Hello everyone. I recently bought a buddys RX-7 from him. He wanted me to tune it up for him, and I liked it so I made a offer, and he took it. Here are the problems I'm having with it. It's a 13B EFI, 5 speed '89. Red, black interior. It will run, but if I shift from 1st it will bog down. It actually barely moves itself in first gear. I have to keep it at like 3k RPM or it won't move. I have put in new plugs, a new fuel filter, flushed the coolant, installed new injectors, and changed the air filter. The oil also looks and smells as though it has gas in it. If it helps, the car sat 12-15 years, the guy who owned it before my buddy parked it in a barn due to the bad injectors. If you rev the car, it pops either from the exhaust, or from the intake. I'm honestly stumped. Anyone have any idea which direction I should head in? I have been in the Toyota Supra game for a while, and I'm new to rotarys and want to learn them.



-Cody

 

you have to start of going through the whole fuel system with a fine tooth comb.
Starting at the tank,cleaning the tank,replacing the fuel sock,then the Fuel filter near the engine,getting the Injectors clenaed and serviced,new grommets etc.
make sure you have all vacuum lines replaced etc.
15 years in a Barn?.I wouldn't run Excellent either!

 

Sounds like limp mode. Check codes.

 

^ that would actually be my first guess. sounds like limp mode.

if that turns out not to be the case, then my next area of focus would be timing.

welcome to the board.

... and I've always dug those MA60s.

 

Yeah, I plan to drop the tank and clean it this weekend. I'm going to install a new pump and sock while I'm in there. Limp mode sounds possible, I will check it out. marclong: You live in Jefferson? Sweet! I actually live a few minutes from Commerce. Small world. I will keep everyone updated on it.

 

So, I tried to pull codes. It didn't work. The dash lights won't cut off unless the engine is running. I tried jumping the single pin connector for the codes, nothing.

 

Ok, nevermind. Tried it again, and it worked. I got Long long long, short short short. Double pause, repeat. I'm trying to decode it, but I have no idea where to go.

 

33? Port air solenoid. This would not cause limp mode. 20,27,37, or 8 would be limped home. I would check again for these codes. The light comes on once when key is turned on. This should be ignored. Sequence will repeat and multiple codes could be logged. Yes I am between braselton and Jefferson. Next step would be to compression check the engine. The seals may be stuck and not sealing. You can use the oil in plugs trick to attempt to get them springing again. Air flow meter could be sticking. That's a long time to sit. Are you sure you got the right impedence injectors?

 

After re reading your original post. If you are driving the car at 3k rpm and the engine is not bogging down however the car is barely moving this could be a clutch issue. CClutch slipping, slave cylinder rusted up etc.

 

Well, here is a video of the code. This apparently is the only code it throws, it seems to keep repeating. I'll get a running video later to let you guys see symptoms.

100_4543_zps4e15e5fb.mp4 Video by michael30557 | Photobucket

 

Oh, and no clutch issue. I can dump the clutch at 3k rpm and it will squeek the tires. Clutch isn't the issue, seems to be fuel/fire related.

 

Yeh 33. I would start with compression test first. Borrow a tester from auto zone.

 

I will compression check it soon, trying to look at a few more things first. Honestly, it doesn't feel compression related. It's running rich as hell, I know that. It smokes a little bit if you hammer down on it. It will rev to 7k without a problem, but smokes. I figured code 33 would be the port air solenoid. I removed it and sure enough, it was stopped up. I cleaned it out, and reinstalled it with a new gasket. I also noticed that the o2 sensor wire had gotten hot. It had melted, so I soldered/ heat shrinked another wire in. I also found 2-3 other melted wires, and did the same. I also disconnected the battery and held the brakes for 15 seconds, and it's still throwing code 33. I'm going to see if the ecu is fried, as soon as I can find where it is bolted in.

 

ECU is in the passenger side footwell, under a plate.

 

Ok, I found it. I removed the ECU and removed the top plate. Everything inside of the ECU looks fine. I'm stumped right now. This is pretty confusing honestly, lol. I just want to drive her. Anyone close to me whom I can pay to come help me look it over? I'm stumped. It's not a hard engine to work on, but I don't know the part names, symptoms for whatever, etc. =/

 

Here's a video after replacing/cleaning engine parts.

FC RX-7 Running bad - YouTube

 

Sounds like compression is very low. Send it to landers and get a rebuild. Also has exhaust leaks.

 

Rotary ressurection in tennesse can rebuild . that's Kevin landers

 

Alright, I appreciate the response. I'll look around and see what I can come up with. I would like to have it rebuilt, the body is too nice not to.

 

Have you cleaned the tank yet? Changed fuel? Looked at the fuel sock (the filter attached to the fuel pump?). Have you swapped plugs/plug wires? If you haven't swapped plugs, pull them, take pictures of em and post them up. It'd also be useful to make sure the plug wires are running to the right spot (it's more common than you think!)

L1 to front rotor bottom plug, T1 to front rotor top plug, L2 & T2 to rear rotor accordingly.

What all have you done so far? It's either down a rotor, or has a stuck seal currently. However, before addressing that some of those questions need to be answered.

 

I haven't touched it any since I last posted, but I am going out to pull the tank right now. I will grab some photos. I'll check the plug wires, too. As for what I have done, I've replaced the plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and cleaned a few things but that's it really.

 

Well, I decided against removing the tank. I removed the pump, and the pump and filter, and the inside of the tank look new surprisingly. It must have been stored without fuel, because their is not a trace of any gummed up fuel anywhere. Just very little rust in the tank. I'm going to go check the plug wiring right now.

 

Plug wire order was correct. Checked it twice just to be sure. =/ Is their any sure fire way to rule a rotor and stuck seal as the culprit?

 

charge your battery.

check the timing! it sounds like the CAS is a tooth or two off.

 

Yeah, the battery had been sitting a while, it was in my 7mgte swapped Celica. It's perky now. I'll try to check the timing, I just have to search and find how haha.