Answering your questions sorry, must have totally skipped over them! I will check the voltage of the pin 2I of the ECU, how-ever would the water thermosensor be causing all this? Also, in neutral I can rev the engine up to 4k ( I haven't really tried higher, incase of harming the engine) with it backfiring throughout the revs, the rpms don't climb as fast either, it's almost as if there's some resistance keeping it from shooting up there, but it still climbs, just not as fast as before this madness!

The link you sent in regards to the timing issues, I'm not understanding if I'm to pull out the CAS then adjust it, or adjust it while the vehicle is idling. Is it possible to adjust it without the timing indicators, they must really be worn off or never put on it. Thanks again Satch, you have to excuse my lack of mechanical knowledge.

 

There might not be the paint left on the pulley but there should be grooves in the pulley where the paint was. You just pull the cap off (unscrew it) of the CAS w/the pulley in the proper position and check the pic in post #9 and see if it is identical or not. The engine is off thus this is why you have to position the pulley just right by hand followed by checking the CAS position.

 

Busy day, wasn't able to really get anything done with the car. Anyways, I did some reading tonight, and the water thermosensor... that being faulty could throw the car into limp mode from what I hear? Some of the mechanics I work with are telling me it's a limp mode I'm seeing. How do i exactly check the voltage on pin 2I of the ECU? Is it possible to check the ECU with it plugged in? My ECU might be bad in general too, the digital clock turns on and off, and the wipers only work on 1 speed, and the rear wiper works randomly, not sure if that's the ECU though.

 

I found the notches on the pulley today, luckily it was a nice day! How-ever the screws to the CAS are frozen in there good! I'll deal with it tomorrow. Anyways, I just thought of this, but when i bought the car, the air pump was taken out of it, which I have... it ran fine too! Will this cause any issues?

 

You should really need to invest the BC . . Simply just try to place the ignition key properly so that you may not face any sort of trouble in future.

 

Uhmm, what?

 

Depends. It can cause the water pump to not spin as much as it should but if the proper belt was placed on the pulleys to compensate for this then it should not pose a problem. And it also depends on the exhaust you have as the stock exhaust needs some air to prevent the converters from being damaged.

 

The previous owner of my rx7 was battling flooding issues, rough cold starts, and random rich running, power loss. They changed out mostly everything fuel related with no permanent fixes. Since that year(88) doesnt have a CEL lamp, they overlooked a sensor issue.

As I was begining to solve this problem, starting with a proper tune up, I noticed that when I snagged on the coolant sensor by the water pump. It started to run and rev smooth. As I let go, so did the smoothness.

It turned out to be a bad coolant temp sensor. The old one gave no ohm readings on my multi meter, and $16 later from trip to autozone, the car started up perfect and runs smooth.

 

Sorry, haven't been around for a few months. Anyways, had some progress. A trusted mechanic I know, that's worked on rotaries before has been helping me out. Anyways, he was able to get my car idling at 1200rpms, and it wouldn't stall out either. I don't know exactly what was done, but I know he played with the timing, the idle adjuster, and the throttle. I actually drove it around a few miles with no problems, how-ever, it still lacked power.

It back-fires around 6k now, instead of 3k. Which is good? Was out of town for all of August... came back today and started her up (after charging the battery), she started right up, and went to 1000rpms, it didn't do the normal routine of reving to 3k also. Once she hit 1k, it revved to 2k, and droped down to 1.5k, and surged back to 2k and down to 1.5k. It continued this until I shut her off about 15 minutes later.

Anyways, I plan on working on her tomorrow. Any advice? Also, the TPS was set as close as possible to 1k. And the timing and idle adjuster was done with it jumpered, how-ever idling at 1.2k, I know it doesn't mean anything. Sorry for being a pain, but anything I can get now! Thank you!

 

I believe at 1100rpm or higher the timing advances so if the idle speed was higher when it was previously set then it needs to be lowered before setting the timing. Also, you may have a better time of it if you set the TPS according to voltage and set it at 1 volt w/key to on and the engine as hot as it can get.

 

I adjusted the TPS the way you mentioned, got it as close as I could to 1v, I don't remember the exact voltage, but it was damn close. Also, if I play with the idle, anything really below 1100, it will die. So annoying! Couldn't really figure out the surging idle today. I almost just want to start over with a new engine.

 

Might be a case of a small vacuum leak. You also have a Variable Resistor to help a bit while idling. And maybe playing w/the idle after the car is fully warmed might help if you're not already doing so.

 

Now, I've checked for vacuum leaks multiple times, with no luck. Is there a certain spot that's in a hard to reach area that's often missed? I've used the brake cleaner spray method. The variable resistor, what does that help with exactly, and how do i use it?

Been doing some thinking, could this be the cause of a bad ECU? My digital clock works randomly, and sometimes it just flashes 12:00. Just a thought.

 

ECU is not related to your clock issues.

Variable Resistor helps to adjust the fuel mixture at idle. FSM shows how to adjust it.

The primary fuel injectors can possibly leak air around its grommets. The brake booster hose is another possiblity.

 

Checked the brake booster hose, no leaks. Looked into the variable resistor, I'm not sure if I even want to adjust it, as I'm positive it's never been adjusted by anyone, it looks like its been glued in place. But, been brainstorming... if the EGR was stuck, could that cause these symptoms? Anyways tomorrow I'll check it either way, but just a thought.

 

Alright, good news. The EGR was checked today, and sure enough there it is! It's dead stuck... So, time to order a new one as well as gasket seals. Hopefully this is it!

 

You could just install a block off plate instead.

 

Might be cheaper, plus easier since no stores around me can even order an EGR. Is there a manual for that?

 

For installing a block off plate?

 

am I literally just taking out the EGR, and blocking off the hole it was on? Then what about the vacuum lines? Sorry, I'm an idiot when it comes to this line of work.

 

You cap off the hoses going to and from the EGR solenoid (has an Orange sticker) and unplug the two wire connector to the solenoid.

 

Wow, seems simple! By doing this, will it cause any problems? Let's say that what ever I'm experiancing is due to the valve being stuck open, from what I read it's like a vacuum leak. Now, if I block it off can that solve it, if it's the issue?

 

If you block it off there can be no issues unles the block off plate had a vacuum leak itself. Other than that you shouldn't experience any problems. And by unplugging the solenoid all you would have to do is cap the supply hose to the solenoid and remove the solenoid altogether.

 

Hmm sounds a lot like our issues we are encountering

 

You too huh?
As soon as the gaskets come in, I'll block off the EGR, hopefully Monday!