Disconnected Air Lines Found
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Disconnected Air Lines Found
It's a 1986 GXL N/A. I found 2 disconnected air lines on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I am almost certain that they are for the catalytic converter.
I took some pics:
Little line 1
Little line 2
Big line 1
Big line 2
There is no cat, but the shell is still there. The little one is attached to the air control valve. The big one is attached to the back of the intake manifold. I could not get a picture of the attachment point, but it's back there. I think they are the two lines that would go to the split air pipe that attaches to the catalytic converter.
What happens if I leave them disconnected? I may be crazy, but what I am certain is the actuator, which can be seen in Big Line 2, is stuck to leave the secondary valves open all the time.
I took some pics:
Little line 1
Little line 2
Big line 1
Big line 2
There is no cat, but the shell is still there. The little one is attached to the air control valve. The big one is attached to the back of the intake manifold. I could not get a picture of the attachment point, but it's back there. I think they are the two lines that would go to the split air pipe that attaches to the catalytic converter.
What happens if I leave them disconnected? I may be crazy, but what I am certain is the actuator, which can be seen in Big Line 2, is stuck to leave the secondary valves open all the time.
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It's a 1986 GXL N/A. I found 2 disconnected air lines on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I am almost certain that they are for the catalytic converter.
I took some pics:
Little line 1
I took some pics:
Little line 1
And that might be the line that went to the now-missing split air pipe.
What happens if I leave them disconnected? I may be crazy, but what I am certain is the actuator, which can be seen in Big Line 2, is stuck to leave the secondary valves open all the time.
The missing split air pipe doesn't matter if the car is catless, but you should finish the job by removing the ACV and blocking it off.
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The car is catless, and the air pump is present. The story is that the exhaust pipe had rotted out from pre cat 2 all the way back, so the previous owner removed it all. In it's place he put in a straight pipe with a single muffler and no Y-pipe. He also got rid of the split air pipe.
So my options are:
1) Replace the catalytic converter. Technically for Texas State Safety inspection, this needs to be done. While I am excused from the emissions test for being too old, the safety test DOES have a requirement to visually inspect for the presence of the converter AND proper connection of the air lines. In reality, I may or may not get away with it, I can't tell. If I fail it, I have 15 days to get it inspected and returned to the station.
2)Leave the cat off and make the modifications you suggested.
3)Remove the rest of the air injection system, pump included, and get the aux port actuators to permanently stick open to leave the aux ports open all the time.
Thanks for the info.
So my options are:
1) Replace the catalytic converter. Technically for Texas State Safety inspection, this needs to be done. While I am excused from the emissions test for being too old, the safety test DOES have a requirement to visually inspect for the presence of the converter AND proper connection of the air lines. In reality, I may or may not get away with it, I can't tell. If I fail it, I have 15 days to get it inspected and returned to the station.
2)Leave the cat off and make the modifications you suggested.
3)Remove the rest of the air injection system, pump included, and get the aux port actuators to permanently stick open to leave the aux ports open all the time.
Thanks for the info.
Last edited by TX_RX; 02-10-10 at 09:08 PM.
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Never leave the ports open all the time. The reduction of low end torque makes the car slower and there is no gain up top over properly working ports.
I guess the easiest thing for you to do is eliminate the secondary air system and take a risk with the safety test.
But it sounds like the best approach is to get an aftermarket high flow cat (ie. from Rotary Performance) and replace that entire damaged section, then reinstall a split air pipe, hook up the ACV, etc.
I guess the easiest thing for you to do is eliminate the secondary air system and take a risk with the safety test.
But it sounds like the best approach is to get an aftermarket high flow cat (ie. from Rotary Performance) and replace that entire damaged section, then reinstall a split air pipe, hook up the ACV, etc.
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Thank you for your help. I thought I recognized your screen name. Your website is quite informative.
Catalytic Converter. Is this "Bonez" catalytic converter the one you refer to? It says "for use with racing beat street header". Do you know if it can be used with the stock manifold/pre cats?
It DOES run as is, I was able to get it to the inspection station (where they informed me that a taped on tail lamp lens is unacceptable; I thought that tape OVER the lens is bad, but tape around the lens is OK; I was mistaken). The easiest way is to risk the safety test as is, and deal with the secondary air system later (but soon).
Catalytic Converter. Is this "Bonez" catalytic converter the one you refer to? It says "for use with racing beat street header". Do you know if it can be used with the stock manifold/pre cats?
It DOES run as is, I was able to get it to the inspection station (where they informed me that a taped on tail lamp lens is unacceptable; I thought that tape OVER the lens is bad, but tape around the lens is OK; I was mistaken). The easiest way is to risk the safety test as is, and deal with the secondary air system later (but soon).
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The cat alone only seems to fit the RB header, but the "Street Exhaust System" has a downpipe, resonator and cat that is designed to bolt in place of the three stock cats from the manifold to the catback. That's what I was thinking of. I ran one for years and was happy with it. Quiet, a bit more power and the car passed emissions.
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Thank you for your information.
$440 is alot of money right now for me. I think I would rather install a more basic catalytic converter. Plus I fully intend to enter this car in SCCA Autocross, so I need to be careful about what I do to the car to be sure I don't get thrown into a class I don't want to be in.
I think that covers what I need to know.
$440 is alot of money right now for me. I think I would rather install a more basic catalytic converter. Plus I fully intend to enter this car in SCCA Autocross, so I need to be careful about what I do to the car to be sure I don't get thrown into a class I don't want to be in.
I think that covers what I need to know.
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