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Any advice for stock nikki prob?

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Old 11-18-08 | 05:32 PM
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From: Spokane
WA Any advice for stock nikki prob?

Just got my second Fb the other day and already pounding my head against the Nikki!
It is a 83 Fb 12a with rats nest and all other stock crap. I want to remove nest but would like to get it idling and running right first.

It does not want to idle right and surges only when cruising. Does not surge when accelerating.
I have been reading through the Hayes and looking at the carb where the idle speed and idle mixture screws are located I only have Idle mixture. where the manual says the idle speed is located i have a hose... So I adjusted idle mix per haynes and is running a little better. I cannot find a vac leak anywhere.

Second problem from what I can tell secondaries are not opening at all @ WOT I have browsed through the fixes for this but I want to tackle the idling first.

Question I have is the secondaries messing anything with idle??
and
how do I go about adjusting idle SPEED, is it set screw? or something painfully obvious that I'm missing?
Here is pic showing idle mix screw and hose..?
Old 11-19-08 | 08:48 PM
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From: Houston Tx
That is a Mixture Screw, move your finger to the right about 3in there is a screw that manually opens the butterflys
Old 12-08-08 | 03:08 PM
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Found it! thanks, man that thing is buried beneath ALOT of vac hose.
Old 12-08-08 | 03:15 PM
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No problem
Old 12-09-08 | 05:58 AM
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From: Perth, WA, OZ
Second problem from what I can tell secondaries are not opening at all @ WOT I have browsed through the fixes for this but I want to tackle the idling first.

Question I have is the secondaries messing anything with idle??
the lack of secondaries thingo with the latter carbs is related to the solenoids on the carby not being so happy
things like the bowl vent and richer solenoids and other idle up crap will affect either secondary fuel flow
or limit the operation of the vac pot for the linkage to the secondaries

- the setups differ for year, but some with a throttle switch and some with a water temp switch etc, may just need a bridge or adjust to find happy
- i used to discretely permanently mechanically disable the solenoids to various safe "fang" modes
but you can also just bridge them 12v, or ensure earth around the car normal switching for them

short story-
either physically blank or cut the solenoids, or get an FSM to repair or adjust it
( rather tricky and time and money wasteful )
- or bridge them out of the fail to warm up mode they are in

- be sure what needs an earth, has
( ie, 1 wire jobs earth across the carb , and may need a strap )
- be sure its all 12v at least, and not from the wrong side of any point ballast resistor



PS, check the sec demand vac pot for the secs butterfly is hooked up, or replaced with a mechanical linkage
( if mech modded , then leave off the vac link !!! )


PSS
double check float bowl levels, and filters
( as in 3rd, typically most fuel systems fall away )
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