13B to 20B really necessary???
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13B to 20B really necessary???
So I did some searching. Found a couple answers but not quite satisfied. So perhaps if I got myself a 3rd gen RX-7 and wanted to modify it and keep into consideration which would be more reliable, MPG, torque range etc. I've always had a love for the 20B and curious to know if I was shooting for 500hp to the wheels if getting a 20B would be necessary. I've seen builds offered by shops where the 13B can reach those levels so I've been doing research on cost to HP ratio but in the end where would my power range be between the two. Gas milage, torque, turbo sizes, fuel setups. What would benefit me by going with the 20B? Pro and CONS?
#2
Why 500HP? Bragging rights? Why not 501 or 499 or 350HP?
PRO: 20B has more displacement than a 13B and all the benefits that go along with more displacement.
CON: 20B is far more expensive to install, buy and setup.
Read the 3rd gen FAQ thread and other past discussions and 20B projects to educate yourself better on what the challenges are.
PRO: 20B has more displacement than a 13B and all the benefits that go along with more displacement.
CON: 20B is far more expensive to install, buy and setup.
Read the 3rd gen FAQ thread and other past discussions and 20B projects to educate yourself better on what the challenges are.
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I'm not concerned about the "challenges" so to speak and frankly don't care for "cost" discussions. My questions were inquiring about drivability factors, torque range, MPG, and which would be more reliable. When I said 500hp I didn't mean 500 on the dot. 500ish is where I was going with that and I'm betting you could have figured that out all on your own instead of being a smart ***. I like driving high hp cars and that's why I want 500ish. I don't care much for bragging rights. Like I said I did some research but I don't have the ability to be on a computer for more than a short time a day.
#5
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depending on what your driving ex. FC vs FD the pro's would be that the FC will cost about half as much to install and set up properly than the FD because of the subframe modification, and the amount of work a shop would have to do to install the engine. as far as making 500ish RWHP vs cost. in truth you can put a 20B into an FC for about the same amount that you would spend on upgrading a 13B to be reliable and support that amount of power. Here is a break down assuming this is going into an FC
20B is about 4000
mounts 300
clutch 600
standalone 2000
upgraded injectors 1000
FMIC 500-1000
Manifold/ downpipe 1500
turbo 1500-2000
Fuel pump
13B ( re or otherwise) 1200
Rebuild 1500
Porting 500
Standalone 2000
Injectors 1000
Clutch 600
FMIC 500-1000
turbo 1500
Manifold / downpipe 1500
Fuel pump 250
Now this assumes you do your own tuning and you have an exhaust that will support the engine. and your doing your own work for the install. You;ll notice that there are alot of carry over parts, and when it's all said and done your maybe 2000 away from having a 20B. The last 20B swap I did the owner had 13K or so between parts and labor( FC) , and the last high HP 13B I did had maybe 10K under the hood. FD swaps like I said previously run about twice as much ,and on average have 20K just in parts.
As to the power difference. The 13B lacks torque compared to the 20B. it is literally a night and day difference. The upgrade ceiling on the 20B is also much higher. with stock ports on a 20B you can see close to 600 HP with the right single turbo ( 500 with non sequential twins and increased boost); while the 13B tops out around 425-450 in stock form. although this is also due to the tune you have. Now lets say you had a medium streeported 20B and a similarly modified 13B. and they are both running a GT42. The 13B will spool more slowly than the 20B and will make less power. But this is due to the difference in displacement.
The cons of running a 500HP 13B are that in my opinion you should either stud or dowel the engine. I say that because noone wants to crack a plate . It happened to me and it was far more expensive than if I had just studded the engine in the first place. But the 20B plates won't crack because your not really pushing the engine excessively.
So in summation. if you want an easy low boost 500HP at the wheels then you should get a 20B . I personally like 15psi and 500 HP so I would go with the 13B it's the cheaper option . Besides 500HP in a rotary is like nothing else on the road. You'd have to have some 700HP monster to race against to really justify the expense. IMHO.
20B is about 4000
mounts 300
clutch 600
standalone 2000
upgraded injectors 1000
FMIC 500-1000
Manifold/ downpipe 1500
turbo 1500-2000
Fuel pump
13B ( re or otherwise) 1200
Rebuild 1500
Porting 500
Standalone 2000
Injectors 1000
Clutch 600
FMIC 500-1000
turbo 1500
Manifold / downpipe 1500
Fuel pump 250
Now this assumes you do your own tuning and you have an exhaust that will support the engine. and your doing your own work for the install. You;ll notice that there are alot of carry over parts, and when it's all said and done your maybe 2000 away from having a 20B. The last 20B swap I did the owner had 13K or so between parts and labor( FC) , and the last high HP 13B I did had maybe 10K under the hood. FD swaps like I said previously run about twice as much ,and on average have 20K just in parts.
As to the power difference. The 13B lacks torque compared to the 20B. it is literally a night and day difference. The upgrade ceiling on the 20B is also much higher. with stock ports on a 20B you can see close to 600 HP with the right single turbo ( 500 with non sequential twins and increased boost); while the 13B tops out around 425-450 in stock form. although this is also due to the tune you have. Now lets say you had a medium streeported 20B and a similarly modified 13B. and they are both running a GT42. The 13B will spool more slowly than the 20B and will make less power. But this is due to the difference in displacement.
The cons of running a 500HP 13B are that in my opinion you should either stud or dowel the engine. I say that because noone wants to crack a plate . It happened to me and it was far more expensive than if I had just studded the engine in the first place. But the 20B plates won't crack because your not really pushing the engine excessively.
So in summation. if you want an easy low boost 500HP at the wheels then you should get a 20B . I personally like 15psi and 500 HP so I would go with the 13B it's the cheaper option . Besides 500HP in a rotary is like nothing else on the road. You'd have to have some 700HP monster to race against to really justify the expense. IMHO.
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