Rotary technician needed in MD/VA/DC
#1
Rotary technician needed in MD/VA/DC
Can anyone recommend a solid, independent mechanic who specializes in rotary engines in the Maryland/DC/ Virginia metro area?
Would appreciate any contacts. Thanks, Steve
Would appreciate any contacts. Thanks, Steve
#2
http://www.pfsupercars.com/
http://www.rpperformanceracing.com/
what type of rotary is it and what do you need done?
http://www.rpperformanceracing.com/
what type of rotary is it and what do you need done?
#3
It is a 13B inside a Lotus 7 Replica (Rotus)
First of all I just got this car and understand nothing about the engine. It is on its way by truck from North Carolina. What I want done is to make it very simple to start and use as a round town "get the bread and milk" vehicle. Currently it is an autocross car.
So:
1. It has the oil metering system detached and you mix two-cycle oil with it. I want that made simple for me and guarantee I won't spoil the engine by leaving the metering system on or off.
2. It has a huge Weber 481D 48mm carb that has been widened to 50mm. I want to get a little better gas mileage. Maybe consider adding fuel injection.
3. The engine is street ported, balanced and has light weight rotors. I want to make sure that this engine is not overkill for a little street and weekend road fun. I don't plan to race it but I would like to goose it once in a while. Does it need to be detuned? It has MSD ignition with a rev limiter to 8600. I guess that's a good thing.
So this is part of question #1. How do I make it simple and economical to run?
4. The car has what I understand is common starting problems with plug fouling. Apparently you have to let the fuel pump run and be sure not to flood it. I don't need that headache and would like that straightened out.
So, I guess I have this race tuned engine (also with competition plug wires, etc.) and want it tamed and made simpler and more reliable to use.
All these questions are based on a ton of assumptions because I don't know anything about rotaries yet. But I really don't want a finnicky car. It has other things about it that I love like four wheel disc brakes, limited slip, competition clutch, highly tuned steering and front suspension, etc.
So:
1. It has the oil metering system detached and you mix two-cycle oil with it. I want that made simple for me and guarantee I won't spoil the engine by leaving the metering system on or off.
2. It has a huge Weber 481D 48mm carb that has been widened to 50mm. I want to get a little better gas mileage. Maybe consider adding fuel injection.
3. The engine is street ported, balanced and has light weight rotors. I want to make sure that this engine is not overkill for a little street and weekend road fun. I don't plan to race it but I would like to goose it once in a while. Does it need to be detuned? It has MSD ignition with a rev limiter to 8600. I guess that's a good thing.
So this is part of question #1. How do I make it simple and economical to run?
4. The car has what I understand is common starting problems with plug fouling. Apparently you have to let the fuel pump run and be sure not to flood it. I don't need that headache and would like that straightened out.
So, I guess I have this race tuned engine (also with competition plug wires, etc.) and want it tamed and made simpler and more reliable to use.
All these questions are based on a ton of assumptions because I don't know anything about rotaries yet. But I really don't want a finnicky car. It has other things about it that I love like four wheel disc brakes, limited slip, competition clutch, highly tuned steering and front suspension, etc.
#4
First of all I just got this car and understand nothing about the engine. It is on its way by truck from North Carolina. What I want done is to make it very simple to start and use as a round town "get the bread and milk" vehicle. Currently it is an autocross car.
So:
1. It has the oil metering system detached and you mix two-cycle oil with it. I want that made simple for me and guarantee I won't spoil the engine by leaving the metering system on or off.
2. It has a huge Weber 481D 48mm carb that has been widened to 50mm. I want to get a little better gas mileage. Maybe consider adding fuel injection.
3. The engine is street ported, balanced and has light weight rotors. I want to make sure that this engine is not overkill for a little street and weekend road fun. I don't plan to race it but I would like to goose it once in a while. Does it need to be detuned? It has MSD ignition with a rev limiter to 8600. I guess that's a good thing.
So this is part of question #1. How do I make it simple and economical to run?
4. The car has what I understand is common starting problems with plug fouling. Apparently you have to let the fuel pump run and be sure not to flood it. I don't need that headache and would like that straightened out.
So, I guess I have this race tuned engine (also with competition plug wires, etc.) and want it tamed and made simpler and more reliable to use.
All these questions are based on a ton of assumptions because I don't know anything about rotaries yet. But I really don't want a finnicky car. It has other things about it that I love like four wheel disc brakes, limited slip, competition clutch, highly tuned steering and front suspension, etc.
So:
1. It has the oil metering system detached and you mix two-cycle oil with it. I want that made simple for me and guarantee I won't spoil the engine by leaving the metering system on or off.
2. It has a huge Weber 481D 48mm carb that has been widened to 50mm. I want to get a little better gas mileage. Maybe consider adding fuel injection.
3. The engine is street ported, balanced and has light weight rotors. I want to make sure that this engine is not overkill for a little street and weekend road fun. I don't plan to race it but I would like to goose it once in a while. Does it need to be detuned? It has MSD ignition with a rev limiter to 8600. I guess that's a good thing.
So this is part of question #1. How do I make it simple and economical to run?
4. The car has what I understand is common starting problems with plug fouling. Apparently you have to let the fuel pump run and be sure not to flood it. I don't need that headache and would like that straightened out.
So, I guess I have this race tuned engine (also with competition plug wires, etc.) and want it tamed and made simpler and more reliable to use.
All these questions are based on a ton of assumptions because I don't know anything about rotaries yet. But I really don't want a finnicky car. It has other things about it that I love like four wheel disc brakes, limited slip, competition clutch, highly tuned steering and front suspension, etc.
2 + 3: I would drive it a bit first and see how bad it is. If you can't live with it you might look into changing it back to fuel injection (the engine was fuel injected originally, all 13Bs were).
4: that might be a carburetor problem. I would change the spark plugs back to stock spark plugs if they aren't already, they won't foul as easily. fuel injection might help with the flooding.
I'd take it to RP in summit point WV, it sounds like it's more their type of car. PFS is more newer rotaries.
#6
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Not accurate...
Older 13bs came in the REPU and Old school RXes (With 6mm Apex seals!) carbureted.
Match the plugs to the year of ignition system. I'd be willing to bet that it's a distributor style system using the traditional two cylindrical coils. That'd be NGK BR8EQ-14 plugs.
A lot of fouling can be attributed to a poor carburetor tune and running too much oil.
Older 13bs came in the REPU and Old school RXes (With 6mm Apex seals!) carbureted.
A lot of fouling can be attributed to a poor carburetor tune and running too much oil.
#7
Wow. Why would you buy a heavily modded autocross racer if you wanted a "bread & milk" vehicle? Assume this is a 1st Gen, there must be a jillion out there. Sounds like you just need to stock it back out. Bret @ RP Performance can do that.
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#8
Thanks Pele, though it's much more probable it's a converted FB or FC fuel injected 13B, I did forget about the earlier AP style 13Bs
#10
CKAutoworks is another shop that knows it's rotaries. Good, personable guy, and knows his way around rotaries/racecars.
https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/shop-opening-ck-autoworks-manassas-va-871077/
https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/shop-opening-ck-autoworks-manassas-va-871077/
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