MichaelConn

I apologize ahead of time, i've done some reading, still have questions....
The car has been sitting for AT LEAST a year. Cannot get the car to start. Here's where I'm at:

I have spark to all plugs
I have fuel to the rails
Main relay is working

Still not starting even when shooting a lil carb cleaner into the intake....

I still need to pull the injector fuse and turn it over (flood precedure), however I have pulled the plugs several times and tried to clear the chambers that way.
I have not checked the compression although it sounds like its hitting consistently as well as moving a decent pressure out of each spark plug hole.

The water temp sensor in the bottom tank of the radiator is unplugged due to damaged connector. I read somewhere that this may have an affect on cold starting as the ECU may look to AFM instead? Thoughts?

What else am I missing, what else can I try?

Thanks for the input.
Michael

Marx-7

Hey Michael,

I've owned a non turbo FC for 7 years and just sold it a couple of weeks ago but my problem when i bought it then was somewhat similar then yours. It started great the first 3 weeks (stood still for 1,5 year) but when i did'nt touch it for 2 months it would not start anymore and was completely flooded.

Brought it to Mazda garage, they did a compressiontest and on the first rotor it was 2,5 and the second one around 4. They told me to save up for a rebuild
When i got it back i did the same things you discribed in your post after reading on the dutch RX-7 forum what to do. Pulled out the plugs and injector fuse, started for a while so nothing came out of the holes anymore. Refitted the plugs and fuse and madw sure the battery was fully charged (needs a lot of power), took an extra battery from my other car with leads, floored the gaspedal and started for a long time. During starting the revs got up to 3500rpm and i noticed it wanted to start which i did after a while

The street was completey filled with smoke but that went away. Then i drove it for about 100 miles using all the revs now and then. After that it always started warm and cold and never had issues with it. The engine was never rebuild and had about 80.000 miles on it.

i hope you understand my english and there will be other (perhaps better) comments here to get your rotary started but this is how i did it

good luck,

Marc

SuperMattyP

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if this will fix your problem but I have heard of vehicles sitting for periods of time where the apex seals are compressed into the rotors and the vehicle won't run properly. I had heard that putting some ATF fluid in the plug holes and spinning it over a few times may loosen the stuck seals and get you going again.

I'm no expert but this is the only thing I remember reading about for vehicles that sat for extended periods.

Marx-7

Putting some ATF fluid in the plugholes can be done as well but this is to get a better compression for start-up. Problem with my and FC and probably Michaels is a stuck seal. My seals came loose after a descent drive.

There are other ways to get them loose but don't know exactly how

MichaelConn

Thank you. I'll update the thread if I get it started.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The sensor at the bottom of the radiator is for the 3000 rpm rev startup process and for emissions purpose to a degree as it helps to control the Relief solenoid I believe, but it is not the much more important sensor located behind the top of the water pump known as the "Water Thermosensor," which governs the fuel amount at startup and during driving to a degree. Check the fuel pressure according to the factory service manual if possible. Also, check the condition of the spark plugs as are they new or if they are old then what color are they at the tips and do they smell of gas and or wet from gasoline.