go with a Rtek stage 2. It will give you WAY more tuning options, especially if you want to try to atleast make over 200rwhp on a large streetport.
I' ve heard some bad things about the D2 coilovers. There are way better coilover for around the same money as D2s. For the price of a D2 Id rather get ground control coilovers with some koni shocks. Or if you want the full pledge coilovers, you can try Stance, buddyclub, or megan.
10-04-08, 02:02 PM
#4
If your gxl doesnt have the lsd tag on the diff, then it probably fell off sometime when the previous owner changed the oil in it. Its easy to tell if it is a lsd just by jacking up the rear and turning one tire, if the other side turns the same way then you have lsd. Another way to find out is to open up the diff cover and actually look in it to see if the lsd unit is in there, if you see gears, you got a open diff.
With that kind of exhaust setup, its going to loud. Also, instead of spending money on an Apexi safc try to go with a Rtek stage 2. It will give you WAY more tuning options, especially if you want to try to atleast make over 200rwhp on a large streetport.
I' ve heard some bad things about the D2 coilovers. There are way better coilover for around the same money as D2s. For the price of a D2 Id rather get ground control coilovers with some koni shocks. Or if you want the full pledge coilovers, you can try Stance, buddyclub, or megan.
With that kind of exhaust setup, its going to loud. Also, instead of spending money on an Apexi safc try to go with a Rtek stage 2. It will give you WAY more tuning options, especially if you want to try to atleast make over 200rwhp on a large streetport.
I' ve heard some bad things about the D2 coilovers. There are way better coilover for around the same money as D2s. For the price of a D2 Id rather get ground control coilovers with some koni shocks. Or if you want the full pledge coilovers, you can try Stance, buddyclub, or megan.
Well, i did a test and reved it (to idk because my tach doesn't work (i dunno where he said he unhooked the trailing plugs. They're plugged into the coils and the actual plugs so idk) to some mystery rpm, dumped the clutch and kicked it sideways pulling out of my driveway. 1 black mark. Not 2. So idk about the lsd. I had that inside-tire-spins-instead-of-gripping **** going on. I think i'm just going to weld it. ****. I have 2 rear ends. Why not? I'll still do what you said and jack the car up to check and see.
From what i've read, rtek has no n/a apps at this time. Apparently i need to keep reading? Stock injectors are good for 250hp but do i need to upgrade my fuel pump? Would advanced auto carry the pulsation damper for the fuel rail? That part and electrical issues i've read are 2 of the leading causes of a rotary going up in smoke. I want this replaced yesterday. Lol.
For coilovers, what about tein basics? (i'll buy mono-flexes if i can get em used) Would they be comfortable enough for daily driving (without bouncing me all over the place) yet stiff enough for spirited driving? If comfort becomes an issue, i could just swap some s-tech's or luxury springs in. I will NEVER own a set of coilover sleeves. I want the real deal or nothing at all.
Loud exhaust? Oh well. My eclipse was loud as hell turboed with an open downpipe and when it was n/a it rapped hard over 3k rpms with a straight pipe and Tanabe medallion style fart can. I can deal with the noise to make a little more power. I'm mature enough to keep the rpms down for daily driving and they do make silencers to tone it down if need be.
Clutch recomendations? I'm looking to replace mine early in the build. I know my stocker works and grabs. I just want quicker engagement and more response.
I stay about 40 miles south of charlotte, right on the nc/sc boarder. I live in SC so no inspections, no emissions, cops dont check for "illegal street racing" mods. They're bad about it in charlotte, especially if you have an nc tag. Idiots roll racing blocking traffic on I-485 ruined it for everyone AGAIN. They'll pull you over if they even smell rice cooking. Mostly, they're targeting the 1000's of hondas that litter the area.
Thanks for the replies.
Edit: To aid with proper shutdown, a turbo/auto timer is at the top of my list. I'm sure there's going to be times where i dont want to sit and wait in the car for cool down or leave it cooling with the key in the ignition.
Last edited by NoPistons!; 10-04-08 at 02:17 PM.
10-05-08, 02:51 PM
#5
Drifter gets no love? Meh.
I think i jacked my oil pan up when i spun out. I'm dripping a considerable amount. I'll be sure to address it as soon as i have the motor out of the car. I only have to drive it 3 miles to the shop. She should hold together.....
****, i still can't wait til tomorrow. Today is my b-day, just turned 23 and tomorrow i should be recieving the other half of my gift to myself. I feel pretty excited. It's been months since i've done any extensive auto work. I miss being dirty up to my elbows in filth.
I'm going to the drifting section to hang out, learn and get some ideas.
I think i jacked my oil pan up when i spun out. I'm dripping a considerable amount. I'll be sure to address it as soon as i have the motor out of the car. I only have to drive it 3 miles to the shop. She should hold together.....
****, i still can't wait til tomorrow. Today is my b-day, just turned 23 and tomorrow i should be recieving the other half of my gift to myself. I feel pretty excited. It's been months since i've done any extensive auto work. I miss being dirty up to my elbows in filth.
I'm going to the drifting section to hang out, learn and get some ideas.
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10-06-08, 08:57 PM
#9
Yeah, that would be the entire subframe of the car. Looking from the tie rod ends to the ball joints to the mounts and the more than normal rotary vibration (at idle the shifter violently shakes)......i think that stuff needs to be replaced. No word on when this is getting done at this time. I have an oil pan leak as well from the ditch incident but it will be fixed as soon as i get my other car. I was supposed to get it today but the ******** wanted to give me the run around and made excuses as to why we needed to wait until they could move 2 cars they didn't have the keys for. They have until next monday and then i'm going somewhere else with my cash. I've been to the junkyard 6 times this month and verified i had the cash for it by showing it and still, no car. To top it off my buddy's truck that we had the trailer on killed the transmission on the way back. If only that happened with the car on it. I guess it would have been a shitty day either way.
We did manage to slimjim the doors open on the car vs breaking the window since the guy doesn't have a key he says. Either way, i'm going to have to swap locks and ignition and god knows what else. Not for the faint of heart putting 2 fc's together to make one car.....
Again, i still need to get this done to see what i need and see what i can part out for sale. I still have a bunch of eclipse junk i need to get rid of as well to raise funds for the suspension and mounts.....
Still haven't found my usb cable, which sucks because i need to upload pictures to get help with things. The afm in my car isn't what came on a gxl. I dont know where it came from actually. I'm told it's a turbo II but again, i'm not sure from looking at pics of turbo II engine bays.
I'm pretty frustrated right now actually. Yesterday was my birthday and the whole gang went down to the junkyard and i got pissed on pretty much. In turn, i'm going to light a fire under their *** to get it done tomorrow, the next day and the next day until i can tow the car home. I think i might tell them $200 after we get it on the trailer for putting us through this ****. w/e.
I need a beer. If work didn't random pee test, i'd smoke gobs of good chronic until i was blue in the face and didn't know up from down.
This thread is my first thread on here and so far, it isn't delivering. I wonder how many people view this and say to themselves: I want my 30 minutes back. No pictures, pfffft. GTFO!
10-06-08, 09:11 PM
#10
It basically deletes the ratchet mechanism so you dont have to push and hold the button.
Makes locking the rear wheels to initiate slides or hold slides safer/easier.
Then again, i never once touched the ebrake drifting my fwd eclipse. It was all weight transfer. Braking, feint, accel off........ None of that powerslide handbrake hella oversteer stall ****.
Makes locking the rear wheels to initiate slides or hold slides safer/easier.
Then again, i never once touched the ebrake drifting my fwd eclipse. It was all weight transfer. Braking, feint, accel off........ None of that powerslide handbrake hella oversteer stall ****.
10-09-08, 08:41 AM
#14
I dont have any vid.
I just went out by myself when i was bored and played around. I had the pos 195/70's that came on the car when i got it...hell the whole car was bone stock then but i had an intake for 10000000000 more whp.....
Still, fwd sucks because you have to keep it hot to keep it sideways and all your backend control is either from the handbrake or the foot brake. There are some guys with kei cars, ef and eg civics and i've seen a delsol and a couple fwd integras d1'd out sliding in japan on youtube that make it happen and keep up with the rwd crowd but i feel to truly get id done, you need rwd.
I just went out by myself when i was bored and played around. I had the pos 195/70's that came on the car when i got it...hell the whole car was bone stock then but i had an intake for 10000000000 more whp.....
Still, fwd sucks because you have to keep it hot to keep it sideways and all your backend control is either from the handbrake or the foot brake. There are some guys with kei cars, ef and eg civics and i've seen a delsol and a couple fwd integras d1'd out sliding in japan on youtube that make it happen and keep up with the rwd crowd but i feel to truly get id done, you need rwd.
10-10-08, 07:03 AM
#16
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Thread was full of promise, then came the fwd drift, when God said, "Let there be fail!" Besides that, it seems like you've got a decent project going for yourself. Happy belated Birthday, and I hope you get that junkyard to get you your ****, so you can start getting durrty! Good luck w/ your new project... oh and PICS OR GTFO 
lol
lol
10-15-08, 07:21 PM
#18
Workin on the usb cable..... I dont know how in the hell i managed to lose it when i have 15 usb cables for assorted devices that look just like it.
I just got the car. It's an SE......meh. Come to find out, my gtu is just a gxl. Either way, i dont care. They're both 5 speed n/a s4's so i've got something going.
Inside the car were all kinds of treasures. Blown speakers, 3 crossovers, 5 disk changer, what looks like a stock radio and cd player from a caravan?, alpine changer controller, alpine crossover, pioneer amp, sony explod 10" sub new in box, a spare coil (rx7), a laptop with bag, laptop battery, 2 way high end radio with battery, half a flashlight, a map of the united states (a big one....
), a bunch of **** from random cars, a bunch of mexican childrens movies (atleast 40 which i threw out promptly with the other stuff).
Assessment of the car (aside from finding out it's an se) is the transmission has some issues where the shifter wont select any gear. I found another shifter in the car along with two rx7 spark plugs. I haven't hooked up a battery yet to see if the directionals work. I have no key for it anyway...... This is going to be fun. I gave them $280 for the car. I gave the 10" sub to my girl since i was going to get her one anyway and i found a set of pioneer door speakers i'm going to give her as well since hers are popping in her jetta. We found something dragging under the car when i was moving it. The front sway bar snapped somehow...... Looking at the rear of the car, the exhaust was rotted bad. I kicked the other tip that was left and it bent up at a 90* angle with ease....boso style.
The car is also an f-ing 4 lug....... On those lugs are some crazy offset camaro looking wheels. The tires poke out an inch past the fenders/quarters.
The fuel pump is right there in the hatch. I'm assuming it's like that in all fc's. I dont know, haven't bought a haynes/chilton/fsm yet.
This is going to suck. Seriously.
I just got the car. It's an SE......meh. Come to find out, my gtu is just a gxl. Either way, i dont care. They're both 5 speed n/a s4's so i've got something going.
Inside the car were all kinds of treasures. Blown speakers, 3 crossovers, 5 disk changer, what looks like a stock radio and cd player from a caravan?, alpine changer controller, alpine crossover, pioneer amp, sony explod 10" sub new in box, a spare coil (rx7), a laptop with bag, laptop battery, 2 way high end radio with battery, half a flashlight, a map of the united states (a big one....
), a bunch of **** from random cars, a bunch of mexican childrens movies (atleast 40 which i threw out promptly with the other stuff).Assessment of the car (aside from finding out it's an se) is the transmission has some issues where the shifter wont select any gear. I found another shifter in the car along with two rx7 spark plugs. I haven't hooked up a battery yet to see if the directionals work. I have no key for it anyway...... This is going to be fun. I gave them $280 for the car. I gave the 10" sub to my girl since i was going to get her one anyway and i found a set of pioneer door speakers i'm going to give her as well since hers are popping in her jetta. We found something dragging under the car when i was moving it. The front sway bar snapped somehow...... Looking at the rear of the car, the exhaust was rotted bad. I kicked the other tip that was left and it bent up at a 90* angle with ease....boso style.
The car is also an f-ing 4 lug....... On those lugs are some crazy offset camaro looking wheels. The tires poke out an inch past the fenders/quarters.
The fuel pump is right there in the hatch. I'm assuming it's like that in all fc's. I dont know, haven't bought a haynes/chilton/fsm yet.
This is going to suck. Seriously.
10-20-08, 12:20 PM
#19
I might as well make this my project thread.
Alright! Finally have both fc's on jackstands/blocks now.
I'm doing my se to gxl conversion now. The se is f-ing haggard. Well, not really. Just mouse poop in the hatch mixed with water from a missing peice of hatch window seal..... There's some rust but not much. Mostly rusty bolts and surface rust on the subframe and whatnot. Some of the wireing under the dash and in the center console has been hacked to ****. (where's the ecu in these cars btw?) I just got done pulling the wheels off (changing the whole rear end assembly over to gxl components), the stock mufflers and the y pipe. I sheared a few of the bolts off. No biggie. I'm making my own 3-3.5" single straight pipe with a high dolla (hks/5zigen/apexi legit) muffler exhaust anyway. I was going to pull the axles out of the rear hubs when i found the axle nut beaten into the half shaft's groove. It will be impossible to get off without a torch and center punch so i'm leaving the whole assembly together. I hope i can do it without dropping it on myself and i wish i had invested in some goggles. Rust, grass, dirt, plant whatnot, fireants...you name it, it's fallen in my eyes in the past 2 hours.
Looking at the car and it being almost 20 years old it was built leaps and bounds better than my 98 mitsubishi eclipse. The japanese know what's up! Everything looks solid as hell despite having many miles of wear and degenerative wear from sitting in a junkyard for so long.
There are a few things i need that i can think of off hand.
Oem oil cooler in good condition
Center console radio bezel
I finally found the usb cord for my camera so i can add some flair to this boring-*** thread. However, my girlfriend and I got into it over something stupid
and she felt the need to delete all my pictures as punishment. 
No worries though. Nothing that can't be replaced. 
This is going to be one hell of a restoration project. The side moldings where the skirts would go are beat up so i think i'll holla at shine auto and get some of those fancy-fancy ings+ style skirts to hide the damage after the nitty gritty is done. The carpet needs to be replaced. I think i'm going to need to replace the lower portion of the rear seats as well.
If anyone is looking at this thread saying "I have the parts you need" and you want to trade for some stock parts i might have feel free to chime in at any time.
When my girlfriend gets home, i'm going to ask her oh so nicely if i can borrow her camera and i'll upload some pics to my photobucket tomorrow.
I'm doing my se to gxl conversion now. The se is f-ing haggard. Well, not really. Just mouse poop in the hatch mixed with water from a missing peice of hatch window seal..... There's some rust but not much. Mostly rusty bolts and surface rust on the subframe and whatnot. Some of the wireing under the dash and in the center console has been hacked to ****. (where's the ecu in these cars btw?) I just got done pulling the wheels off (changing the whole rear end assembly over to gxl components), the stock mufflers and the y pipe. I sheared a few of the bolts off. No biggie. I'm making my own 3-3.5" single straight pipe with a high dolla (hks/5zigen/apexi legit) muffler exhaust anyway. I was going to pull the axles out of the rear hubs when i found the axle nut beaten into the half shaft's groove. It will be impossible to get off without a torch and center punch so i'm leaving the whole assembly together. I hope i can do it without dropping it on myself and i wish i had invested in some goggles. Rust, grass, dirt, plant whatnot, fireants...you name it, it's fallen in my eyes in the past 2 hours.
Looking at the car and it being almost 20 years old it was built leaps and bounds better than my 98 mitsubishi eclipse. The japanese know what's up! Everything looks solid as hell despite having many miles of wear and degenerative wear from sitting in a junkyard for so long.
There are a few things i need that i can think of off hand.
Oem oil cooler in good condition
Center console radio bezel
I finally found the usb cord for my camera so i can add some flair to this boring-*** thread. However, my girlfriend and I got into it over something stupid
and she felt the need to delete all my pictures as punishment. No worries though. Nothing that can't be replaced. This is going to be one hell of a restoration project. The side moldings where the skirts would go are beat up so i think i'll holla at shine auto and get some of those fancy-fancy ings+ style skirts to hide the damage after the nitty gritty is done. The carpet needs to be replaced. I think i'm going to need to replace the lower portion of the rear seats as well.
If anyone is looking at this thread saying "I have the parts you need" and you want to trade for some stock parts i might have feel free to chime in at any time.
When my girlfriend gets home, i'm going to ask her oh so nicely if i can borrow her camera and i'll upload some pics to my photobucket tomorrow.
suspension
10-21-08, 10:17 AM
#21
Yeah. I'm definately getting a dtss kit.
Sway bar modification is at the top of my list but i want full coilovers and all the benifits that come with first.
Well, i forgot to tell her i needed to use her cam thismorning. I'm still sore from last night. Not only did i have to drag the complete rear end from under my car by myself, the lady woke me up around 9 last night because she wanted some attention too. I was sore and dumbfounded when i woke up to say the least.
Great thing is, 3 so-called "tuners" that came over yesterday didn't even lift a finger to help. They just stopped to bullshit and talk about their cars knowing damn well that i'm busy building a car from the ground up, litterally. They did that **** when i had my eclipse too. Speaking of, here's some pics of it since i promised some spice in the thread.
Well, that's all for now since photobucket is being an *******. I have had 2 different turbo setups on the car (sorry, no pics....) and have had i dont know how many turbos...... HKS gt2530, Turbonetics .57trim, 2 garrett gt25's from a non-nur spec skyline (blew up one, gave the other away), a stock volvo 240 turbo, and lastly a oem gsx t25 turbo. I kept killing my turbos so i got rid of the car after the t25 **** the bed. That was my car's way of telling me i was wasting my time trying to boost a fwd slug of a car with a dodge neon engine under the hood...... I killed just one engine and it was n/a then. Rod bearing failure.....
Today, the driveshaft and transmission is comming out. Tomorrow, i'll try to drop engine. Next week i can start pulling things off the gxl.
Does anyone have any opinions on the atkins 2mm 13b cryo treated apex seals? For $270, sounds like a good deal. Some places are selling standard 2mm seals for $330. will a 12a pulsation damper work on a 13b?
Sway bar modification is at the top of my list but i want full coilovers and all the benifits that come with first.
Well, i forgot to tell her i needed to use her cam thismorning. I'm still sore from last night. Not only did i have to drag the complete rear end from under my car by myself, the lady woke me up around 9 last night because she wanted some attention too. I was sore and dumbfounded when i woke up to say the least.
Great thing is, 3 so-called "tuners" that came over yesterday didn't even lift a finger to help. They just stopped to bullshit and talk about their cars knowing damn well that i'm busy building a car from the ground up, litterally. They did that **** when i had my eclipse too. Speaking of, here's some pics of it since i promised some spice in the thread.
Well, that's all for now since photobucket is being an *******. I have had 2 different turbo setups on the car (sorry, no pics....) and have had i dont know how many turbos...... HKS gt2530, Turbonetics .57trim, 2 garrett gt25's from a non-nur spec skyline (blew up one, gave the other away), a stock volvo 240 turbo, and lastly a oem gsx t25 turbo. I kept killing my turbos so i got rid of the car after the t25 **** the bed. That was my car's way of telling me i was wasting my time trying to boost a fwd slug of a car with a dodge neon engine under the hood...... I killed just one engine and it was n/a then. Rod bearing failure.....
Today, the driveshaft and transmission is comming out. Tomorrow, i'll try to drop engine. Next week i can start pulling things off the gxl.
Does anyone have any opinions on the atkins 2mm 13b cryo treated apex seals? For $270, sounds like a good deal. Some places are selling standard 2mm seals for $330. will a 12a pulsation damper work on a 13b?
10-22-08, 10:44 AM
#23
Carbon fiber? Ceramic?
Because i'm going forced induction in the future (most likely 99% sure jdm turbo II), i may go with the atkins cryo treated to withstand the increased pressure and temps involved with boost. I know. I was going to stay n/a but screw it.... Gas mileage is going to be about the same as long as i stay off boost daily driving.....which is going to be kinda hard since they make boost early. A guy on here was interested in buying my complete motor. If he loses interest, i'll tear it apart and sell it off peice by peice to raise funds.
Pics uploading now. My gf requested that i put all her new pics on the computer so it should take a while. Sit tight.
Right now....looking that the se, i'm thinking of putting everything back on that i took off and using parts from the se to fix the gxl. Doors. Fenders, bumper, patch panels for the 1/4's..... I like my sunroof. RIght now, fixing the gxl makes more sense than swapping the parts over to the se. The gxl is rust free, runs like a champ, doesn't have huge dent's from being improperly jacked up in the unibody frame (se is pretty haggard underneath), i can't get the gas door open on the se and i dont feel like swapping fuel lines, gas tanks, fuel pumps..... Not right now anyway.
The clunking coming from the rear end was a broken roll bar end link. The passenger side has a standard welded steel link. The driver's side has a PLASTIC ball joint end link which broke where it connects to the hub. I dont see how i could feel or hear that when driving. It doesn't seem like a significan't part of the suspension. Every bump, turn, etc.....it's there. I was told it was a broken trailing arm/camber arm. If that was the case, my alignment would have been too hosed to drive the car home the way i did (fast and aggressive).
Because i'm going forced induction in the future (most likely 99% sure jdm turbo II), i may go with the atkins cryo treated to withstand the increased pressure and temps involved with boost. I know. I was going to stay n/a but screw it.... Gas mileage is going to be about the same as long as i stay off boost daily driving.....which is going to be kinda hard since they make boost early. A guy on here was interested in buying my complete motor. If he loses interest, i'll tear it apart and sell it off peice by peice to raise funds.
Pics uploading now. My gf requested that i put all her new pics on the computer so it should take a while. Sit tight.
Right now....looking that the se, i'm thinking of putting everything back on that i took off and using parts from the se to fix the gxl. Doors. Fenders, bumper, patch panels for the 1/4's..... I like my sunroof. RIght now, fixing the gxl makes more sense than swapping the parts over to the se. The gxl is rust free, runs like a champ, doesn't have huge dent's from being improperly jacked up in the unibody frame (se is pretty haggard underneath), i can't get the gas door open on the se and i dont feel like swapping fuel lines, gas tanks, fuel pumps..... Not right now anyway.
The clunking coming from the rear end was a broken roll bar end link. The passenger side has a standard welded steel link. The driver's side has a PLASTIC ball joint end link which broke where it connects to the hub. I dont see how i could feel or hear that when driving. It doesn't seem like a significan't part of the suspension. Every bump, turn, etc.....it's there. I was told it was a broken trailing arm/camber arm. If that was the case, my alignment would have been too hosed to drive the car home the way i did (fast and aggressive).
Last edited by NoPistons!; 10-22-08 at 11:07 AM.
10-22-08, 11:24 AM
#24
Pics are on page 2 and 3.
Wtf is this tube next to my cat that's just zip tied to the exhaust hook?
http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p...cnic/?start=20
Again, page 1 and 2. I'm not copy and pasting all of those. Feel free to browse my other albums. It's mostly car stuff and shots of me and my girlfriend and friends of ours.
I'm told this is a tII air flow meter that my air filter is hooked to?
Wtf is this tube next to my cat that's just zip tied to the exhaust hook?
http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p...cnic/?start=20
Again, page 1 and 2. I'm not copy and pasting all of those. Feel free to browse my other albums. It's mostly car stuff and shots of me and my girlfriend and friends of ours.
I'm told this is a tII air flow meter that my air filter is hooked to?
Last edited by NoPistons!; 10-22-08 at 11:27 AM.
10-23-08, 09:34 AM
#25
Bump 4 pics!
Also, if my gxl does have a diff, it's not working.
I turned the rear wheels with them off the ground. One spins, the other sits still. Same goes with the other side. I'm not running a welded diff on a street car so i guess i'll be buying a rebuild kit soon. If i can find a wrecked miata, that's even better.
Also, if my gxl does have a diff, it's not working.
I turned the rear wheels with them off the ground. One spins, the other sits still. Same goes with the other side. I'm not running a welded diff on a street car so i guess i'll be buying a rebuild kit soon. If i can find a wrecked miata, that's even better.
Last edited by NoPistons!; 10-23-08 at 09:36 AM.
