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5th and 6th port actuator question

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Old 11-13-11, 04:59 PM
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GA 5th and 6th port actuator question

Can someone tell me what these do exactly? All ive read so far on here is eliminating is bad and decreases power. I checked mine and it looks as though my left one is seized up. I got on ebay and found some that ill probably get if my supplier ive been going to wants a small fortune. I also saw an add on ebay for some type of sleeve proved to replace them and increase power. How do these replace the actuators? I really could use some good advice here to help me understand these. Are they a crock and what all these do and also will the 86-88 fit the 89-91? Mine is a 90na. Thanks for any help.
Old 11-13-11, 09:22 PM
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They open/close the aux. ports (sometimes called 5/6th ports). Closed below 3800 RPM = more bottom end torque. Open above 3800 RPM = more top end power.

Is what you're seeing on ebay this? http://www.pineappleracing.com/6-por...sertspair.aspx

Those are inserts for the port sleeves, and have nothing to do with removing the actuators. The actuators are what rotate the sleeves to the open/closed positions. S4/S5 info here: http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/intakeair.shtml. S5s use the air pump to supply air pressure to move the actuators. The 6PI solenoid on the rack directs the air to them, and is controlled by the ECU.

S4 and S5 actuators are not interchangeable. One pushes (S5), and the other pulls (S4). If the actuator is seized, remove it (2 nuts), and try to free up the rod with some WD-40/penetrant of your choosing.
Old 11-14-11, 04:03 PM
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GA

It was sleeves from atkins rotary that i was looking at. But now im really confused. You say the s4s valve rotates the rod up and the s5 rods down? My car is a 90. The valves have to rotate up pulling up on the rods of the acuators. But i cant tell if there working or not. They are free and will rotate up. I was able to rotate them up and let them return with a screwdriver on the car. How can i really tell if they are working or not? Also if the s4 go up and s5 down, what am i missing here? Those lines from the bottom of the actuators go to some kind of junction between them. I pulled the hoses off them and couldnt feel any vacuum or pressure. I pulled the main line off that juntion in the middle (dont know what that is)and did feel pressure air from it, not alot, i dunno if it gets more with higher rpm. So what do i need to do next?
Old 11-14-11, 06:15 PM
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I went ahead and pulled the pressure lines off the bottom of each actuator and hooked up a longer line and blew into each. The one closest to the firewall moved up and down without a problem. The one closer to the air pump would only move a slight bit with me blowing till i was blue in the face. Do both have to work nice and easy for the 6th port system to work? Im guessing yes, but more advise would be helpful, thanks.
Old 11-17-11, 02:18 PM
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The actuators on s4's rotate the 5th & 6th sleeve valves in their ports...

U can remove the LIM, slide those^ out, clean the ports & valves (better yet, replace oem w/atkins) and reinstall...Cuz it gets gunky in there...
Old 11-21-11, 10:30 AM
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If it's frozen, free it up with some penetrating lube, make sure it is working nice and smooth.
Old 11-21-11, 05:42 PM
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I believe i finally got em working right. It was the front one that would open but not close. I took em both off, the actuators worked fine, i had to work the valves back and fourth quite a bit, their nice and easy and smooth now. Thanks. Now i just gotta figure out how to get my seatbelt actuators to work and ill be a happy guy.
Old 09-25-12, 01:16 PM
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Question @ rotorite, my car is an '88 S4 NA GXL you mentioned that both actuators have their own pressure lines? I can only see one on mine, it's connected to my split air pipe. Am I missing another pressure line. Pls. help thanks.
Old 09-25-12, 01:44 PM
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Who's rotorite?

S4s have one hardline that routes to the LIM where air passageways lead to each actuator.
Old 09-26-12, 08:33 PM
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Thanks for your response. Pls. scroll up and you'll see see who "rotorite" is, a.k.a. "who knows."
Old 10-02-12, 02:47 PM
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barely learning about these ports but would it be ok to sand them down just a little so they dont stick as much and move freely?
Old 10-03-12, 02:19 PM
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What exactly are you planning on sanding? The actuator rods?
Old 10-03-12, 05:40 PM
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Sorry, havnt been on in awhile. Had to sell my rx7 for a better fuel econ ride. Lost job got another far away, sad story. Anyway, listen to rotary rocket, he's givin me a ton of helpful advice. Thats why he's the high up on the todem. Anyway, yes, sand what? If your actuators are sticking, sanding the rods arent the problem, its the worn diaphrams inside, so no, sanding the rods wont help. If you mean the ports for the actuators, then no again, they are sleeved. Only way to know if its your actuators is to take em off, they should move easily by hand or with acouple pounds of air sent to them, i actually blew into mine, if not, replace em or try to lube them up with pb blaster and work them by hand till they do or can. If you get the actuators off and they move freely, then its your ports that are the problem or their not hooked up to the vacuum source. Then you'll have to pull the intake, buy some new sleeves, and go from there. Theres tons of threads on testing these and figuring out what to do on here.
Old 02-04-13, 09:47 AM
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Can you rev your engine to see them actuate? Or does there have to be a load on the engine? I have a 1990 Rx-7 GXL.
Old 02-04-13, 10:06 AM
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I just removed the actuators completely on my last '88 and wired the ports open. Did it while the car was on a dyno and you only lose about 3-4 HP on the low end.
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