13b engine with bolt on turbo
08-21-10, 04:48 PM
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13b engine with bolt on turbo
i just got a 13b with a bolt on turbo from a 1990 rx7. I want to put it on a mount and start it, what are the electrical parts needed to be connected from the wiring harness and ecu to just get it running. And if anyone has an in depth diagram of the engine with a bolt on turbo that would be helpful. Thank you
08-22-10, 10:20 AM
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Please give us more info on what "bolt on turbo" means.
Is this engine an NA engine and then the turbo is from a turbo engine? Is it some aftermarket turbo you are going to but on a 13B turbo engine?
What are the specs on the turbo? Is it just an OEM turbo from a 1990?
Is this engine an NA engine and then the turbo is from a turbo engine? Is it some aftermarket turbo you are going to but on a 13B turbo engine?
What are the specs on the turbo? Is it just an OEM turbo from a 1990?
08-22-10, 12:43 PM
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The turbo is an ht18s-2s. The engine was originally NA (that's what the original owner said). I bought the engine with it already attached. I was just wondering what wiring is needed to get it running (all the wiring on the engine is still attached)because i didn't take the wiring harness from the car because it was still attached to all the minor electronics (like ac heating headlights taillights), but i did get the ecu. I'm hoping i can get the engine running on just the ecu without the wiring harness on a stand. is that possible?
Last edited by RX924; 08-22-10 at 12:46 PM.
08-23-10, 02:39 PM
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The TII turbo (the HT-18) doesn't bolt directly onto the NA block without some modifications.
Either a spacer was made so that the turbo clears the lower intake, or the TII lower intake was modified to fit the NA block.
I'd suggest that you don't bother with the factory wiring/ECU as it was never designed to run a high compression 6 port turbo engine. It will likely blow in short order. Instead, bite the bullet and convert to a full standalone. That way you have a nice new wiring harness and can run that turbo at 12 PSI for about 275-280 RWHP and a fun car. But the learning curve and expense for this approach is steep.
Just so you know, the factory NA and turbo engines share almost nothing in common. They are completely different engines.
Either a spacer was made so that the turbo clears the lower intake, or the TII lower intake was modified to fit the NA block.
I'd suggest that you don't bother with the factory wiring/ECU as it was never designed to run a high compression 6 port turbo engine. It will likely blow in short order. Instead, bite the bullet and convert to a full standalone. That way you have a nice new wiring harness and can run that turbo at 12 PSI for about 275-280 RWHP and a fun car. But the learning curve and expense for this approach is steep.
Just so you know, the factory NA and turbo engines share almost nothing in common. They are completely different engines.
08-23-10, 02:55 PM
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man o man. i was at this point a couple of days ago. i pm'd aaron. which btw, never got back to me.
but go to advanced search. hit search only titles, type in "6 port turbo" and read away. personally from what ive read, id stay the hell away from em.
but go to advanced search. hit search only titles, type in "6 port turbo" and read away. personally from what ive read, id stay the hell away from em.
08-23-10, 03:08 PM
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The TII turbo (the HT-18) doesn't bolt directly onto the NA block without some modifications.
Either a spacer was made so that the turbo clears the lower intake, or the TII lower intake was modified to fit the NA block.
I'd suggest that you don't bother with the factory wiring/ECU as it was never designed to run a high compression 6 port turbo engine. It will likely blow in short order. Instead, bite the bullet and convert to a full standalone. That way you have a nice new wiring harness and can run that turbo at 12 PSI for about 275-280 RWHP and a fun car. But the learning curve and expense for this approach is steep.
Just so you know, the factory NA and turbo engines share almost nothing in common. They are completely different engines.
Either a spacer was made so that the turbo clears the lower intake, or the TII lower intake was modified to fit the NA block.
I'd suggest that you don't bother with the factory wiring/ECU as it was never designed to run a high compression 6 port turbo engine. It will likely blow in short order. Instead, bite the bullet and convert to a full standalone. That way you have a nice new wiring harness and can run that turbo at 12 PSI for about 275-280 RWHP and a fun car. But the learning curve and expense for this approach is steep.
Just so you know, the factory NA and turbo engines share almost nothing in common. They are completely different engines.
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08-23-10, 03:21 PM
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He means get a standalone ECU (something like PFC for FD's or Haltech) https://www.rx7club.com/engine-management-forum-37/ That has pretty much every EMS under the sun that has an applicable purpose for the 13b. But it requires a nice bit of research.
Id personally say check compression of the engine as well, and take a look at the turbo for shaft play, bent/broken fins, etc
Id personally say check compression of the engine as well, and take a look at the turbo for shaft play, bent/broken fins, etc
08-23-10, 03:37 PM
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How difficult/expensive is it to convert my 1990 RX7 Convertible to a turbo or twin turbo? Will it require an engine swap or can the non-turbo engine be modified. I've owned it since new and it has 76,000 miles on it.
08-23-10, 03:57 PM
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do what i suggested above with the search. n/a motors have 6 ports (3 per rotor). and t2's have 4 ports (do the math)... but if you search youll see its not easy. this was a big deciding factor in why im selling my car or if it doesnt sell, parting it out...
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