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car wont stay running possible vacuum leak?

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Old 08-29-12 | 03:25 PM
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jamesahokas's Avatar
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From: ottawa
car wont stay running possible vacuum leak?

hey guys i finally got my car back together last night and test fired it for the first time since owning it. it would fire up right away but then die 2 seconds later, i could keep the car running if the gas pedal was slightly pressed down. i came across a few possible vacuum issues however even after looking at diagrams cannot quite tell whats going on. anyways according to a picture i found online the way that my vacuum lines are incorrect here. can anyone confirm this?



i have the primary air bleed hooked up to the top nipple on the upper intake on the side. the second air nipple is capped and im using the bottom air nipple directly for my boost gauge.

i also just noticed today that i have a nipple that is open on the middle iron DS. and i dont see any hoses that it would connect too



and lastly an open nipple on the oil feed tube ive seen this one run to an oil catch can before but can it just be capped?



the motor is an s4 88 motor

MODS DONE
-rtek 2.1
-750cc injectors
-full straight exhaust
- new cone filter
-full emissions delete
-omp delete, running strictly premix
i also have a wideband to read my afr

anyways any help would be great im very green to rotaries, last night was the first time starting it and when i couldnt get it to stay running i figured it would be better to ask. thanks!
Old 08-29-12 | 07:53 PM
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
the middle iron nipple usually has a hose that goes to the charcoal canister.
Do NOT cap off the Oil tube nipple or the middle Iron nipple.They need ventilation or you will get Blow by the oil control rings,oil consumption,smoke,etc.
You can run both of those to a catch can,or T them together and just run a length of hose to atmosphere for now.
Is your AFM plugged in.
The RTEK has a start up fuel map,so maybe you can get pointers in the RTEK Section of the forum.
Old 08-29-12 | 08:53 PM
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jamesahokas's Avatar
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
the middle iron nipple usually has a hose that goes to the charcoal canister.
Do NOT cap off the Oil tube nipple or the middle Iron nipple.They need ventilation or you will get Blow by the oil control rings,oil consumption,smoke,etc.
You can run both of those to a catch can,or T them together and just run a length of hose to atmosphere for now.
Is your AFM plugged in.
The RTEK has a start up fuel map,so maybe you can get pointers in the RTEK Section of the forum.
ok thanks i will route them to a catch can then. ya my afm is plugged in ive gone through a couple things now and they all seem to check out. one guy in the rtek section said that he has 750cc injectors as well and he has to run the rtek on the 550/720cc injector setting because his would not idle either.
Old 08-29-12 | 11:39 PM
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
I had 4x750 on the 720/720 setting.
I went to 750/1000 at one point.
...
If you can enter the start up map you can alter the fuel.My Map made my car not want to start after it ran.It was due to the fuel not being carried out over the temp scale.(from cold to when the engine got hot)
Old 08-30-12 | 07:02 AM
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From: ottawa
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
I had 4x750 on the 720/720 setting.
I went to 750/1000 at one point.
...
If you can enter the start up map you can alter the fuel.My Map made my car not want to start after it ran.It was due to the fuel not being carried out over the temp scale.(from cold to when the engine got hot)
hmm ok because when i have it hooked up to the ecu all my map reads is zeros throughout so should i just start taking away fuel slightly at low rpm to get it to idle? im gonna read the entire pocketlogger manual tonight hopefully that will help me im still lost as to how to use it properly.
Old 08-31-12 | 06:26 PM
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jamesahokas's Avatar
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found my injector grommets are old and leak air when the manifold is pressurized with air. ordered new ones from mazdatrix, problem should be solved
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