GSLSE-YA

You really need a header from rotaryshack or defined autoworks if you want to come close to the 200whp mark. They are expensive, but that's because they are worth it!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i have heard that as well. the more room you have @tdc the more air you can cram in there, and the more power you can make....

the Rx8 appears to have too little volume, and power suffers

julesfc3s

hy guys i plan too streetport my 6 port this winter and I want too know which template is the best choice. mazdatrix or pinneaple racing

thanks

StevenL5975

Glad to see people actually still do build NA engines instead of turbo motors. I like the NAs more than their turbo counterparts.
But thats just personal preference. I dont need 350 whp

As for NA tuning, how about an ITB setup ? As you are in the progress to go Standalone EMS, might be worth it.

I am currently building an NA ITB S4 motor with haltech
Well I am gatering parts for now until the body comes back from the body shop.
Fixing some rust and dents.

REAmemiya_fan

If an ITB setup wasn't so freakin expensive, then yes, I would so go with it. However, this is definitely a budget build. Lol.

@ julesfc3s: Mazdatrix

StevenL5975

True that, expensive as hell, but I cant resist That wild intake symphony of an ITB truly sends chivers over my back.
Saw an Levin 4AGE Silvertop with ITBs and Megasquirt few months ago on a local JDM meeting, man that was awesome ! Got me hooked on ITBs.

You could use a S5 rotating assembly, to get the higher compression numbers. Not sure if I will do that too, depends on the condition/price of the rotors I can get.
P/S and A/C are gone, thats just dead ballast.
200 Hp on the wheels sounds feasible, although its not that easy.
My stock S4 does 136 HP to the wheels, like to see a dynosheet? (Although it has no torque curve, just mesured top kw in 4th gear, was a simple but calibrated dyno)

Steven

julesfc3s

thank you. is that because pineapple is too large and will produce only top end ?

LoLsmileyFC

iTrader: (37)

How much HP is attainable with this set up? Seems streetable until the aux ports open up

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

It's crap once they do. Don't do aux bridgeports! Forget you've ever heard about them. They've sucked EVERY single time they've been attempted. No one has ever made them work worth a damned and no one ever will. It's a nice idea on paper that doesn't work in the real world. If you have a 6 port engine you have 2 realistic options, a stockport or a streetport. That's it. I feel like a parrot repeating this over and over again while people keep trying it and failing at it over and over again.

LoLsmileyFC

iTrader: (37)

i heard using t2 intermediate housings will cause you to gain 3hp.

if one was to use t2 or fd intermediate housings do we have to port the lim to match the ports or are the ports larger inside?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the turbo opens 10 degrees earlier than the na, so its like a street port, other than that its identical

LoLsmileyFC

iTrader: (37)

would the s4 n/a lim bold up to a t2 or fd intermediate housing without port matching? im trying to see which intermediate housing to use on my n/a motor but ill be using s4 rotor housings, front and rear housings.

from what i read some porting can actually decrease engine life unless one was to resurface the housings after you port. if they are new housings id rather not port them

peejay

T2? Absolutely. The port runner is identical.

The problem you will run into is that you will develop an exhaust leak, because the T2 center housing has an air passage under the intake ports for ACV air to get to the exhaust ports. I dealt with this by putting a couple screws in the bottom of the manifold for "bite", globbing some putty-like epoxy (not JB Weld, too runny when setting up) onto the offending area, then sanding the surface flat again and matching it roughly to gasket shape. Stick a T2 intake gasket on a S4 N/A lower and what you need to do will become crystal clear.

I've read that porting makes the paint shinier.

Look, now we've both read completely false statements!

BrightEyes

subbin to see where you take this build. Im currently in the same situation as you, about to take the S4 6port block out for a rebuild and mild port. best of luck with the build!

REAmemiya_fan

Not started on the build yet, been getting the car itself driving again, but to keep me motivated, I found this great video of an NA 13B 6-port that performed absolutely great! No really meaty specs on the engine, but good god did it look like a blast to drive

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i think i see lexan windows....

back in the day ITS/PS1 was really popular, the rules were stock intake, stock block. so basically you get to play with the ECU and the exhaust. it makes for a fun car.

REAmemiya_fan

So my funds are building and building and I'm getting ready to purchase the rebuild kit from Atkins (after tearing down the engine to see why there's no compression in the rear rotor, from what I can see though, the apex seals are stuck in the rotor), what would be a better kit to buy, the master kit or kit c? I want it to be as fresh as possible, and depending on hoe the irons and housings look, I might send the irons to Karak to be lapped as well as the housings to be resurfaced, but I would like to not have to do that.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

after doing these engines for a really long time, and trying different methods the least expensive way that still ends up with a high quality result is to tear down the engine, and carefully inspect everything and then just order what you need.

if you're on a budget this is the best way because you're only replacing the parts that are needed to bring the engine into spec.

the downside is that it takes a really long time, there is almost a second build's worth of measuring/cleaning/inspection in it.

23Racer

I have built a 4 port ITB setup on my racecar and you guys are right in that it costs a lot more than youwould imagine. Even after building the intake myself, buying used Hayabusa bodies, fabbing the injector mounts up and using a Megasquirt, I am into this for well over $2,000. It works great, looks really cool, but if I was going to spend $2,000 on my car to go fast, there are other places to use it.

https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-forum-220/my-na-car-968585/

Just build a good solid flaxible car and go out and spend the money on track time and new brake pads and tires. You will go way faster sooner amping up your driver skill than by spending huge coin looking for 10 hp. Just my opinion.

Eric

REAmemiya_fan

Just received my rotary stand adapter today thanks to Pinapple Racing (thanks to Rob for getting it shipped out so quickly), so tuesday when I'm back in school and am back in the shop, I will be able to begin getting it on and start tearing it down. I still need to go out to the store to get the necessary orginizational items like pens, baggies, and containers to stay as clean and organized as possible during this rebuild. It being my very first on a rotary, I want it to go as cleanly and smoothly as possible. The only other engine I've ever rebuilt was a simple little lawnmower one, and then I started on a Nissan KA24E before selling it off to my friend who needed loads of parts to rebuild his.

So in short, wish me luck, and check back often. I will try to have daily updates on here as well as on my tumblr, but if progress isn't really as fast as I would want, then some days may not see those updates. The tear down won't happen until my car is ready to drive again though, so it may be a few days into the week before that happens.

I love and appreciate all the support and advice you guys/gals show/give. It really helps when you're a newbie. By the way, happy new years! May your rotary treat you well, and get those resolutions in full swing. Mine is to start my dream of racing, so instead of starting with autocross this year, I'm going to be competing at Chicago Indoor Racing karting series, had my first endurance race yesterday, and I definitely loved it. So it will be something to give me some experience before moving up to autocross while I build the car to compete.

REAmemiya_fan

I just took a look at the Defined autoworks header, and jesus christ $860 for that must be a good price for it to put down over 230 whp on an NA. That will be a for sure upgrade in the future, maybe i could snag a good condition used one but something tells me there aren't very many around

REAmemiya_fan

It is that time folks, my rebuild is in the process of tear-down, and I am really excited. Things that I am a little afraid of off the bat are getting the flywheel nut off, zero compression (I hear no puffs, except for an occasional one), and I'm wondering if something was wrong with one of the rotor housings because the front housing has a really light brown coating off the exhaust port, and the rear is black.

Here are some starter picks. It was interesting getting it on the stand just because the stand itself had a slight malfunction, but I didn't let that stop me. Props to the Pineapple racing stand adapter, really nice to have.

Okay, time for some pictures. Crap quality, but whatever, it's a phone not a DSLR. Hoping for some nice before and after shots by the time this is all over, and I hope I do a good job. I'm not leaving anything left untouched in some form or another, and I'm going to make sure I am as organized as I possibly can be. This is my first real rebuild so mistakes cannot be made.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669672833/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669672833/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669672929/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669672929/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669673197/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669673197/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669673331/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669673331/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669673619/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669673619/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669674079/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6669674079/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

And yes, I am a picture *****.

Btw, has anyone ran the cryo-treated Atkins parts or know anyone that has with good results?

REAmemiya_fan

Day Two:

Did mostly cleaning today. I hate working with dirty *** things, and it makes everything less enjoyable let alone safe to work with. So with the help of a couple buddies, we got the block cleaned and good enough for now. Then I got down to the disassembly itself. I forgot that I had to take off the front eccentric bolt before I could remove the front cover until after I had all the bolts out, bagged, and labeled.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676139297/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676139297/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676139897/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676139897/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

After taking off the oil pan (one bolt sheared, just my luck, on the rear housing. So i'll have to drill it out and tap it slightly larger.) I was able to inspect the oil pickup and a few other innards. The pickup looks excellent, so no need for replacement there. However, the center iron is cracked where the driver side engine mount bolts up to, so that will need to be replaced Oh well though, will serve as an excellent spare for me to practice porting and polishing a couple times before doing it on the irons I need to keep.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676140289/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676140289/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676140707/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676140707/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676141419/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676141419/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Cleaned the oil pan out as well, And I would like to just repaint the outside. The inside is just fine and I don't see a need to re-do that if I don't have to. What would you reccomend paint wise?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676141691/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676141691/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

And one last picture with the oil pickup removed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676141839/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/6676141839/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

rotarycrazy

iTrader: (8)

cant wait to see more. Doing almoust an identical build myself in next couple of weeks

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i've never seen a center iron like that, how odd. on the oil pan, you can use any old paint, i'd skip painting the inside.