FD3SPT

Hi again. Just to put some latest feedback, I went through it with a 20W50 Dino from FUCHS. Most of the makes you guys suggest don't exist here in Portugal and for example a 10W30 seem's rare or inexistent here.

http://www.fuchs.com.au/categories.asp?cID=9&c=263657
The change of oil and air filter went easy. Around 4.5L were drainned he near the same amount inserted

Prices: 30€ for 6L

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

That's a fine choice for your engine oil. The reason why you see such broad opinions on engine oil is because it's just not that critical. What's more important IMO is to keep track of fuel dilution and use an oil you can afford to change frequently enough to manage the dilution.

Many of the products we mention are probably not available in Portugal. If you have access to the Fuchs line I'd suggest Titan Gear HLS in the rear axle and Titan Supergear 80w-90 or Titan Gear SAE 75w-90 in the transmission. If there are other brands you have better access to just mention them and I'll have a look at their product line.

FD3SPT

Thanks alot mate

I think in this shop I actually find some Redline which I saw mentioned but must be specific. I'll hold those changes a bit for while since my car has only 42.000 Km's

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I would change the gear and transmission oil now.

FD3SPT

(to avoid making a new thread, necro bumping this one)

Would appreciate some feedback. I'm not sure if I got Fuchs on sale and the prices


Engine Oil:
- have "Titan GT SAE 20W50" ;
- new option "Motul Classic SAE 20W50" (http://www.motul.com/es/en/products/69[/url]) ;
EDIT: just noticed it is API SF..

Transmission Oil:
- possible option "Fuchs" - need to check the shop later on and prices ;
- new option "MOTUL Gear 300 75W90" (Welcome to Motul - used in racing according to website/brand)

Differencial Oil:
- possible option "Fuchs" - need to check the shop later on and prices ;
- new option "MOTUL Gear 300 75W90" - same as Transmission, which isn't cheap (17€ for 1L) ;


Will also change cooling liquid , air, oil and fuel filters

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Based on what I use in my car, I would select these Motul products:
Engine Oil: 15w-50 synthetic Motul - All Products - 300V COMPETITION 15W50
Transmission: Gear 300 75w-90 Motul - All Products - Gear 300 75W90 or Motylgear 75w90 Motul - All Products - Motylgear 75W90

Differential: In the Motul product line, it's the same as the transmission.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

What's so special about this motul oil? I always just used castrol gtx,20w50 or 10w30 depending on climate.

I like the convenience of it being available at any auto parts store and Walmart.

Rotary >Pistons

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

The OP is in Portugal. Probably not alot of Walmarts around. And certain brands may not easily be available.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Oic, I'm on here through the mobile app.

I'm still not sure what oil I'll go with since I may or may not block off the omp.

Rotary >Pistons

FD3SPT

Someone already clarified Being in Portugal is very hard to find a solid base of options like most of you guys across the ocean have.

For the engine, beside the 20W50 from Fuchs and Motul (inferior API so I already removed this as an option), I also found from Wolf, which is out of stock at the moment.
On Monday I will see if I have any other options.

For Transmission and Rear Axle I'll decide between the Motul 300 or the Fuchs line on the same day. Will review their technical data and price per Litre.

max0911

iTrader: (1)

Brad Penn 10W30 "green oil"

Evil Aviator

For street cars I usually recommend Castrol GTX in the engine (viscosity grade as per the service manual), and synthetic oil (Red Line, Royal Purple, Motul, etc.) in the manual transmission and differential. I have been using this combo in RX-7s for 25 years now with good results. I think that synthetic engine oil is a waste of money unless the extra protection is needed for severe conditions such as professional track racing or an environment with extreme temperatures like Alaska or Death Valley. However, the price of mineral oil is rising, so in the near future we may hit a point at which you may as well just use synthetic. I remember when Castrol GTX was less than $1/qt.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Yeah all oil is a ripoff now, if I did go with synthetic while blocking off the omp it would be for the performance gain.

I always thought synthetics can make any oil leaks you have worse, never knew they provided better protection.

Rotary >Pistons

Evil Aviator

There is no significant performance gain for a typical street car. It is similar to premium gasoline, in that you are paying extra for nothing if your engine doesn't need the higher octane rating. An engine from a street car running Castrol GTX will look just as good as an engine from a street car running synthetic when they are cracked open for rebuilding.

When I bought my first RX-7, synthetic oil was about 4x more expensive than mineral oil. Now it is about 2.5x as expensive.

Some of the old synthetics back in the 1970s caused seals to swell. Poorly formulated synthetic oil form the 1970-80s would also cause striations on the rotor housings of rotary engines, which is why Mazda recommended against its use in street cars. These are no longer problems due to updated formulation.

FD3SPT

Changed the three oils and the cooling liquid.

Cooling Liquid: 50% Water / 50% Antifreeze (temperatures here are between 0ºC up to 40-45ºC, although I stay at home when its cold..);

Rear Axle & Tranny: Wolf ExtendTech 75W90 (GL-5);
Wolflubes - The Vital Lubricant - Products - PRODUCT

Engine: also made by Wolf for local shops, 20W50 Mineral (Dino);

I'll probably open a new thread to put all nice and cleany with some pics

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I don't preach it, but I believe there is justification for the extra cost of synthetic in the FD. Not so much for the engine, but for the turbos. Synthetic's performance and resistance to coking in high heat enviroments is why I use it. And the FD twins are a high-heat enviroment.
And obviously the car is just for fun. In the grand scheme of things, the extra cost is minimal.

Evil_Sephiroth

iTrader: (1)

i use full syntetic idemitsu or royal purple 20w50 and 10w30 when temp require it

75w90 idemitsu in diff.

when i go to a trackday i put 200g 2T oil in gas tank

markmazda

I recall a very detailed oil brand comparison, and from best to less good results were: Amsoil, Kendall, Quaker State, Chevron, then Castrol/ Valvoline etc brands were next!