Hi guys!

My car is FD3S -92 (JDM) and I'm going to replace the clutch, since it's slipping as hell.

Today I started to take everything apart.
Took off:
- prop. shaft
- exhaust (everything after downpipe)
- tunnel reinforcements
- connectors (from side of the transmission)
- "service hole covers A & B")
- 5 bolts that are holding the clutch cover*
(* I'm not sure if this is the right word for that piece)

But after these I didn't manage to take control of "clutch release collar".

Do I have to take off the clutch release cylinder before going any further on the job?
- If so, should I open it just by taking off the two bolts holding it on it's place?
- How do I push the "release collar" towards the clutch collar?
- How much do I have to move the transmission towards the back of the car before it comes off?

I'm sorry if the message is hard to read, but I think You guys will still understand my
english better than my native language, which is finnish

Lots of thanks already in advance for everyone who will try to help me

- Tapsa

 

D'Oh!! Rlsd thread for bump...let's hear it from the FD crowd...

Mario III

 

Yes, you first unbolt the slave cylinder.

There is a video link showing how to release the throwout bearing. It's in the FAQ under "Clutch".
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

Dave

 

Thanks Dave!

Yes, I already found that video when I tried to make a search here.

Is it also possible to take off the tranny by opening
only the bolts on pressure plate & the clutch housing?
Or do I still have to take off the slave cylinder?

And one more:
When releasing the throwout bearing, it has to be worked on both sides of it.
If I put another tool (long screwdriver) through the inspection hole (B),
does the other screwdriver go through the starters hole or some other hole?

 

Yes I think if you unbolt the pressure plate bolts you can leave the slave cylinder in place. However remember to disconnect the hydraulic line.

I have not needed to use a second tool to release the t/o bearing. The bearing stays aligned and it will pop free with only one screwdriver from the inspection hole.

Dave

 

Thanks again Dave

I have to try taking it off without dismantling the slave cyl.
But I think that for some reason t/o bearing on my RX-7
doesn't move when pushed only on the other side.

 

Holá amigos y amigas!

Big thanks for everyone who helped me with this one..
It was fun to notice how easy this job was, even I don't
have so much previous experience on working with cars,
actually this was my 1st time disassembling the clutch and tranny.

When living here in Finland it's always really hard when working
on the chassis, since they put a LOT of salt on the roads here
during wintertime, You guys know what that means,
a lot of cursing under the car and broken bolts etc..

It was really fun to work with this car, since it's a JDM.
All the bolts came off more than easily!

Here are few (crappy quality) pictures of the project.


Started by taking a bit of weight off..


Here we can see everything on the table after dismantling..


Flywheel is worn out a bit..


..more on the outer surface..


This is a really crappy one, but it shows that I was able to put a 0.15mm (I think it's about 0.0059in) feeler cauge on the outer surface.. Is it absolutely needed to straighten up?
And if so, is there any minimum thickness on the flywheel?


Pressure plate was also pretty worn out..


"Maybe here's the reason why I had to push the car the last 3 meters when going to carage " I just wonder why it didn't make any bad noises earlier..


Of course there was also some problems..
One of the two thread holes on the housing which keep the fork on it's place broke off,
leaving only two full threads on the bottom.
Is this material aluminium cast or something else?


Maybe it can be welded back?


End of the day.
My baby is now waiting for new parts with some other cars,
for example with my friend's S13K and my Vw Corrado 1.8T 20v engine swap

 

Regarding the broken piece: can you show a picture of how it looks where it broke off? I can't recognize what that piece is yet.

In any case I recommend replacing the clutch fork. Mazda sells replacements that don't seem to break as often, and with a 3-puck clutch you will want the extra strength.

Dave

 

Have to take better photo to You!
It's from the bell housing.

 

Hi Again Dave!

Found another pic, though it's as crappy as all of the previous..

The clutch fork is working normally.
The piece that broke was from the housing, not from the fork.

I'm going to replace the clutch with ACT or Centerforce Dual Friction.
Lets see how quick the deliveries are, looks like Atkinson Rotary
will be faster and cheaper than any other.

 

Eww, that's going to require a new bellhousing. You don't want to weld it because that will distort the bellhousing and it has precision machined surfaces in that area.

I would actually replace the bellhousing end (used part should be fine) and replace the big bearing behind it while youre' in there.

Dave