falnfenix

lord.


some people...

krautrocket

im just doing my part ... its like serving in the RX7 club NE armed forces... do your part ... protect your nerd rating

eage8

iTrader: (9)

aparently we just declared war on the richmond thread...

fcrx88

you are now entrering the town of postwhoring

krautrocket

quite




oh yeah ... interesting article on the WUNDER MOTOR

Felix Wankel And The Greatest Forgotten Invention Of The 20th Century

By Alexander Missal

MUNICH (dpa) - If you look under the bonnet of a car in Germany, Mexico or New Zealand, you will generally see the one type of motor - the internal combustion engine. But 30 years ago it seemed possible that it might be superseded by a new invention- the Wankel motor.

The Wankel was seen as simpler, lighter and less noisy. But the revolution in motoring history did not take place.

Felix Wanke would have been 100 years old on August 13. He was an inventor who turned his hobby into a career. He was born in 1902 in the Black Forest town of Lahr and trained as a publisher in Heidelberg. His great interest was biographies of spies who specialised in science and technology.

In the 1920s, Wankel and some friends opened a small workshop and experimented with motors. It was the beginning of an unusual career which was to produce what became one of the great forgotten inventions of the 20th century.

The inventor himself was an oddity in that did not have an engineering background and never even held a driver's licence.

Wankel's research came to prominence when the German arms industry expanded during the **** era. He was given backing which enabled him to open his own workshop in Lindau, on Lake Constance, and work on developing new motors. The end of the war prevented him from putting some of his valves and seals into mass production. The French forces destroyed the workshop.

He was subsequently able to continue his work with the support of industry. In April 1954, he came across the ingeniously simple idea of a motor which worked practically without valves. It used a triangular-shaped rotor which rotated inside a container shaped like the figure "8".

The engine differed in four principal ways from the internal- combustion engine: it had rotor instead of piston, a so-called eccentric shaft in place of crankshaft, peripheral housing instead of cylinder and intake and exhaust port instead of valve and camshaft.

The mass-circulation Bild-Zeitung described it as a "Wunder Motor".

Over the following decades, motor manufacturers who worked with the Wankel included Daimler-Benz, Porsche, Alfa Romeo and Rolls- Royce. But Wankel's most important partner was the motorcycle maker NSU which in 1963 brought out the first series car with a Wankel motor: the NSU Spider.

Four years later came the Ro 80, which was voted by specialists as the "Car of the Year".

But the euphoria was short-lived. It was a time of oil crisis and motor manufacturers reluctant to commit investment to a completely new motor. Volkswagen, which by now owned NSU - which had in the meantime merged with Audi - did not want to continue production of the Ro 80 in spite of advances in technology.

Wankel was not able to put together a durable coalition of backers. One contemporary, Dankwart Eiermann, 69, who worked with Wankel for 20 years, said: "That did not interest him. He was always a bit of dreamer."

In spite of his motor's lack of commercial success, it did earn him millions. Wankel died in 1988 in Heidelberg.

Icesickkle

Private Forsyth reporting for duty, I have located an internet connection device bhind enemy lines and am transmitting to you live...or at least slightly delayed. I'm under attack by rabbit virginians with slow cars and bad driving skills. I'll report more once I return to maryland soil.

Private forsyth....out...ahh....oh god.......ahhhhhhhhhh

Enkidu

It's kind of a shame they don't go full into why the other companies never adopted it (fear of change!) or talk about how Mazda has kept the rotary alive, but.. *sigh*

emory_stagmer

Hey you rotary-tech-wise guys!
I've developed (ok my CAR has developed) a fuel leak right above what I think is the main injector of the front rotor - looks like a leaking fuel rail, but I haven't looked at an exploded (don't like saying that word when talking about fuel leaks!) diagram yet. If it is a the rail how much work am I in for to take the intake apart? I also apparently have a UIM gasket (vaccum) leak so this would solve that too... Just thought I'd ask before getting the socket set out...

falnfenix

i'm a GEEK, not a NERD.

nerds never leave their homes, wear really thick glasses with tape across the middle, and have pocket protectors.

13Beast REW

You probably have a leaking fuel pulsation dampener. Its not rare for them to go bad but it does need to be fixed quick fast and in a hurry. Removing the intake manifold is not that difficult.

krautrocket

glad to see my status in the "some people...." category will outlive my service here... good to know


thanks for dropping by ....


now where's my f'in hoodscoop ya body shop lookin bastards... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH

Tofuball

Pulsation Dampner is the first thing I'd guess :O

13Beast REW

for an S4 motor, getting to the FPD should go something like this...

Step #) (Tool(s) needed) Instructions

1) (Key in the OFF position or completly removed from the ignition) Let the engine cool completely. You will be removing coolant hoses and don't want (well shouldn't want) hot coolant burning your skin. This will also give the fuel system a chance to relieve some pressure so you dont get sprayed with gas when removing fuel hoses.

2) (Varies but usually a ratchet + 10mm socket or wrench) Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

3) (ratchet, 10mm socket) Remove the metal air hose the runs over the Throttle Body (TB). There are 2 10mm bolts; one at the back of the TB near the idle speed adjust screw, the other on the back of the dynamic chamber (The thing with 13B Injection imprinted on it)

4) (ratchet, 3 inch extension, 10mm socket) Disconnect the throttle cable from the TB and dynamic chamber. For the TB connection (this part is done by hand), it helps to press down on the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) screw on the front of the TB while trying to disconnect the cable. For the dynamic chambe connection there are 2 10mm bolt on the driver's side of the dynamic chamber.

IF EQUPPIED) (hands) Disconnect the cruise control cable from the TB. This cable will be running from a large cylinder between the front passenger side strut tower and the firewall. Removing this cable is similar to removing the throttle cable. Press down on the TPS adjust screw and disconnect the cable. Also disconnect the vacuum hose from the large cylinder to the intake manifold.

5) (same ratchet setup) Remove the Air bypass solenoid valve. This is the device positioned under and to the right of the Bypass Air Control (BAC). The BAC is bolted onto the driver's side of the dynamic chamber and has coolant hoses connected to both ends. There are 2 10mm bolts at the top of the air bypass solenoid valve.

6) (Varies but with a clamps that came from Mazda, Pliers. I recommend replacing Mazda's "sqeeze clamps" with some screw type clamps) Disconnect the coolant hoses from the TB.

7) (Phillips head screwdriver) Unscrew the clamps on the air intake hose. One clamp is on the trottle body elbow, the other is where the hose meets the airbox. Remove the air intake hose.

8) (ratchet, 6 inch extension, 12mm socket) Remove the throttle body elbow. There are 2 12mm nuts; one on the upper right of the elbow, the other on the bottom left.

9) (Same ratchet setup) Remove the throttle body. There are 4 12mm nuts at all 4 corners of the throttle body when looking at it from the passenger side of the car. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the nipple closest to the firewall on the TB. On manual transmission cars this is the 2nd nipple from the right when looking at the car from the passenger side. On automatic transmission cars this is the 3rd nipple from the right and it also is better to disconnect the hose from the intake manifold rather than the TB because of the check valves connected to the hoses on the TB.

10) (Varies but Pliers with the stock Mazda clamps, again screw type clamps recommended) Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel rail.

11) (ratchet, 6 inch extension, 12mm socket) Remove the fuel rail. There are 2 12mm bolts; one on top of each fuel injector. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). Remove the fuel injectors from the intake manifold.

12) (same ratchet setup) Unbolt the upper intake manifold (UIM). We are not removing the TB yet! There are 5 12mm nuts on the UIM; 2 at either end of the UIM, 2 in between the first two, and 1 in the center behind where the fuel rail was when looking from the passenger side of the car.

13) (same ratchet setup) From the driver's side of the car there are 2 12mm bolts securing the dynamic chamber to the motor behind where the air bypass solenoid valve was. Unbolt these 2 bolts. There is also one more 12mm bolt on the dynamic chamber when looking from the front of vehicle behind the alternator. You will need to remove the extension from the ratchet to get this bolt.

14) (hands) Disconnect the remaining vacuum hoses from the UIM. There are 9 vacuum hoses left on this thing. Three hoses are on the front of the dynamic chamber behind the alternator. Two are on the back of the dynamic chamber opposite the three I just mentioned. From the passenger side of the vehicle, there is one vacuum hose running from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor to the UIM. The MAP sensor is positioned between the front passenger strut tower and the air box. There are another 2 hoses just above the UIM nipple for the MAP sensor hose. These 2 hoses wrap around the firewall side of the UIM.
There is one final hose on the driver's side of the UIM under the BAC and to the left of where the air bypass solenoid valve was.

15) (hands and maybe a ratchet, 3 inch extension, and 10mm socket) If your UIM has never been removed before (or if it was done by a mechanic that always puts things back the way they were) then there will be a 10mm bolt on the firewall side of the UIM that secures a vacuum rail to the UIM. There may also be another 10mm bolt toward the front of the UIM securing a bracket that holds some of the wire harness in place or that might have been the 12mm nut on UIM closest to the front of the car. In either case, its not really necessary to reconnect the vacuum rail and the bracket when putting the UIM back on. I dont have either one connected on my car and havent for a long time so my memory of these two things is a little foggy. But anyway... the last thing you'll need to do before removing the UIM is disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS, the 2 connectors on the lower intake manifold (LIM) below where the MAP sensor vac hose was. There are 2 more electrical connectors on the drivers side of the car; one connects to the BAC, the other to the intake air temperature sensor near where the air bypass solenoid valve connected to the UIM.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

icesickle

What the guy above me said

sudseh

what the guy above the guy above me said..

oh... and if anyone has a suggestion about what color led to get to put in my new shiftknob lemme know... I'm trying to find an amber that looks somewhat like the dash lights, but not having much luck. The blue bulb that came with the shiftknob looks hellagaudy.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I suggest not having and leds in your shift ****

sudseh

hahha thanks mike :P
even if it looked stock though?...

icesickle

If you have to say "even if..." then its not a good shift ****. I recomend something by momo. Something not flashy, but stylish and most importantly, fits your hand comfortably.
I werk with the philosophy the "lights = queer"

sudseh

ice: it's very tasteful.. I'd take a pic, but my dad took my digicam to india with him.
looks like brushed aluminum and has the shift pattern machined out. there is a way to thread the included led into the assembly so that it lights up... It fits my hand (or the part that is going to be shifting), it's not flashy, no leather which is a plus. I'll try and find a pic online.

MOMO is expensive by name alone.

icesickle

Ok you got me, it looks decent. But I still say the lights are a bad idea...but yeah, if you must I'd go find a clear bulb and some water based (i think thats right) red paint and water the paint down alittle and then paint the bulb to give it an amber look, might add alittle orange to the paint or something.
Sorry to dis your rice shifter...i mean...cough..... j/k

sudseh

hahahahaha~ thanks . :P

eage8

iTrader: (9)

so suds... is your car all working now?

like it the high rpm crap all fixed...

sudseh

doesn't go past 7500 but I think that's the fault of it running so fscking rich.

neptuneRX

sell your 7 and get a 3