Ok so motor is sitting at home while I clean it up slowly. I was hoping someone knew where to find a sensor diagram that showed the various sensors on the side of the engine. I want to track down the oil pressure sensor and find out what everything else is.

I also was hoping to ask if anyone knew if the MX5 clutch/slave cylinder and fork would work on the NA 5 speed RX7 bellhousing. And if anyone knew how the manual choke works on a 750 Holley carb with vacuum secondaries. I read that its controlled via temperature and as the motor warms up but I am not sure.

 

your talking about two different chokes, some have thermal which is a round black pod about 1.5" in diameter on the oppsite side from the throttle linkage,right next to the vacume spring housing, the other is a manual choke in the same spot this will have another cable bracket that you hook up inside the car and manually move back and forth yourself from inside the car

 

Sorry I should have been more specific, hope this helps?

 

im so very confused

 

lol about what s2k_2nv? a 13B REW converted to carb by the previous owner?

 

Yes yours is a manual choke not thermal, the piece of silver wire along the side there is holding it in position.
You can leave it as is but it will be harder to start from cold and make driving before a complete warm up difficult.
You should be able to go to a performance parts store or look online for a generic manual choke cable, and hook it in place of that piece of steel wire.
Then when your starting the car simply pull the cable closed, and as it warms up slowly open to give the engine full airflow back.

 

Also I would recomend replacing that piece of cut off hose with the bolt stuck in the end with a proper vacum cap

 

Thank you so much for that. I thought as much it was a manual cable choke just was not sure. I am currently bidding on a stock FD intake set up so I hope to replace the damn carb with the normal intake set up but for now I just want it in and running. I will have to do a trial and error I guess on checking if it will start with New Zealands morning temperature and go from there. I can get a whole new carb setup with electric choke but would rather go EFI.

Currently engine is at home and I am cleaning it up, waiting on Megasquirt ECU next week and then fab up mounts and hope the clutch/MX5 slave and fork work and then install and tune.

 

Also yes I forgot to mention I will be replacing the stupid bolt and hose plug set up with proper caps and cleaning up the horrible stray wires. I just have not had much time while working.

 

Hey guys, engine goes in starting tomorrow. Could you please identify these sensors on the engine:

The two on the water pump filler neck, one looks like a water temperature sensor but the wire is cut so no idea



Also the rear of the engine has a few sensors and what appears to be a water outlet, what are the sensors on the side of the engine?



Thank you very much

 

Hey guys,

So I figured out the sensors just need an opinion on how to seal the lower nipple coming off the coolant feed pipe since I believe this nipple sends coolant to the turbo?

 

Ok so update:

I will be trying to T the nipple feeding coolant to the turbo into the hose above it as that is a looped hose as well so that should take care of the problem.

The Megasquirt is on its way with 2x general relay outputs, stock MX5 tacho circuit, 13B firing for coils and will use the coolant sensor located on the back of the filler neck (green plug) and the CAS unit.

I am leaving the OMP unplugged and will leave the oil pump to work without the metering unit and will premix for now, I have tracked down a mechanical OMP just need to get ahold of it and see if I am able to swap it out easily.

Heater coolant routing has been finalized, the nipple on the side of the block is the water outlet to the heater core and I will use a T fitting to connect the return hose to either the feed hose from the radiator or the inlet hose to the radiator although the inlet hose to the radiator is on top so might look unprofessional with a random hose hanging off it. Unsure of heater return coolant temperature and if that would greatly decrease the cooling of the coolant going into the engine or may make a very minor difference in temperature.

I am upgrading the radiator to either a 52mm MX5 radiator or 60mm RX7 radiator later down the line as well, just need to make brackets to fit the RX7 one should I use it.

I am tracking down a complete intake set up and TPS for the EFI conversion so I can get rid of the silly carburetor.

Subframe has been marked out to cut and steel plates ordered in 3mm thickness, I might be using some L shaped mild steel to make a flat mounting point along the subframe and just attach the standard RX7 mounts as normal to the L shaped bracket that will be welded to the subframe.

Power steering lines are finalized I just need to research more on the hoses that connect to the RX7 unit since I am unsure of which is the pressure hose and which is the return hose to the actual pump.

Oil cooler is sorted although I want to run a remote mount filter to give me more space just researching more on the oil flow, from what I believe is goes "out from front housing to cooler- cooler to rear housing and up to filter- filter to engine", hope that is correct?

Low pressure in tank fuel pump ready to go in for carburetor and will swap out a normal EFI pump when I go EFI.

Have the early model bell housing to swap onto my stock MX5 5 speed and will retain factory MX5 running gear. Just need to check the clutch/slave/fork will work with the bell housing and 13B flywheel.

 

make a build thread and keep us updated on the project . I wanted to put a rotary in my miata , but thne I saw it wasnt as easy as i'd hoped within the first 15 minutes of reading , so I decided to just go for the 7 itself .

But I would love ot see this projects phases

 

Ok I'm going to throw this idea at you .. and see what you think ..

You can get a set of FD twins for 200 dollars all day long . with manifold and everything ,

Do a simple unsequencial mod , get an external boost controller . and you will have a whole new level of fun . Ofcourse you may have to go EFI quicker then originally planned but I think the benefits are well worth it .

 

Thank you very much for your post Tem120. I will make a build thread just never thought about it since I dont have an RX7 . Honestly at this rate things are going smoothly, a little research and panic but I trawled the manuals and found the answers I needed along with the very helpful people on this forum so the swap may go in a little easier than people make out to be. I have spent the money where needed rather than trying to cut costs down and so I just hope it pays off in the end. I have seen the sub frame modification so all I need to do now is drop the engine in and check the oil pan clearance, once thats done the rest is fab and weld with the Megasquirt to help me along the way.

I will go EFI thats for sure no doubt about it but I need to rethink the twins since there just is not much room in the small engine bay and mine being RHD has the steering rack in the way but maybe nitrous is on the cars later down the line :p.

 

Well update:

The engine has finally been cleaned to my satisfaction without complete disassembly. So it actually looks decent now

I have fond switching to a mechanical OMP is a lot harder than removing the old one and replacing it so I think I will leave it unplugged and use premix

I broke the rear OMP oil feed line which after reading up on it is rather common (wish I knew this first) So I will hunt around after work tomorrow at the hose shop to see if their clear nylon hose will suffice to replace the old one/handle oil and be able to deal with the pressure. I am assuming around 50-60 psi through them but looking through the ID its very small so maybe less pressure.

 

Broken OMP Oil feed line to rear housing

 

Very clean I wish I'd done that . a lot more thoroughly

 

Thank you very much Tem120. Also if anyone needs and measurements for anything I can possibly get let me know and I will pull it off and measure it (apart from the obvious strip down to measure internals :P)

 

Rebuilt one OMP line using a 8mm banjo on the OMP pump side and a 10mm banjo on the oil injector side. I used a clear nylon hose with two ear press fit clamps so the test will be once I start the car to see if it holds up. I will be using a fire proof insulating cover to keep the lines cool and covered off the hot housings but other than that my worry is the 8mm OMP side which has a snug but not tight fit in to the hose and the two ear clamps squeeze enough to enable the barb to cut the inside of the hose slightly to seat it but I am worried about when pressure is applied as RPM's increase and any leakage when no pressure is in the line (when car is switched off) and the oil is left in the line to sit which may cause it to leak back down and out the OMP barb/hose seal.




If it works I will post up the materials I used as another alternative to the brittle OMP lines

Also blocked off the coolant port that goes from radiator inlet to the turbo. I used a T piece with fittings to accommodate the 10mm heater hoses and the 19mm coolant-turbo hose. It is a bit bulky and I am hoping to maybe weld the nipples closed later down the line but for now it will work. Does anyone know what the inlet housing/nipple is made off so I know if I can weld it?




$300 worth of fittings (New Zealand is expensive)



The red/blue fittings (I wanted black fittings) are for my oil filter relocation. I will be buying a oil filter block off plate and run a remote mount set up and use my Omori oil cooler I have installed already to take the outlet line to the cooler, then remote filter then to the inlet fitting. The reason I went barb ends instead of cool braid is I dont like braid very much and prefer rubber hose with nice T bolt clamps.

 

Hey guys,

Notice the AST nipple coming off the water neck is going to pour coolant if I leave it unplugged and wont work if I connect my over flow tank to it since it will continue to push coolant into it rather than push/pull coolant like a normal radiator would. Any ideas on what to do there?

 

I was thinking trying to pull out the nipple and tapping it to thread a block in there. Any idea if that would work well or should I crimp the nipple end and weld it? Then I will leave the filler cap as is and use the radiator to control the pressure retaining the over flow tank as normal.

 

You said you did want to start a build thread.. well there is the "oldschool and other rotary thread" as well, you may be able to generate more interest and get the attention of people who have done this or similar swaps as well in there. Its a good way to keep track of your progress too. It looks like you have quite the challenge ahead of you, but I would take Aaron Cakes advice as much as possible as he is very knowledgeable about anything rotary. It seems like your going to go through all this trouble trying to run a carburated setup to find out the car is torque-less and is getting beat at the track like you mentioned by a stock civic, plus your spending all the time and money getting it to run in that carb configuration and plan to redo the setup later? You will be better off doing it once, and doing it right there is a reason why modern engines use EFI. Just my 2 cents.

Old School and Other Rotary - RX7Club.com

 

Cap it off , and get an FC top section , it should bolt right on , and route the little nipple from the FC filler top to the reservoir then Top with a nice .9 bar radiator cap .

and no more AST

Look at the AST Delete on the third gen section

 

Thank you POONJU for the link and I have followed your advice and started a thread. Sorry for not doing so earlier. I will be running EFI later down the line around 2-3 months later my only reason for the initial push to get the carbed motor in there now is that I need to use my two week holiday from work coming up after this week (its Saturday here currently) to install and fab the mounts for the engine as well as get it wired in and any bugs fixed. Once the car is running and driving I will then focus on taking my time to get the EFI components and swap them over. With the low compression rotors ad silly carb I am hoping the last owner upon rebuild did in fact use high compression rotors but is there anyway to tell? I asked him what had been done and I got the whole "rebuild and street port" answer.

TEM120 - I will cap it off and run my standard MX5 set up meaning I can upgrade to a thicker radiator and still use the radiator over flow nipple that comes with them instead of figuring out how to block that off as well. I am just wondering, could I pull that nipple off and thread a bung in place? or weld it shut?