slowbeemer

Hey guys. I bought this 7 in late january. Stock na motor. Previous owner removed all emissions including the bac valve. Car at one time had a tii motor in it. Not too sure if that might have something to do with it.

Heres the problem. It wont idle below 1k rpm. If it drops any lower, it just bounces between 400 and 800 rpm. If you give it gas, it'll raise back up to 1k but if you add any electrical load it'll drop again and just bounce or just die. The car also requires a little bit of throttle to start. Again, not sure if that has anything to do with it but.

I've added a bac valve that seems to test out ok but dont have another car to try it on. It doesnt seem to help.

The timing is also off. When under the timing light, the timing mark on the "crank" is under the waterpump. I've tried to adjust the cas but i cant get it to the pointer before i hit the edge of the adjustment. The car is also missing under idle which i believe is related to the timing.

Ive tried to do a compression check on it but im not too rotary savy. I "think" it tested out ok but not sure. The car runs great. Pulls all the way to redline, good torque, no smoke, etc.

Checked for vacuum leaks till i was blue in the face. I replaced uim to plenum and uim to lim gaskets, injector o-rings and seals, all lines for omp were replaced, and all new vacuum caps on all nipples. Ive gone through many a can of carb cleaner trying to find any more and nothing.

Adjusted the tps multiple times. Set it to 1vdc at the computer.

Crappy video:

http://youtu.be/A-sZwhtE32A

Ive been searching since i bought this car in january but I cant find any more info on this. Ive run out of things to check and need help. I want to love this car but its just been a pain so far.

Thanks Michael

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Timing cannot be be checked at 1k RPM or greater. Above that point, the ECU will advance timing greatly. Under that point, it will be at -5/-20*, which is what the timing marks are on the pulley. If you've been messing with the CAS to try and get more advance, you need to restab it. Adding a random amount of timing is a recipe for detonation & engine rebuilding. Restabbing the CAS requires removing it, then lining up a couple of marks. There are some good threads on it that can be found by searching "CAS" in thread titles, and I think the Haynes manual details it as well. If the CAS is properly stabbed into the front cover, you will not need to rotate it at all, and timing will be set.

Bouncing idle problems are generally vacuum leaks or a bad TPS. You can test the TPS by testing resistance throughout the sweep of both plungers. There should not be any dead spots, and the values should be within the specs in the FSM (see FAQ for links).

slowbeemer

Thanks for the reply.

I've already taken the cas off and made sure the dot on the gear and the case match up. I think that's what you mean by restabbing. I'll search it and see what I can find. Is it possible for it to be 180* off? Does that make sense?

I've checked and rechecked the tps and it always tested out fine but when I get home tonight ill do it again and post up the results.

Is it possible I have a turbo sensor where I should have an n/a sensor or something?

Thanks
Michael