To have 400 whp for Street FD
10-01-13 | 04:09 PM
#26
Thanks for the quick reply.
OK.
1. Smog Technician told me that the O2 sensors for the first place.
However, after the O2 sensors replacement, may be the cat is already cooked, so I need new cat. That is baaaaad,,,,,,,
2. The fuel is too rich,,,,,, That would be O2 sensors again.
3. I took out the hose from stock blow off to air box to have turbo noise, that was a big mistake. After I put the hose back on, the 7 has the power for the 2nd turbo boost!
Thanks again, and I will do the O2 sensors and Spark Plugs first to see.
OK.
1. Smog Technician told me that the O2 sensors for the first place.
However, after the O2 sensors replacement, may be the cat is already cooked, so I need new cat. That is baaaaad,,,,,,,
2. The fuel is too rich,,,,,, That would be O2 sensors again.
3. I took out the hose from stock blow off to air box to have turbo noise, that was a big mistake. After I put the hose back on, the 7 has the power for the 2nd turbo boost!
Thanks again, and I will do the O2 sensors and Spark Plugs first to see.
I just got the AST, Koyo N-Flo, SMIC with pipes, and DP with Cat Back.
For the Downpipe, do I better heat wrap and paint it with heat paint?
I serched for the reasons why I better wrap it, but is that only for the fast flowing inside the pipe?
Thanks.
10-01-13 | 05:23 PM
#27
Heat-coating can be traditional header-wrap... DEI Product List | Exhaust Header Wrap and Thermal Performance Products | Design Engineering, Inc. , or a special heat coating like Jet-hot... Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings. Since you're in CA I might go with the one that's least likely to attract attention during emissions inspection.
10-01-13 | 08:43 PM
#28
While it will aid a little in exhaust flow, a downpipe should be heat coated to reduce radiant heat to engine components. Imagine two burners on your stove set at medium-high and then placed under your hood next to plastic solenoids, check-valves and rubber vacuum hoses....get the idea?
Heat-coating can be traditional header-wrap... DEI Product List | Exhaust Header Wrap and Thermal Performance Products | Design Engineering, Inc. , or a special heat coating like Jet-hot... Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings. Since you're in CA I might go with the one that's least likely to attract attention during emissions inspection.
Heat-coating can be traditional header-wrap... DEI Product List | Exhaust Header Wrap and Thermal Performance Products | Design Engineering, Inc. , or a special heat coating like Jet-hot... Jet-Hot Ceramic Coatings. Since you're in CA I might go with the one that's least likely to attract attention during emissions inspection.
Thank you!!!
11-01-13 | 02:46 PM
#29
About to have 3" dp with heat wrap, straight piping for the exhause and HKS intakes.
Those are ready to install with idler pulley kit, SMIC, and N-Flow.
My boost gauge failed. I am trying to get new gauge for my boost/vac.
To control the boost, aka boost spikie/creep, and also for the boost gauge, can I just get AEM Tru Boost?
Some posting says there is no way to control the boost creep with boost controlers,,,,,,
Now I am middle of more than 10 posts,,,,,,
Those are ready to install with idler pulley kit, SMIC, and N-Flow.
My boost gauge failed. I am trying to get new gauge for my boost/vac.
To control the boost, aka boost spikie/creep, and also for the boost gauge, can I just get AEM Tru Boost?
Some posting says there is no way to control the boost creep with boost controlers,,,,,,
Now I am middle of more than 10 posts,,,,,,
11-01-13 | 06:12 PM
#30
The only way I know of to control boost creep is to port the wastegate on the stock twins, or keep some back-pressure in the exhaust system...ala a stock cat or even a high-flow cat.
Since the stock twin's wastegate is internal and to port it will require removing the turbos, and because your car will smell like *** and make eyes water w/o a cat of some type, and because it will tend to be much louder w/o a cat....putting a cat back on is preferred for a street car IMO.
11-02-13 | 10:47 AM
#32
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STYX (MOD)
There,I said it THREE times.
One warning for posting Crap in this thread.
Another warning for making me Post because you posted Crap in this thread.
and the Last warning so you DON'T post crap in this thread.
I have been received Numerous complaints,and when that Happens you wake up Grumpy.
This thread is to be replied to with INFO Only.IF NOT I will Crap on your DAY.
You will be handed a nice 7 day vacation courtesy of STYX Airlines to a Destination outside of this Forum.
If you have nothing constructive to add to the In depth Knowledge posted by members who have already added their perspective on this Member's Problem ,Then DO NOT POST.It's that simple.
Let's show some Respect People.This is The NEW section and answers are Needed.ASAP.What they do not need is Pictures of a Freakin Lexus,or GO V8..(Yes ..YOU..)..Deleted so the OP can look at INFO,not Garbage.
You want to post Garbage then Sign into Facebook..you do not post it HERE in this section.
I can't make it any clearer than that.
STYX (MOD)
11-02-13 | 10:59 PM
#33
No boost controller will control boost CREEP. Boost controllers are only good for SPIKE.
The only way I know of to control boost creep is to port the wastegate on the stock twins, or keep some back-pressure in the exhaust system...ala a stock cat or even a high-flow cat.
Since the stock twin's wastegate is internal and to port it will require removing the turbos, and because your car will smell like *** and make eyes water w/o a cat of some type, and because it will tend to be much louder w/o a cat....putting a cat back on is preferred for a street car IMO.
The only way I know of to control boost creep is to port the wastegate on the stock twins, or keep some back-pressure in the exhaust system...ala a stock cat or even a high-flow cat.
Since the stock twin's wastegate is internal and to port it will require removing the turbos, and because your car will smell like *** and make eyes water w/o a cat of some type, and because it will tend to be much louder w/o a cat....putting a cat back on is preferred for a street car IMO.
Thanks, sgt blue!
11-02-13 | 11:21 PM
#34
*WARNING**WARNING*WARNING*
There,I said it THREE times.
One warning for posting Crap in this thread.
Another warning for making me Post because you posted Crap in this thread.
and the Last warning so you DON'T post crap in this thread.
I have been received Numerous complaints,and when that Happens you wake up Grumpy.
This thread is to be replied to with INFO Only.IF NOT I will Crap on your DAY.
You will be handed a nice 7 day vacation courtesy of STYX Airlines to a Destination outside of this Forum.
If you have nothing constructive to add to the In depth Knowledge posted by members who have already added their perspective on this Member's Problem ,Then DO NOT POST.It's that simple.
Let's show some Respect People.This is The NEW section and answers are Needed.ASAP.What they do not need is Pictures of a Freakin Lexus,or GO V8..(Yes ..YOU..)..Deleted so the OP can look at INFO,not Garbage.
You want to post Garbage then Sign into Facebook..you do not post it HERE in this section.
I can't make it any clearer than that.
STYX (MOD)
There,I said it THREE times.
One warning for posting Crap in this thread.
Another warning for making me Post because you posted Crap in this thread.
and the Last warning so you DON'T post crap in this thread.
I have been received Numerous complaints,and when that Happens you wake up Grumpy.
This thread is to be replied to with INFO Only.IF NOT I will Crap on your DAY.
You will be handed a nice 7 day vacation courtesy of STYX Airlines to a Destination outside of this Forum.
If you have nothing constructive to add to the In depth Knowledge posted by members who have already added their perspective on this Member's Problem ,Then DO NOT POST.It's that simple.
Let's show some Respect People.This is The NEW section and answers are Needed.ASAP.What they do not need is Pictures of a Freakin Lexus,or GO V8..(Yes ..YOU..)..Deleted so the OP can look at INFO,not Garbage.
You want to post Garbage then Sign into Facebook..you do not post it HERE in this section.
I can't make it any clearer than that.
STYX (MOD)
11-03-13 | 05:14 AM
#35
With the open intakes and larger intercooler, boost SPIKE might be an issue....especially when it's cool outside. A boost contoller, manual or electronic will help with that.
Remember, CREEP and SPIKE have two different causes and two different remedies. While both can cause a lean condition and damage the engine, they are NOT the same thing.
11-04-13 | 03:49 PM
#36
Your description of the exhaust set-up is confusing. But if you have a catalytic converter (cat), then boost CREEP is not a concern.
With the open intakes and larger intercooler, boost SPIKE might be an issue....especially when it's cool outside. A boost contoller, manual or electronic will help with that.
Remember, CREEP and SPIKE have two different causes and two different remedies. While both can cause a lean condition and damage the engine, they are NOT the same thing.
With the open intakes and larger intercooler, boost SPIKE might be an issue....especially when it's cool outside. A boost contoller, manual or electronic will help with that.
Remember, CREEP and SPIKE have two different causes and two different remedies. While both can cause a lean condition and damage the engine, they are NOT the same thing.
For the boost spike:
1. DP, Cat Back and OEM main cat.
2. DP, CAT Back and 3" magnaflow 3" California Cat.
3. DP, Cat Back and Hiflow Cat.
I cannot make up my mind because some says if I delete the air pump, my after market cat will be cooked. If that is the case, #2 and 3 is not the recomendations.
If I go with #1, my oem main cat is already too old to perform good. Also, air pump will not be there to help.
For the boost creep:
1. HomeDepot MBC
2. MBC
3. EVC
There are 50:50 pro and cons on the forum.
I will keep stock boost all the time.
Which set up would be good?
Thanks a lot!!!
11-04-13 | 06:16 PM
#37
I think you are reading my mind,,,,,, OK, now I studied differnce between creep and spike.
For the boost CREEP:
1. DP, Cat Back and OEM main cat.
2. DP, CAT Back and 3" magnaflow 3" California Cat.
3. DP, Cat Back and Hiflow Cat.
I cannot make up my mind because some says if I delete the air pump, my after market cat will be cooked. If that is the case, #2 and 3 is not the recomendations.
If I go with #1, my oem main cat is already too old to perform good. Also, air pump will not be there to help.
For boost SPIKE:
1. HomeDepot MBC
2. MBC
3. EVC
There are 50:50 pro and cons on the forum.
I will keep stock boost all the time.
Which set up would be good?
Thanks a lot!!!
For the boost CREEP:
1. DP, Cat Back and OEM main cat.
2. DP, CAT Back and 3" magnaflow 3" California Cat.
3. DP, Cat Back and Hiflow Cat.
I cannot make up my mind because some says if I delete the air pump, my after market cat will be cooked. If that is the case, #2 and 3 is not the recomendations.
If I go with #1, my oem main cat is already too old to perform good. Also, air pump will not be there to help.
For boost SPIKE:
1. HomeDepot MBC
2. MBC
3. EVC
There are 50:50 pro and cons on the forum.
I will keep stock boost all the time.
Which set up would be good?
Thanks a lot!!!
I don't live in California and have never dealt with emissions. But IIRC, you can't pass without an AP and maybe even the OEM cat. For a better recommendation you may want to speak with other owners in the West Coast Regional section.
As far as a boost controller, that's personal taste. A manual MBC will work fine and will be cheaper. But it takes a bit longer to get set properly.
11-05-13 | 04:20 PM
#38
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 17
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From: L.A.
your first goal should be to complete baseline maintenance and learn about the car...while otherwise leaving the car alone. Wealth of information in the 3rd gen. Faqs/stickys and searchs. Performance modification mistakes are expensive and will quickly sour you on the car. It's ugly and no fun sitting on jack stands.
This really depends on the car's use and subjective after that. There's an entire section devoted to tires/wheels/suspension here.
Oem wheels are light and strong (as long as they're the reinforced versions made after 92). But they're dated by being 16 x 8. Stock tire size was 225/50/16. Many of us ran 245/45/16's which fit fine, gave a little better look and contact and kept the speedometer close. But that's largely an obsolete tire size now. Last i looked 245/45/16 was available only in r compounds. My personal recommendation is 17" wheels. An updated look, but not radical and you'll tend to keep enough sidewall for the street. I think anything over 18" looks silly.
Imo, you should choose the intake system at the same time as your intercooler. Regardless, it is best to source ambient air from the nose of the car (not sucking hot air from under the hood) and w/o scavanging it from the ic duct.
Once you learn about the car, you'll know that the stock twins require the stock manifold. There are no other choices. Downpipes should be chosen for quality and a track record with the hotter rotary exhaust. They should also be heat-coated or wrapped before install. Search for more info, but i'll give you a hint....the chinese pipes off ebay is not probably in the mix. Price and cost are two different things. Think about that.
Unlikely, but if your car is the rare one whose stock pre-cat/downpipe has not been changed out for a downpipe already, this should be your first (and probably only) modification during the first year imo. That pre-cat has a track record of falling apart and plugging the main cat, which can damage the engine.
Sound is subjective and an aftermarket bov adds nothing to performance other than that. You already have one btw...it just vents into the stock airbox and is silent. Vented to atmosphere, i think a bov's sound also varies with boost levels. The same valve might sound different at 10 psi than it does at 14 psi.
No. You have a wastegate, it's integral and internal on the stock twins.
That's a good choice. Fluidyne is also popular and there are other good choices out there. Know that fluidyne is ~ 50% larger than stock and koyo ~ 100% larger. Larger is not automatically better and the larger you go, the more fitment issues are typically encountered. A search in the 3rd. Gen. Section will be your friend here too.
Largely a decision based on the use of the car. Imo a fmic is warranted only if the car will be limited to track use. There are aftermarket smic's out there that will give decent iat's w/o all the issues and expense of a fmic. There is also 'v' mount (vmic) choices too which are excellent...just expensive and require more fabbing. Battery relocation for a streeted car is also not desirable imo. Again...search.
No. The only way you're going to make 400 whp on stock twins is by turning up the boost...alot. That will require fuel mods...bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump etc., ignition modifications, a standalone ecu and professional tuning. Those things will cost and you can't go cheap. Also know that to produce the required boost levels the twins will be out of they're efficiency range and their life span will be shortened.
This really depends on the car's use and subjective after that. There's an entire section devoted to tires/wheels/suspension here.
Oem wheels are light and strong (as long as they're the reinforced versions made after 92). But they're dated by being 16 x 8. Stock tire size was 225/50/16. Many of us ran 245/45/16's which fit fine, gave a little better look and contact and kept the speedometer close. But that's largely an obsolete tire size now. Last i looked 245/45/16 was available only in r compounds. My personal recommendation is 17" wheels. An updated look, but not radical and you'll tend to keep enough sidewall for the street. I think anything over 18" looks silly.
Imo, you should choose the intake system at the same time as your intercooler. Regardless, it is best to source ambient air from the nose of the car (not sucking hot air from under the hood) and w/o scavanging it from the ic duct.
Once you learn about the car, you'll know that the stock twins require the stock manifold. There are no other choices. Downpipes should be chosen for quality and a track record with the hotter rotary exhaust. They should also be heat-coated or wrapped before install. Search for more info, but i'll give you a hint....the chinese pipes off ebay is not probably in the mix. Price and cost are two different things. Think about that.
Unlikely, but if your car is the rare one whose stock pre-cat/downpipe has not been changed out for a downpipe already, this should be your first (and probably only) modification during the first year imo. That pre-cat has a track record of falling apart and plugging the main cat, which can damage the engine.
Sound is subjective and an aftermarket bov adds nothing to performance other than that. You already have one btw...it just vents into the stock airbox and is silent. Vented to atmosphere, i think a bov's sound also varies with boost levels. The same valve might sound different at 10 psi than it does at 14 psi.
No. You have a wastegate, it's integral and internal on the stock twins.
That's a good choice. Fluidyne is also popular and there are other good choices out there. Know that fluidyne is ~ 50% larger than stock and koyo ~ 100% larger. Larger is not automatically better and the larger you go, the more fitment issues are typically encountered. A search in the 3rd. Gen. Section will be your friend here too.
Largely a decision based on the use of the car. Imo a fmic is warranted only if the car will be limited to track use. There are aftermarket smic's out there that will give decent iat's w/o all the issues and expense of a fmic. There is also 'v' mount (vmic) choices too which are excellent...just expensive and require more fabbing. Battery relocation for a streeted car is also not desirable imo. Again...search.
No. The only way you're going to make 400 whp on stock twins is by turning up the boost...alot. That will require fuel mods...bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump etc., ignition modifications, a standalone ecu and professional tuning. Those things will cost and you can't go cheap. Also know that to produce the required boost levels the twins will be out of they're efficiency range and their life span will be shortened.
11-19-13 | 02:50 PM
#39
Ehaust Setup
I felt once more that the cheap soes not come with the quality.
I did the ebay dp, mp, cb combo.
The car is too loud.
Brought it to muffler shop for adjustments and catalytic converter.
They said there is no cat that can survive with rotary heat, and it will be still loud with there cat.
My question is that if I have HKS or Bonez dp, will it fit to stock main cat?
Which is better, HKS or Bonez? I read from some where that SGTBLUE was commenting about the Bonex is better than HKS. Also, as my research, HKS is mild steel and Bonez is stainless steel. However, the Bonez have the fitment issue.
I better listen to SGTBLUE to have dp only first.
Now I will not skip AP for sure.
How about just keep the ebay combo, and just weld on the stock main cat to the mp section with ap?
Will it still be too loud?
Will it be too much restriction?
or, have hi flow cat with ap on the ebay mp section?
I love the power that I have with the straight piping, but I do not want to be too loud to wake my neighbors up.
Thanks, and I wish noobs like me to learn from this thread.
DO NOT GO CHEAP!!!
I did the ebay dp, mp, cb combo.
The car is too loud.
Brought it to muffler shop for adjustments and catalytic converter.
They said there is no cat that can survive with rotary heat, and it will be still loud with there cat.
My question is that if I have HKS or Bonez dp, will it fit to stock main cat?
Which is better, HKS or Bonez? I read from some where that SGTBLUE was commenting about the Bonex is better than HKS. Also, as my research, HKS is mild steel and Bonez is stainless steel. However, the Bonez have the fitment issue.
I better listen to SGTBLUE to have dp only first.
Now I will not skip AP for sure.
How about just keep the ebay combo, and just weld on the stock main cat to the mp section with ap?
Will it still be too loud?
Will it be too much restriction?
or, have hi flow cat with ap on the ebay mp section?
I love the power that I have with the straight piping, but I do not want to be too loud to wake my neighbors up.
Thanks, and I wish noobs like me to learn from this thread.
DO NOT GO CHEAP!!!
11-19-13 | 03:44 PM
#40
Both HKS and Bonez are good quality. But the HKS DP was designed for a RHD car. Unless you have a RHD car, I see no reason to get it and would go with the BONEZ.
Bonez also makes a high flow cat that is proven to work well and last a long time with a rotary. Mine is at least 11 years old and still going strong.
Bonez also makes a high flow cat that is proven to work well and last a long time with a rotary. Mine is at least 11 years old and still going strong.
11-19-13 | 04:20 PM
#41
Just to add something..
If your goal can be stopped aroud 340HP you can try to buy a 99+spec twin turbo from later FD serie (JDM)..these turbo can handle around 320-340HP (you still need an upgraded ECU)
If you want more on twin turbo go for BNR stage 3 twins or REVOtune (expensive)
Or go single.......
Probably i'm a fanboy but coming from motorbike i buy no other coilovers then Ohlins....or Bilstein....
Like other said over 300-320 you probably want and need new injectors, fuel line and fuel pump(time to change the damned side feed injectors with top feed)
Side feed are good for reliability....gas cool entire injectors bidy and then side feed ones can work near 100% duty cycle for more time (more then top feed) (especially in the FD Hoven...ehm engine bay)
BUT
Top feed can be removed is a easy way without disassembly half engine bay (only a quarter XD)
First of all
New fuel filter
Dual oil cooler (if you don't have)
New Radiator+New Intercooler (I go for Vmount all the way)
And remove CAT and put hear resistant "tape" or cover on turbos and exaust
Imho (and i can be wrong) with 340+ HP you can't use an engine with cat on....
If your goal can be stopped aroud 340HP you can try to buy a 99+spec twin turbo from later FD serie (JDM)..these turbo can handle around 320-340HP (you still need an upgraded ECU)
If you want more on twin turbo go for BNR stage 3 twins or REVOtune (expensive)
Or go single.......
Probably i'm a fanboy but coming from motorbike i buy no other coilovers then Ohlins....or Bilstein....
Like other said over 300-320 you probably want and need new injectors, fuel line and fuel pump(time to change the damned side feed injectors with top feed)
Side feed are good for reliability....gas cool entire injectors bidy and then side feed ones can work near 100% duty cycle for more time (more then top feed) (especially in the FD Hoven...ehm engine bay)
BUT
Top feed can be removed is a easy way without disassembly half engine bay (only a quarter XD)
First of all
New fuel filter
Dual oil cooler (if you don't have)
New Radiator+New Intercooler (I go for Vmount all the way)
And remove CAT and put hear resistant "tape" or cover on turbos and exaust
Imho (and i can be wrong) with 340+ HP you can't use an engine with cat on....
11-19-13 | 06:34 PM
#43
Both HKS and Bonez are good quality. But the HKS DP was designed for a RHD car. Unless you have a RHD car, I see no reason to get it and would go with the BONEZ.
Bonez also makes a high flow cat that is proven to work well and last a long time with a rotary. Mine is at least 11 years old and still going strong.
Bonez also makes a high flow cat that is proven to work well and last a long time with a rotary. Mine is at least 11 years old and still going strong.
11-19-13 | 06:38 PM
#45
Just to add something..
If your goal can be stopped aroud 340HP you can try to buy a 99+spec twin turbo from later FD serie (JDM)..these turbo can handle around 320-340HP (you still need an upgraded ECU)
If you want more on twin turbo go for BNR stage 3 twins or REVOtune (expensive)
Or go single.......
Probably i'm a fanboy but coming from motorbike i buy no other coilovers then Ohlins....or Bilstein....
Like other said over 300-320 you probably want and need new injectors, fuel line and fuel pump(time to change the damned side feed injectors with top feed)
Side feed are good for reliability....gas cool entire injectors bidy and then side feed ones can work near 100% duty cycle for more time (more then top feed) (especially in the FD Hoven...ehm engine bay)
BUT
Top feed can be removed is a easy way without disassembly half engine bay (only a quarter XD)
First of all
New fuel filter
Dual oil cooler (if you don't have)
New Radiator+New Intercooler (I go for Vmount all the way)
And remove CAT and put hear resistant "tape" or cover on turbos and exaust
Imho (and i can be wrong) with 340+ HP you can't use an engine with cat on....
If your goal can be stopped aroud 340HP you can try to buy a 99+spec twin turbo from later FD serie (JDM)..these turbo can handle around 320-340HP (you still need an upgraded ECU)
If you want more on twin turbo go for BNR stage 3 twins or REVOtune (expensive)
Or go single.......
Probably i'm a fanboy but coming from motorbike i buy no other coilovers then Ohlins....or Bilstein....
Like other said over 300-320 you probably want and need new injectors, fuel line and fuel pump(time to change the damned side feed injectors with top feed)
Side feed are good for reliability....gas cool entire injectors bidy and then side feed ones can work near 100% duty cycle for more time (more then top feed) (especially in the FD Hoven...ehm engine bay)
BUT
Top feed can be removed is a easy way without disassembly half engine bay (only a quarter XD)
First of all
New fuel filter
Dual oil cooler (if you don't have)
New Radiator+New Intercooler (I go for Vmount all the way)
And remove CAT and put hear resistant "tape" or cover on turbos and exaust
Imho (and i can be wrong) with 340+ HP you can't use an engine with cat on....
Thanks!!!
11-19-13 | 06:39 PM
#46
to start i would look at the reliability of the car first.
1. silicone vacuum lines is a must.
2. aluminum AST
3. aluminum radiator
4. i also like to put a oil pellet in, i have had the stock set-up fail
5. look at your oil coolers and lines.
6. do a turbo back exhaust
7. 99 spec Y pipe and Greddy elbow
8. upgrade the intercooler
9. upgrade the fuel pump and injectors
10. put a Power FC on the car
all these mods will help keep the car alive and running strong. they will also help you make the power your after. also remember you have a stock block so the longevity of the engine will be a ? iam all about making power with a car that will last, and we haven't even talked about the rest of the car.
1. silicone vacuum lines is a must.
2. aluminum AST
3. aluminum radiator
4. i also like to put a oil pellet in, i have had the stock set-up fail
5. look at your oil coolers and lines.
6. do a turbo back exhaust
7. 99 spec Y pipe and Greddy elbow
8. upgrade the intercooler
9. upgrade the fuel pump and injectors
10. put a Power FC on the car
all these mods will help keep the car alive and running strong. they will also help you make the power your after. also remember you have a stock block so the longevity of the engine will be a ? iam all about making power with a car that will last, and we haven't even talked about the rest of the car.
Thanks!
11-19-13 | 08:09 PM
#47
I have a Greddy SP. Also over 11 yrs old as it came with the car. Very good quality in materials and construction, and it flows and sounds great except for some drone at highway cruise. But personally I don't like it's looks.
11-19-13 | 08:27 PM
#48
