Engine cuts out at around 3800 RPM
04-24-10, 03:06 PM
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Engine cuts out at around 3800 RPM
I've had my FC now for about 2 months. Aside from the oil seals being gone (I uses a gallon of oil a week almost) it's been an alright car.
--------
It's a 1986 Rx-7, I'm not sure on anything other than that.
It is a 5-speed
13b n/a
---------
The problem with the car is after about an hour of driving (normal driving) it starts to cut out once I reach 3000-4000 RPM.
It starts at about 5000 RPM and gets progressively worse, sometimes so bad it cuts out below 3000 RPM.
After reading Icemark's FAQ post, I checked my grounds, cleaned them, and secured them back.
I was told that the corrosion around the bolts on the actual motor is from it overheating. I bought it from a mechanic who had no idea what he was doing and sold it due to the original owner not paying a bill. I don't know anything about the car's past except for a few receipts showing basic upkeep purchases.
I'm hoping it's not to big of a deal since I'm planning on finding an S4 13b turbo to swap in when I get the money, however, until then, I would like to have the car running since it's an extremely fun car.
So to recap what I am posting about in case I lost some of you:
1986 RX-7 n/a (5-speed)
Cuts out at 3000-4000RPM once it warms up (it starts jerking and refuses to accelerate)
Only does it after it's driven for 45m-1hr, or has been driven kind of hard.
--------
It's a 1986 Rx-7, I'm not sure on anything other than that.
It is a 5-speed
13b n/a
---------
The problem with the car is after about an hour of driving (normal driving) it starts to cut out once I reach 3000-4000 RPM.
It starts at about 5000 RPM and gets progressively worse, sometimes so bad it cuts out below 3000 RPM.
After reading Icemark's FAQ post, I checked my grounds, cleaned them, and secured them back.
I was told that the corrosion around the bolts on the actual motor is from it overheating. I bought it from a mechanic who had no idea what he was doing and sold it due to the original owner not paying a bill. I don't know anything about the car's past except for a few receipts showing basic upkeep purchases.
I'm hoping it's not to big of a deal since I'm planning on finding an S4 13b turbo to swap in when I get the money, however, until then, I would like to have the car running since it's an extremely fun car.
So to recap what I am posting about in case I lost some of you:
1986 RX-7 n/a (5-speed)
Cuts out at 3000-4000RPM once it warms up (it starts jerking and refuses to accelerate)
Only does it after it's driven for 45m-1hr, or has been driven kind of hard.
04-25-10, 10:17 AM
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm
I was told that the corrosion around the bolts on the actual motor is from it overheating.
Anyway, after checking the grounds as shown in my writeup, test the TPS while the car is both cold and warm. Also, check the boost sensor on the passenger shock tower. This is harder to test, so it may be easier to just swap in a known good unit from another car.
04-25-10, 01:25 PM
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Thanks, will check those 2 sensors.
As for the corrosion around the bolts, were they right? Wrong? Just wondering because once I get my new motor I was going to tear into this one and try to become more familiar with it. If it's not worth trying my hand at rebuilding I would like to know before I go spending more money.
As for the corrosion around the bolts, were they right? Wrong? Just wondering because once I get my new motor I was going to tear into this one and try to become more familiar with it. If it's not worth trying my hand at rebuilding I would like to know before I go spending more money.
04-25-10, 04:40 PM
#4
As for the corrosion around the bolts, were they right? Wrong? Just wondering because once I get my new motor I was going to tear into this one and try to become more familiar with it. If it's not worth trying my hand at rebuilding I would like to know before I go spending more money.
04-29-10, 01:55 AM
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I take it that you mean it runs poorly and loses power under acceleration, once it has been driven for 45min +; I assume that it runs ok at cruise?
The temperature related nature suggests: water thermosensor, intake air temp sensor (AFM), intake air temp sensor (plenum).
At power suggests TPS.
Check for trouble codes, and verify closed loop operation. If those are ok, look to see what the rich/lean flag is reporting during the problem. Under acceleration, it should be rich all the way up. If it goes out (lean), that suggests the bucking is due to going too lean under acceleration.
The rich/lean flag (also called the 'monitor lamp', or the 'green lamp') is the bottom center pin in the green 6 pin test connector. It goes to ground when the ECU sees a rich condition, and it goes high impedance when the ECU sees a lean condition.
The temperature related nature suggests: water thermosensor, intake air temp sensor (AFM), intake air temp sensor (plenum).
At power suggests TPS.
Check for trouble codes, and verify closed loop operation. If those are ok, look to see what the rich/lean flag is reporting during the problem. Under acceleration, it should be rich all the way up. If it goes out (lean), that suggests the bucking is due to going too lean under acceleration.
The rich/lean flag (also called the 'monitor lamp', or the 'green lamp') is the bottom center pin in the green 6 pin test connector. It goes to ground when the ECU sees a rich condition, and it goes high impedance when the ECU sees a lean condition.
01-08-11, 12:53 AM
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In the end, the whole problem was caused due to lack of back pressure. The gaskets on my exhaust were falling apart. Took getting stranded to figure that out >.<
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01-15-11, 01:08 AM
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01-18-11, 11:51 PM
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make sure your wires have a good connection on the angle sensor.. i think thats what it is lol. looks kind of like a distributor. mine was doing the same thing. it was acting like it had a rev limiter at 3k-4k rpms. i unpluged it and pluged it back up made sure it was nice and tight and it fixed it. also make sure your plugs, wires and coils are in good working order.
02-24-11, 08:20 PM
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Lol nah, I was using close to a gallon a month, needed a rebuild...BAD.
As for the current situation, the car is hopefully going to end up in Rotaryinspired's shop for a bit for a TII swap.
As for the current situation, the car is hopefully going to end up in Rotaryinspired's shop for a bit for a TII swap.
Last edited by Silvertear; 02-24-11 at 08:23 PM.
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