aTxRx7

Even though I've been a member for a long time...I don't post a lot (but I do search a lot ), so I'll try here first:

While pulling my water pump housing to replace the thermosensor and back end gasket, I carelessly did not disconnect the battery. I dropped a socket in the alternator area which caused an arc. Went on for a few seconds and then stopped.

Of course when I went to start the car after my repair, I notice that while components like the head lights, starter, a/c, etc. work; things like the dash and tail lights don't. I don't have the wiring diagram with me as I write this, but it seems like all of the components that have fuses in the joint box under the driver's seat are not working. All of the fuses under the hood look just fine, and all of the joint box fuses that I checked seem to be fine too. Is there a fuse of some sort that connects the battery to the joint box that I've overlooked?

I'm really new to diagnosing these type of issues, so any insight that you might be able to provide is appreciated. Sounds like I now have an excuse for buying a voltmeter (just need to know how to use it )

Thanks in advance,
Jesse

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

You're right, now is the time to get a multimeter. Test the fuses with it rather than checking by eye. Sometimes they can be blown, but still look ok. And the interior fuse box is powered through the 80A (or 100A) main fuse. If this popped, almost nothing would work. If you're lucky some of those interior fuses may have blown. If you're unlucky you could have some fried electronics.

aTxRx7

Thanks. I'll get one and see what I can find.

whitelight7

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like you are off to a good start by identifying/narrowing to the Joint Box. Search the 3rd Gen forum (or internet) to find more info on fuses, or even better a copy of an FD electrical schematic.
For starters, the 3-terminal vertical connector on back of the JB, w/ 3 big wires, is the main power into the JB. B/Y wire is Igniton2; L (blue) wire is ACC; B/W wire is Ignition1. These should each have 12V, depending on position of igniton switch.

clint999

Thanks. I'll get one and see what I can find.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/94-fsms-available-download-449950/

aTxRx7

Thanks all for the help.

This morning, I was finally able to get some stuff done in the daylight (been doing this mostly at night in a garage with poor lighting). After pulling out the main 120A I could finally clearly see that it was fried (couldn't tell that before...even in the daylight). I guess that makes sense, since I had dropped the socket near the alternator wire (yes I'm still kicking my own *** for not taking off the negative in the first place).

Thanks again for the help. After getting a replacement fuse, maybe I can now get back to my original issue (coolant leak...fingers crossed that it's not an O-ring issue). If I can get this all done, looks like I'll be rewarded with a beautiful Austin day for a victory drive.