blown coolant seal+evans coolant
#1
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86 fc3s base model
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From: southern oregon
blown coolant seal+evans coolant
i read a couple threads here that deal with the evans coolant topic...learned a few things however, i got bored of reading thru a "group buy" topic in the wrong section.
anyhow, im curious about what some of the 'evans experienced' think about attempting evans coolant in a motor that has a known coolant seal blown.
car still drives, and i dont get gushing from the filler cap(just bubbles and exhaust smell/fumes) so the seal cant be too bad yet.
here's my thought; im getting ready to drive my s4 na 3200miles across the country. once i get there ill rebuild so im just tryin to buy some time...im already planning that i wont be able to use most components from the core for the rebuild.
that been said, im considering useing that irontite blockweld in attempts to seal the internal coolant leak at least a little better than its current state. thereafter, im considering useing the evans coolant however, a few things on the side of cleanliness are of concern.
i read that in order for the evans to work properly, the cooling system needs to be extremely clean. im not so much concerned about making sure all the H2O gets out as there are several ways to execute that. what concerns me more is, at times when i take spark plugs out to inspect and clean i see water/tiny peices of rust on the tip of the plug!
i can assume that there is rust forming on the bottom of one of my rotor houseings as it settles over night. this is a daily driver btw.
so in conclusion, if there's any of you that can offer suggestions pertaining to useing irontite then useing evans coolant afterwards in an engine with a blown coolant seal in preparation of a 3200 mile trip, please do...im all ears and would very much appreciate any advice.
also, keep in mind that im merely trying to buy time to complete that 3200 mi trip. once there, rebuild time...thanks guys, much.
anyhow, im curious about what some of the 'evans experienced' think about attempting evans coolant in a motor that has a known coolant seal blown.
car still drives, and i dont get gushing from the filler cap(just bubbles and exhaust smell/fumes) so the seal cant be too bad yet.
here's my thought; im getting ready to drive my s4 na 3200miles across the country. once i get there ill rebuild so im just tryin to buy some time...im already planning that i wont be able to use most components from the core for the rebuild.
that been said, im considering useing that irontite blockweld in attempts to seal the internal coolant leak at least a little better than its current state. thereafter, im considering useing the evans coolant however, a few things on the side of cleanliness are of concern.
i read that in order for the evans to work properly, the cooling system needs to be extremely clean. im not so much concerned about making sure all the H2O gets out as there are several ways to execute that. what concerns me more is, at times when i take spark plugs out to inspect and clean i see water/tiny peices of rust on the tip of the plug!
i can assume that there is rust forming on the bottom of one of my rotor houseings as it settles over night. this is a daily driver btw.
so in conclusion, if there's any of you that can offer suggestions pertaining to useing irontite then useing evans coolant afterwards in an engine with a blown coolant seal in preparation of a 3200 mile trip, please do...im all ears and would very much appreciate any advice.
also, keep in mind that im merely trying to buy time to complete that 3200 mi trip. once there, rebuild time...thanks guys, much.
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
A car that has a blown water seal shouldn't be driven unless the problem is very minor. It would be a waste of effort and money to run Evans in an engine that will just burn it away.
Honestly I'd suggest confirming that a seal is bad by using a cooling system pressure tester. If you do have a bad seal, now is the time to rebuild the engine before it lets go and you trash the whole engine.
Honestly I'd suggest confirming that a seal is bad by using a cooling system pressure tester. If you do have a bad seal, now is the time to rebuild the engine before it lets go and you trash the whole engine.
#3
Thread Starter
86 fc3s base model
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 145
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From: southern oregon
thanks for the quick response. im planning on getting all new parts anyway, so if the insides get trashed, no big deal.
i understand that the 'rebuild now' is a great idea and i agree. however, here on the west coast, dont have too many oppertunities to make money. unemployment is very high. i got a house in which i can stay in ohio with a garage to do my work, and a chance to make some money. there is where i would like to do my rebuild so i dont have to be subjected to the weather...it will be my first rebuild btw.
i havent done the coolant test yet. i took my filler cap off and saw a little exhaust smoke come out when i pulled the accelerator cable, so i figured its safe to assume that its a minor seal hole. it didnt gush coolant so i think its not so bad, plus it starts up on the first try everytime, although it takes a little longer than i would prefer.
basically im just trying to buy 3200 miles. maybe you could help me understand, whats the worst that can happen to the motor trying to drive it that far? compression drops so low that it wont start? then maybe i can just push start it for the 3 or 4 days that it takes to drive out that way?
got triple A also. just a thought for food, i might be able to make enough money to do a rebuild in arizona, what you think i should shoot for, $2500? assuming that the irons are good and the rotors can be cleaned up and re-used? also, oil system seems to be working just fine so i think i'll be able too re-use those components as well. just a ball prk figure if you could, would be really helpful.
again thanks alot for all your help!
pardon the misspelled words and incorrect grammer please, typeing quick w/o a whole lot of time.
i understand that the 'rebuild now' is a great idea and i agree. however, here on the west coast, dont have too many oppertunities to make money. unemployment is very high. i got a house in which i can stay in ohio with a garage to do my work, and a chance to make some money. there is where i would like to do my rebuild so i dont have to be subjected to the weather...it will be my first rebuild btw.
i havent done the coolant test yet. i took my filler cap off and saw a little exhaust smoke come out when i pulled the accelerator cable, so i figured its safe to assume that its a minor seal hole. it didnt gush coolant so i think its not so bad, plus it starts up on the first try everytime, although it takes a little longer than i would prefer.
basically im just trying to buy 3200 miles. maybe you could help me understand, whats the worst that can happen to the motor trying to drive it that far? compression drops so low that it wont start? then maybe i can just push start it for the 3 or 4 days that it takes to drive out that way?
got triple A also. just a thought for food, i might be able to make enough money to do a rebuild in arizona, what you think i should shoot for, $2500? assuming that the irons are good and the rotors can be cleaned up and re-used? also, oil system seems to be working just fine so i think i'll be able too re-use those components as well. just a ball prk figure if you could, would be really helpful.
again thanks alot for all your help!
pardon the misspelled words and incorrect grammer please, typeing quick w/o a whole lot of time.
Last edited by rotary everything!; 01-23-11 at 05:11 PM.
#6
Probably a better option for you. You might even decide that you don't need to rebuild it after all.
https://www.rx7club.com//showthread.php?t=930506
.
https://www.rx7club.com//showthread.php?t=930506
.
#7
Thread Starter
86 fc3s base model
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: southern oregon
sweet, thanks for all the info guys...
im not haveing over heating problems...actually i just traveled about 1300 miles of that 3200 im planning. im currently down in arizona and had to drive thru some pretty long and steep uphills in the desert heat of day and it didnt really overheat at all. i did have to turn the heater on full blast a couple times, but i noticed that i didnt have to add any water/coolant for many miles, like 1000 miles...
judgeing from that, i may just not worry about it and do the rest of the trip and hope for the best... although i do get a bit of smoke in the morning, i noticed after i got out of the cold weather it doesnt smoke except upon start up.
so, thanks again...im off to ohio to do a rebuild...
oh yeah, also, i think i might not do that alumseal stuff cause from what ive been reading here and other places, i totally think i can make it out there
rebuild here i come...thanks alot guys.
im not haveing over heating problems...actually i just traveled about 1300 miles of that 3200 im planning. im currently down in arizona and had to drive thru some pretty long and steep uphills in the desert heat of day and it didnt really overheat at all. i did have to turn the heater on full blast a couple times, but i noticed that i didnt have to add any water/coolant for many miles, like 1000 miles...
judgeing from that, i may just not worry about it and do the rest of the trip and hope for the best... although i do get a bit of smoke in the morning, i noticed after i got out of the cold weather it doesnt smoke except upon start up.
so, thanks again...im off to ohio to do a rebuild...
oh yeah, also, i think i might not do that alumseal stuff cause from what ive been reading here and other places, i totally think i can make it out there
rebuild here i come...thanks alot guys.
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