Simple gain suggestions for n/a owners-
#76
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Pataskala, Ohio
Someone may read this and say you are full of sh**. BUT. I do see where you are coming from and 100% agree.
When thinking of it that way, which is not the wrong way by any means, you have to notice the where the power loss is coming from and where after you are gaining it.
Now you said something about springs, where in a rotary there are no valves so there are no springs, for some reason I think you know this..... Oh wait, you talking about the seal spings?
- A lightweight flywheel will increase power AFTER the flywheel not before it.
- Removing the air pump will increase available power at the crank.
- Switching to a race geared transmission (if you find one) will increase power AFTER the transmission, not before it.
- Installing a lighter aluminum driver shaft will increase power AFTER the driver shaft, not before it.
So your thinking is correct, if you put the engine on a engine dyno with all accesories and ran it, you would get say, 150BHP ( number being thrown out), you remove all the accessories and run the engine again, you could get say, 160BHP (another number being thrown out there). This is not saying the engine is producing more HP, only that more HP is available at the crank.
When thinking of it that way, which is not the wrong way by any means, you have to notice the where the power loss is coming from and where after you are gaining it.
Now you said something about springs, where in a rotary there are no valves so there are no springs, for some reason I think you know this..... Oh wait, you talking about the seal spings?
- A lightweight flywheel will increase power AFTER the flywheel not before it.
- Removing the air pump will increase available power at the crank.
- Switching to a race geared transmission (if you find one) will increase power AFTER the transmission, not before it.
- Installing a lighter aluminum driver shaft will increase power AFTER the driver shaft, not before it.
So your thinking is correct, if you put the engine on a engine dyno with all accesories and ran it, you would get say, 150BHP ( number being thrown out), you remove all the accessories and run the engine again, you could get say, 160BHP (another number being thrown out there). This is not saying the engine is producing more HP, only that more HP is available at the crank.
#77
You need to go study up on what the voltage regulator does and around what engine rpm you are typically at when it starts working. What you state would be true if alternator output were solely based on load demand. However it isn't. An alternator makes way too much power the faster it spins so we regulate this. From a parasitic horsepower standpoint, an electric fan is far more efficient. It's not to say that an added electical load on the system when it kicks on is necessarily a good thing. It's just to say that what you think happens, quite frankly doesn't.
#78
You think im new to this? Of course the alternator varies its output it would be hitting 16+v. No matter what the output of the alternator is, the electric fan will always put a load on it when it turns on and this load is way more than the clutch fan would ever do if you were at idle or slow cruise. The alternator is also not 100% efficient so you have to take the inefficiency into effect. If you read my writeup that I posted you can see I talk about this.
#79
you know ... i'm not really sure why i didn't see all of this coming, but i guess that just makes me more retarded than some of you are being.
the guy took time out of his day to post his personal findings and a ****-storm thus ensues? un-*******-believable!!! on the forum where every tom, dick, harry and numb-nuts yells, "well, where's the dyno sheet?" general info is shared WITH dyno sheets to boot and it's still not good enough.
i suppose i could see where some of the skepticism would have a place if he was preaching his findings as gospel or a "guaranteed" power increase, but he merely posted what he found and left it there for others to add what they have found. so far, unless i missed something, Robert (680RWHP12A) was the only person to add anything in 3 pages ... what the ****???
come on people. if you believe it, believe it. if you don't, don't. however, why is it necessary to insult him?
the guy took time out of his day to post his personal findings and a ****-storm thus ensues? un-*******-believable!!! on the forum where every tom, dick, harry and numb-nuts yells, "well, where's the dyno sheet?" general info is shared WITH dyno sheets to boot and it's still not good enough.
i suppose i could see where some of the skepticism would have a place if he was preaching his findings as gospel or a "guaranteed" power increase, but he merely posted what he found and left it there for others to add what they have found. so far, unless i missed something, Robert (680RWHP12A) was the only person to add anything in 3 pages ... what the ****???
come on people. if you believe it, believe it. if you don't, don't. however, why is it necessary to insult him?
#81
You think im new to this? Of course the alternator varies its output it would be hitting 16+v. No matter what the output of the alternator is, the electric fan will always put a load on it when it turns on and this load is way more than the clutch fan would ever do if you were at idle or slow cruise. The alternator is also not 100% efficient so you have to take the inefficiency into effect. If you read my writeup that I posted you can see I talk about this.
I'm curious, have you considered how much weight the fan adds to the front of the engine? Have you considered how weight affects rotating inertia? I suppose you're one of the people that also believes that an electric water pump doesn't free up any power for the same reason.
I'm not sure how long you've been into rotaries and could really care less but you still need to learn about alternators, how they work, and what draw they have mechanically on an engine in relation to regulated voltage. Also look up how much faster than the initial unloaded regulation point each additional required amp needs the alternator to spin to compensate.
You do realize that not only can you set up an electric fan to kick on or off with temperature, but that you can also set it up to not kick in above a certain speed. No parasitic load at all above a certain speed other than drag which always exists. This isn't hard to do and only requires a speed sensor to accomplish this. Above a certain speed the fan (all of them) does nothing useful. Above a certain speed, the fan spinning is a restriction. This is why a mechanical fan that has a locked clutch that keeps the fan engaged will cause an engine to overheat at high speeds.
Keep this in mind. If you made everything electric and in fact did increase the load on the alternator by the same parasitic amount as you claim it does, you couldn't spin the alternator with the belt it has. It would perpetually slip and you couldn't get it tight enough. Fortunately the voltage regulator and the way an alternator works prove this not to be true.
You may not believe me personally but do your homework and learn about it from somewhere so you don't pass on false information.
#82
I did read it. It's a good generalization with holes in it.
I'm curious, have you considered how much weight the fan adds to the front of the engine? Have you considered how weight affects rotating inertia? I suppose you're one of the people that also believes that an electric water pump doesn't free up any power for the same reason.
I'm curious, have you considered how much weight the fan adds to the front of the engine? Have you considered how weight affects rotating inertia? I suppose you're one of the people that also believes that an electric water pump doesn't free up any power for the same reason.
I'm not sure how long you've been into rotaries and could really care less but you still need to learn about alternators, how they work, and what draw they have mechanically on an engine in relation to regulated voltage. Also look up how much faster than the initial unloaded regulation point each additional required amp needs the alternator to spin to compensate.
You think there is holes, than fill em in instead of arguing.
You do realize that not only can you set up an electric fan to kick on or off with temperature, but that you can also set it up to not kick in above a certain speed. No parasitic load at all above a certain speed other than drag which always exists. This isn't hard to do and only requires a speed sensor to accomplish this. Above a certain speed the fan (all of them) does nothing useful. Above a certain speed, the fan spinning is a restriction. This is why a mechanical fan that has a locked clutch that keeps the fan engaged will cause an engine to overheat at high speeds.
Keep this in mind. If you made everything electric and in fact did increase the load on the alternator by the same parasitic amount as you claim it does, you couldn't spin the alternator with the belt it has. It would perpetually slip and you couldn't get it tight enough. Fortunately the voltage regulator and the way an alternator works prove this not to be true.
#84
Those are all good mods and I too believe the dyno sheets. I also just watched an episode of Horsepower TV and they dynoed a V8 with regular oil and then one with Royal purple and picked up an additional I think it was like 6-8 horsepower. Remember you may not feel the diff. with that much horsepower but everything adds up.
#85
Those are all good mods and I too believe the dyno sheets. I also just watched an episode of Horsepower TV and they dynoed a V8 with regular oil and then one with Royal purple and picked up an additional I think it was like 6-8 horsepower. Remember you may not feel the diff. with that much horsepower but everything adds up.
BC
#87
Originally posted by Trjackson
I have the solution. It is already in the works. A customer of Defined Autoworks just dynoed on Defined Autoworks dyno. It is a simple build. N/A 6 port with stock ports. Just basic bolt-ons with a tune and made 142. Within the next 2-3 weeks, the customer will be returning to us and we are redynoing the car. We are going to do a base pull, deinstall the clutch fan/install a e-fan, and redyno. We will post the results, it is what it will be.
Jackson
I have the solution. It is already in the works. A customer of Defined Autoworks just dynoed on Defined Autoworks dyno. It is a simple build. N/A 6 port with stock ports. Just basic bolt-ons with a tune and made 142. Within the next 2-3 weeks, the customer will be returning to us and we are redynoing the car. We are going to do a base pull, deinstall the clutch fan/install a e-fan, and redyno. We will post the results, it is what it will be.
Jackson
Not for the faint of heart....from Ray Green
rwhp is all that matters....that's what you're trying to get to stick. It'd be nice to see a number over 6 HP.
full disclosure--->I'm already running a Derale 17" E-fan.
#89
Jesus Christ!
Simple physis states that INSTALLING AN E-FAN WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR PEAK HP OR RWHP
You cannot make energy from nothing. Your engine spins your clutch fan. For arguments sake, it uses 10 watts. Your engine spins your alternator. IT ALSO USES 10 WATTS for the same amount of cooling. ----> AKA: You CAN NOT gain peak hp with an E-FAN! (unless your car has no alternator charging your battery...)
I say peak hp because what happens inbetween is another story. The resistance reduction on the engine from taking off the clutch fan will actually cause it to accelerate faster, but faster acceleration does not mean HP increase.
FORCE = MASS X ACCELERATION
Your engine produces a force equal to X, REGARDLESS of your fan. Take off the clutch fan and you reduce the MASS. To keep the equation in balance, aka when FORCE is still equal to X, ACCELERATION must increase.
So there it is.
Now as an afterthought for those who really want to get technical and into an exaplaination as to why a dyno may show increased hp...
As far as I know, an altenator has different 'levels' of duty, that is, it does not have a continuous range of possible current generation rates (controlled by ecu, voltage regulators).
So if your e-fan draws a low enoough current from the electrical system so as to not step the alernator up to the next level of duty, you will in fact enjoy an increase in RWHP, however, this means that your battery is draining, and at some point will need to be recharged by the alternator, thereby reducing this gain in RWHP to the normal clutch fan level (or more, actually). So on somedays you might dyno higher, some days you might dyno lower, based on this argument.
Simple physis states that INSTALLING AN E-FAN WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR PEAK HP OR RWHP
You cannot make energy from nothing. Your engine spins your clutch fan. For arguments sake, it uses 10 watts. Your engine spins your alternator. IT ALSO USES 10 WATTS for the same amount of cooling. ----> AKA: You CAN NOT gain peak hp with an E-FAN! (unless your car has no alternator charging your battery...)
I say peak hp because what happens inbetween is another story. The resistance reduction on the engine from taking off the clutch fan will actually cause it to accelerate faster, but faster acceleration does not mean HP increase.
FORCE = MASS X ACCELERATION
Your engine produces a force equal to X, REGARDLESS of your fan. Take off the clutch fan and you reduce the MASS. To keep the equation in balance, aka when FORCE is still equal to X, ACCELERATION must increase.
So there it is.
Now as an afterthought for those who really want to get technical and into an exaplaination as to why a dyno may show increased hp...
As far as I know, an altenator has different 'levels' of duty, that is, it does not have a continuous range of possible current generation rates (controlled by ecu, voltage regulators).
So if your e-fan draws a low enoough current from the electrical system so as to not step the alernator up to the next level of duty, you will in fact enjoy an increase in RWHP, however, this means that your battery is draining, and at some point will need to be recharged by the alternator, thereby reducing this gain in RWHP to the normal clutch fan level (or more, actually). So on somedays you might dyno higher, some days you might dyno lower, based on this argument.
Last edited by flipstar; 01-13-08 at 09:59 PM.
#90
Jesus Christ!
Simple physis states that INSTALLING AN E-FAN WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR PEAK HP OR RWHP
You cannot make energy from nothing. Your engine spins your clutch fan. For arguments sake, it uses 10 watts. Your engine spins your alternator. IT ALSO USES 10 WATTS for the same amount of cooling. ----> AKA: You CAN NOT gain peak hp with an E-FAN! (unless your car has no alternator charging your battery...)
I say peak hp because what happens inbetween is another story. The resistance reduction on the engine from taking off the clutch fan will actually cause it to accelerate faster, but faster acceleration does not mean HP increase.
FORCE = MASS X ACCELERATION
Your engine produces a force equal to X, REGARDLESS of your fan. Take off the clutch fan and you reduce the MASS. To keep the equation in balance, aka when FORCE is still equal to X, ACCELERATION must increase.
So there it is.
Now as an afterthought for those who really want to get technical and into an exaplaination as to why a dyno may show increased hp...
As far as I know, an altenator has different 'levels' of duty, that is, it does not have a continuous range of possible current generation rates (controlled by ecu, voltage regulators).
So if your e-fan draws a low enoough current from the electrical system so as to not step the alernator up to the next level of duty, you will in fact enjoy an increase in RWHP, however, this means that your battery is draining, and at some point will need to be recharged by the alternator, thereby reducing this gain in RWHP to the normal clutch fan level (or more, actually). So on somedays you might dyno higher, some days you might dyno lower, based on this argument.
Simple physis states that INSTALLING AN E-FAN WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR PEAK HP OR RWHP
You cannot make energy from nothing. Your engine spins your clutch fan. For arguments sake, it uses 10 watts. Your engine spins your alternator. IT ALSO USES 10 WATTS for the same amount of cooling. ----> AKA: You CAN NOT gain peak hp with an E-FAN! (unless your car has no alternator charging your battery...)
I say peak hp because what happens inbetween is another story. The resistance reduction on the engine from taking off the clutch fan will actually cause it to accelerate faster, but faster acceleration does not mean HP increase.
FORCE = MASS X ACCELERATION
Your engine produces a force equal to X, REGARDLESS of your fan. Take off the clutch fan and you reduce the MASS. To keep the equation in balance, aka when FORCE is still equal to X, ACCELERATION must increase.
So there it is.
Now as an afterthought for those who really want to get technical and into an exaplaination as to why a dyno may show increased hp...
As far as I know, an altenator has different 'levels' of duty, that is, it does not have a continuous range of possible current generation rates (controlled by ecu, voltage regulators).
So if your e-fan draws a low enoough current from the electrical system so as to not step the alernator up to the next level of duty, you will in fact enjoy an increase in RWHP, however, this means that your battery is draining, and at some point will need to be recharged by the alternator, thereby reducing this gain in RWHP to the normal clutch fan level (or more, actually). So on somedays you might dyno higher, some days you might dyno lower, based on this argument.
#91
RWHP is not straight engine HP, simple as that...all along, it has been made abundantly CLEAR that the parties to this 'debate' understand that...RWHP is all that matters to performance and is separate from engine HP...a 550 HP engine with a burned out clutch will register 0 RWHP on a dyno...any testing of components is pointless. An engine and drivetrain combo that is in good running order can establish a good baseline RWHP for that combo. Any component that raises that number can obviously increase RWHP even if it doesn't raise the actual HP of the engine at the crank...two separate things. I can hardly wait for that dyno run.
#92
i think you're preaching to the choir mar3. for those of us that understand that, we're waiting for the bullshit to end and have more legitimate contributions made to this thread. however, those that don't simply want to argue us all into oblivion. be careful before you hear that a good clutch is useless to the measurement of RWHP.
#94
Another nice thing about the E-fan conversion I had forgotten, but has nothing to do with rwhp, fwhp, awhp or crank hp, is that the car sure warms up a lot quicker for the heater during the cold season.
I know what you're saying D1, but when a guy takes Jesus name in vain to make an untrue statement...well, you gotta do something and the Spanish Inquisition is no longer a legal option...
I know what you're saying D1, but when a guy takes Jesus name in vain to make an untrue statement...well, you gotta do something and the Spanish Inquisition is no longer a legal option...
#95
Sooo lets see.
Take a 1983 Camaro... Put it on the CHASSIS Dyno.
Dyno It.
It makes 215HP on the Chassis Dyno. (Ok maybe 100 but run with it)
Now take off the 15 inch steel wheels, and replace them with...Super Swampers!!!! ON 28" Diameter Rims!!!
Now.. Dyno that bad boy before you bury it in the swamp.
It makes 75HP to the wheels!?!?!?!? WHY YOU SAY???
Well the ENGINE is still making the same HP.. but it is not making it to the Dyno/Road because it is being used to spin the larger diameter tires.
Its like MOI with Clutches and flywheels.
You hae a 28LB flywheel of stock diameter, that takes a given amount of HP to spin.
You change that flywheel to a button flywheel with a 5.5 inch clutch, and your MOI is a TON less.
If you RELLY wanna read something interesting.. look up the amount of HP it takes to spin a supercharger on a Top Fuel engine. IIRC its something in the area of 200-300 HP Just to spin the thing. (Granted thats a multi thousand HP engine)
Read this for some interesting information about Moment of Inertia in clutches. http://redhat3.admarkonline.com/~rcl...i_weight.phtml
Take a 1983 Camaro... Put it on the CHASSIS Dyno.
Dyno It.
It makes 215HP on the Chassis Dyno. (Ok maybe 100 but run with it)
Now take off the 15 inch steel wheels, and replace them with...Super Swampers!!!! ON 28" Diameter Rims!!!
Now.. Dyno that bad boy before you bury it in the swamp.
It makes 75HP to the wheels!?!?!?!? WHY YOU SAY???
Well the ENGINE is still making the same HP.. but it is not making it to the Dyno/Road because it is being used to spin the larger diameter tires.
Its like MOI with Clutches and flywheels.
You hae a 28LB flywheel of stock diameter, that takes a given amount of HP to spin.
You change that flywheel to a button flywheel with a 5.5 inch clutch, and your MOI is a TON less.
If you RELLY wanna read something interesting.. look up the amount of HP it takes to spin a supercharger on a Top Fuel engine. IIRC its something in the area of 200-300 HP Just to spin the thing. (Granted thats a multi thousand HP engine)
Read this for some interesting information about Moment of Inertia in clutches. http://redhat3.admarkonline.com/~rcl...i_weight.phtml
#96
Try reading my post before making redundant arguments. I already proved what you said was true (F=ma.....).
My argument was that the energy to power an e-fan comes from somewhere, as opposed to nowhere, which is what most people seem to be thinking.
So remember, before you try and debate something, understand what you are trying to debate.
My argument was that the energy to power an e-fan comes from somewhere, as opposed to nowhere, which is what most people seem to be thinking.
So remember, before you try and debate something, understand what you are trying to debate.
#98
Update. The customer will be dynoing February 2nd(depending on weather). The customer was suppose to dyno this weekend, however due to the shity weather ohio is about to take, he cancelled. We will have the results and vid shortly after the dyno.
I am eagerly awaiting this day.
Jackson
I am eagerly awaiting this day.
Jackson
#100
Pretty much everything you CAN do to a NA to make it more power has already been stated here and in other posts throughout the years...I wonder if we could merge the beefy Na thread into here!