These are the modifications done to my 1990 rx7 vert before i bought it. I am in need of assistance for what to do since I use my car as a daily driver but still want to drift it on the tracks. I am very new to the rotary engine so I dont know much. This is my project car so I am planning on ripping the whole thing apart and starting from scratch. I just need guidence in what parts to get when it come to replacing parts of my rx7 for drifting.



current modifications

>Street ported 13BT blueprinted and balanced ,using Mazda OEM
> rebuilt kit+new rotor houisings
> Garrett TO4 turbo,
> APEX limited edition Power FC
> 3 BAR Map APEX-i sensor ,
> Supra TT Denso fuel pump,
> Greddy frount mount intercooler,
> HKS intake ,
> HKS hyper twin 3" exhaust,
> Racing beat downpipe
> 18" wheels with new tires,
> RC 1300cc secondary injectors,
> Blitz Blow off valve,
> steel braided fuel lines,
> NGK spark plug wires
> Shine auto body kit
> APC carbon fiber hood
>Koyo high performance radiator

 

LSD if you dont already have it... and some springs wouldnt be nice or coil overs

 

ya u basically have nothing other than power..gonna need coilovers...(lowering spring will work but not as good).....struts...chambers....2way lsd you wont need to get right away...you need seat time to learn your car.....your next step should be to make your car solid...eliminate body roll.......and tuck that tire!!!!!!

 

polyurethane bushings all the way around, and good shock/springs or coilovers.

and a seat.


then its all about learning the car

 

Thanks for the Tips. Now here is my next question. Which Coilovers, LSD, struts and chambers would you recommend? I am currently looking at a KAAZ 2 way LSD and JIC coiloever but I am not sure if it will do the job.

 

the main thing you need is seat time and practice. once you get out there and feel the car out and what it is and isn't doing, that will tell you what parts you NEED.

An LSD is definitely needed. Whether it is a stock one or a KAAZ is dependent on budget.

Suspension is helpful but so long as you get one that is long lasting and reliable you should be OK. Something where you can swap out spring rates inexpensively is useful.

Unless you just feel like modding parts for the sake of spending money and modding.

 

Hi Dave ..just a note what rpm are you going to run at I think you might look at Trying a hybred T3 T4 they spool a lot faster (short tracks) also If you run the T4 pull the 1300 cc Inj and stick in at least a pair of 1600cc RCs if you have fuel pressure to match she'll push 400 hp at the wheels at 20PSI also try a larger set of sway bars( Racing beat) It will help you toss it easier ,note pull out the hand brake locking device(Rachet) that way you can play with the rear hand brake without having to worry about accidently locking the rear brakes, also for suspension spring it soft and shock it hard , you will have all the control you want hope it helps....959595rotor

 

You need an lsd (or if you have a extra center) weld it. and go to events and start practicing. You dont "need" anything to start drifting besides a rwd car. Ive seen guys with stock suspension240sx kill it at events. get out there and oractice...thats the only mod you need to start drifting.

 

if you weld it expect more attention than usual going threw a parking lot hahah.

 

Don't forget to get modified engine mounts or an engine torque brace bar to support all that stress while your shitfing, popping the clutch, e braking and what ever you do to get your drift on.

 

well me and my friend go drifting and we got an open diff but its not the same as an lsd its
harder to drift but again im cheap and if you got money seriously get an LSD.

 

Learn with an open diff. Its harder now but you will learn the skill of drifting not just power over and the clutch kick. Or autox your car Grip>Drift.

 

it will be very hard to do long drifts with open diff or worn out LSD. the car will be less predictable.

you need good LSD (Kaaz) or welded.

also coilovers are important. stock suspension (or any shock/spring combo) has way too much preload/travel.

JICs are good coils. try to stay away from used coils, cause people sell them for a reason. coils dont really last too long on the street. they are made for flat roads. potholes, bumps and driveways will destroy them. dont try to go for high spring rates.

you will need things like, steering spacers or front spindle mod, rear camber adjusters...

dont try to eliminate body roll with swaybars. as a beginner you will benefit from longer transition time. so keep stock sway bars, some people even remove the rear swaybar...

turbo FC is not a beginner car. it's better to learn on n/a fc or a 240.

daily driving a drift car is torture on your back. when driving over patch of water at freeway speeds, you'll have no steering feel, very scary. driving in rain, very very scary.

 

like Petex and Super6 said its harder to do long drifts but i now know how to do long drifts on
an open diff and even longer drifts on an lsd its all practice and good worn out tires in the rain
to help out the sliding. and a big empty parking lot

 

have you gotten rear sway bars, lower struts, and front strut bars?

 

i got a completely stock 90gxl aas (auto adjusting suspension stock bushing which are pretty
stiff) only mods are air filter and rice exhaust which hate hks hi power silent (wouldn't recomend) and i also got a stage 2 clutch the pics will say it all also its an
open diff but like i said it good to practice on an open diff cause once you get
in an lsd there are some little changes but you will get it in on your first try.

the rice exhaust and yes it did get hit hard but you cant tell now

old clutch
new clutch stage2

 

i have an 88 gxl which i belive comes with a lsd from the factory is the stock gxl a good car to learn on?

 

everyone in my area just do V8 swaps

 

NA FC= Will only drift in the rain and will drift with stock suspension. good leaner car but very difficult when dry even with lsd because of no power!

T2 or greater= Will drift great with lsd and suspension (coil overs or spring + strut combo) maybe strut bars at very least... then of course theres a clutch and flywheel and bushings and solid mounts, sway bars, roll cage, camber kit, dont forget the DTSS eliminator bushings


drifting sucks and doughnuts are gay w/out an lsd no offense to anyone out there because i had none for the longest. and yes there is a huge difference between the two... so its just best to start w/an lsd or get one first. ppl do laugh if youre trying to burn out or do doughnuts and only one tire is spinning because its just not cool if you aint spinnin and smokin your tires!!!

from what ive seen ppl dont take too kindly to v8 swaps round here but to each his own

 

There you go. A guy who knows how to drive giving practical advice!

 

p.s...

DRIFT>grip

 

I like drifting in my vert because of the diff, I then took the vert and put it into my cousins 86 base. Thing is fun as hell to drift and in my opinion easier initially than the t2 because of lack of low end power. You always have to wait for boost and then it is usually too much.

 

i'm getting my S4 N/T together as well. I'm thinking about going for the K-Sport Drift Coilovers and Cusco 2-way RS type LSD. I got a Energy Suspension Hyperflex kit I'm gonna install soon, and i'm getting some 15" MB Five-X wheels to replace the stock ones from Discount tires.

Does anyone know if it matters what size lip you have on your wheels for drifting?

And is there anything to be concerned about when lowering the FC3S chassis for drifting and daily driving?

 

DTSS Eliminator bushings, camber kit (which should be on your coilovers)

lip size no matter, offset does. tire width matters too of course slimmer tires in back fat tires in front