FD3SPT

By yesterday's search I saw a couple speaking about oil but the one I paid more attention had around 2 year's. Since I'm planning on doing next week my oil change ever with filter so I could use some help.

A friend recommended me to use Castrol 20W50, is this still one of the best options or recently there are others much better?

The summer here in Portugal has ended and winter will come, but the car hardly will run with 0ēC outside, also it doesn't snow where I live and most probably he will run onnce per week.

How can I be sure about the quantity of oil he takes and is there any special procedure - if you can forward me to a link it would be helpful.

TIA

FD3SPT

Please some feedback guys, I know there are some different opinions.

I can't find easily on store the Castrol 20W50 (mineral) but I'll ask a friend to try;

Also, what liquid to use in the differencial and transmission.

Intended to do this:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...22&postcount=6

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

oil has been covered plenty on this forum. not sure what brands u get where u r but just use a good quality motor oil. and if u premix u can use bout any synthetic.

FD3SPT

I know mate and I've been reading but since some thread's have a good year's on them and things change I as a new owner and concerned, want to do a reliable change

If I can give a suggestion, it would be interesting to the administration run a thread or threads (if you want to be generation specific), containing a poll with "mineral", "synthetic" or "premix" (not sure what the last one it is), and each voter could mention in thread make and type (and then the data would be collected and graphics created).

Anyway, I'm intending to use a Mineral 20W50, as said winter is coming but I hope that this doesnt harm the engine. The car is a garage and should run at most once a week or less.

Here is what the previous owner used, BP Visco 2000 20W-50: http://www.bpatlantic.co.za/Product_...rd_20w_50.html

If I understood correctly, the oil coolers don't drain the oil during change correct? (my car has two).


PS #1 - I intend to change the oil each 2500 km's, avoiding the month's that some people use, I hope this isn't very bad.

PS #2 - What fluids to use for differencial and transmission? Hope there is less opinions here


Cumps

littlebit421

What are the temps there in summer and winter. That will determine what weight oil you need to use. Also a 20W 50 is a really heavey oil I have a FC and I run a non syn. Havolive 10w 30 religously. Summer never gets over 105 and winter never under10 to 15 degrees. again 20w 50 is super thick. google how oil viscostiy works to help you determine what oil u want to use. and never use synthetics atleast thats what ive always read.

FD3SPT

Thanks for the feedback. In the Summer we have temperatures up until 35-45ēC and in the Winter, by very early morning around 0ēC then probably -15ēC - there isn't snow here.

The Summer here has ended, now gradually the Automn will come

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

You can run 10W30 in the winter. Castrol is fine. For "mineral" oil (we refer to it as dino oil vs. synthetic), I try and find Valvoline VR1 b/c it has high levels of Zinc. I run 20W50 in the summer.

You are correct about the oil coolers. There is no drain for them. Regular oil changes keep the oil fresh all around.

For differential and transmission, there is fewer opinions. Many people like Redline MTL for the trans. Mobil 1 synthetic isn't bad either. Neither is Valvoline non-synthetic but it doesn't shift as smoothly as synthetic when cold. Redline, Mobil 1 (synthetic), Valvoline (synthetic) etc gear oil for the diff.

bmeyer

iTrader: (5)

I run Redline in the rear end and tranny, works great. Also no biggy with the oils they are mostly the same, I run Valvoline 10W-40 or Kendall 10W-40 they work fine. Most the name brands, parts plus, napa oil, is all valvoline so it's mostly the same stuff.

Just choose whatever and go with it.

Kentetsu

I used to use Castrol GTX 20/50 and it worked fine. Lately though, I've been trying Lucas 20/50 and am very happy with it. I've started using the Lucas for the tranny and rear end as well. They make good stuff.











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FD3SPT

Let me repeat a question with a different aspects in mind, maybe easier to decide based on your feedback.

- just to keep the Season part inside, the Summer is over here in Portugal
- temperatures hardly go below 32F (0ēC)and if it happens is during deep night or 7 or 8AM
- the car on a garage won't leave with temperatures below 40-45F (4ēC-7ēC)
- I intend to change the oil based in one of two ways, still deciding:

#1 based on miles only (2500 Km's or 3000 if you say it is ok)
#2 twice a year, being the first at April or May before Summer and for Winter during this month (September)

Now, based on what I've read from Icemark old postings
So, I have now two end questions:
- is it ok to do oil change based on miles/kilometers only?
- if it is a NO and I decide twice a year, can be still 20W50 all year long, including this summer-ending / pre-winter change ?

* 20W50 way more cheap then 10W30
* some products mentioned here aren't to be found in Portugal; the Europe section could be more molded to this market, would help.



PS: I know somewhere in the world I'm pissing most of you, please give me a little latitude to finally decide and stick with it

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

There really isn't much of a point in changing oil based solely on seasons since Portugal's climate is pretty mild. You will be fine running 20w50 year round. 2500km = 1550mi so that is probably more frequently than it needs to be but whatever works for you.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Unless you are driving the car pretty hard (i.e. road course driving), there isn't much need for anything heavier than 10w30. Just change the oil on a good schedule (around 3000-4000 miles) and you'll be fine. I run 10w30 Castrol (non-synthetic) unless it's a track day in which I run 20w50 for those.

For the transmission and diff, do NOT use Redline MTL for the FD3S. It's a 70w80 oil in which is lighter than recommended for the FD. If you are going to use Redline, use their MT-90 oil. Otherwise, just pick a decent 75-90 synthetic oil. I'm partial to Royal Purple for the transmission and diff but there are several other good ones like Neo and Idemitsu.

FD3SPT

Still with doubts. Most not-owners of RX7's say 20W50 to heavy and recommend 10W40 and 5W40.

I didnt saw in any shop a 10W30 and 20W50 is rare but can find but the doubts.. I kno it isn't anything new in this forum, but the problem to find the most mentioned oils is really hard.

I see plenty of 10W40.

FD3SPT

Can't edit thread?

I also found Castrol GTX but not 20W50, only thiner grades and way more expensive then the 20W50 I saw, 16€ 5L

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

just use whatevers cheapest!

CrashingTiger

It seems like the general consensus is to use 10w30 for daily driving use in mild climates and the 20w50 stuff should be used for track day/racing use. Is this correct? But, then again, i read elsewhere that i should just stick to 20w50. It's all so confusing since everyone seems to have their own ideas of what's correct.

I suppose the real question is, can you go wrong either way?

FD3SPT

Yeah, that's exactly my dilema

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

I've always used 10w-40 with Tx-7 engine additive, never had any bearing failures, and I've never had to replace bearings twice in an engine we've rebuilt( as in opened up later)...

CrashingTiger

Well, near as i can tell, the stuff Icemark posted is from the owner's manual. I don't have a copy of to see for myself, but i trust he posted it verbatim. In which case, that would be your answer.

Which brands to use... as long as you stick with a name brand that meets API SM standards, you can't go wrong, imho.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Some people run a heavier weight to help stem off fuel dilution of the oil. The belief is they can go longer on oil changes that way. However, if you are using a heavier weight and not getting the oil temperature to it's optimal range, then you are doing more harm then good. Heavier oil takes more effort to push through your system which means your car is working harder to circulate the oil, this also increases oil pressure. If the oil is not in it's optimal temperature range, it's also not lubricating as well as it can be which will increase wear. They are minor issues in the long run with a turbo charged rotary, but still things to be concerned with none the less.

IMO, unless you have a reason to run something heavier, stick with 10w30. The '94 FSM recommends 5w30 for colder climates or 10w30 for warmer climates.

FD3SPT

You can download them mate, in that aspect I searched alot because I intend to print them:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/1993FSM/
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

http://rotaryheads.com/PDF/3rd_gen/index.html

According to the Manual, Lubrification (Page4) I should stick with a 10W30 based on the temperatures I have.

A friend that have a modified RX7 here says I must use mineral because of the stock turbos.
I can't find at all any 10W30 in the shops and hardly find a 20W50, I will go to a warehouse autoshop to see there a 20W50.

According to Icemark which I posted many posts of him in a *.doc, I sould be using 20W50 is my country temperatures are all above 30F, which it is..

Other important aspect should be how often I drive it, since it does make the oil circulate more often or less. I drive it casualty, I can drive this weeks two or three times, not very long trips and then in next week zero driving, that's why I say once a week.

So maybe if I found any 10W30 Dino, I should stick with it based on the manual or stick with a 20W50?

This will always be in my head

Sideo

This ^
now what you should do is read up for yourself. You will get a different oil from every person you ask.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles
It's long but if you don't read it you will continue to be confused.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You can run synthetic oil if you like. Synthetic oil does have some properties which are good. Racing Beat and many other rotary builders/shops noted cooler oil temperatures with synthetics as just one of the many benefits. However, there can be a down side. Synthetic oils are much better about carrying away deposits. This sounds like a good thing, but it can carry away deposits which are plugging potential leak spots. When this happens, you'll end up with oil leaks which is why people say synthetic oils create oil leaks. It doesn't really; the problem was already there. The synthetic oil just exposed what was hidden.

liebherk

Can you mix different weights of oil? I got an oil change a few weeks ago and they put 5w-30 in it. (I haven't felt like draining it and putting heavier oil in...) Can I top it off with something heavier like 10w-40?

littlebit421

Its not recomended to mix different weights. 30 40 50 weights. Either change it or live with it for 3000 miles.