Hey guys I would like to pick your brains on some idea's. I had a blown out o-ring on my front cover at the end of last years race season and I have finally fixed it. I have now gotten the car started for the first time this year and now it idles real rough. I did not put anything into the engine over the winter. I'm wondering if i have a stuck seal as it idles like running on one rotor. When you rev the engine up it revs but kinda sounds like its missing a bit. The car has 3mm carbon seals in GSL-SE rotors. Is there something i can pour into my peripheral port to free it up. The engine starts right up without missing a beat. I know i should have poured some oil into the engine for the winter. I really don't want to have to pull the engine to see what is going on inside.

 

Marvel Myster Oil and spin it by hand, then let it sit, should soak into the seals and free them if they are stuck.

 

pull the intake off and you can check em yourself! how are the plugs?

 

The plugs are black. They are not soaked in fuel just black. I have to fit a new header so I will most likely check the seals at that point. I'm just wondering if sitting for the winter the rotors built up some rust.

 

unlikely, they are covered in oily goo! it could also be something in the carb as well.

 

First do a compression test. This will tell you if you have compression on all 3 faces for each rotor. Make sure you take the schraeder valve out of the compression tester and while cranking the engine over look at the needle on the compression guage. YOu should see three even needle sweeps that go up and down for each rotor. If you don't then you have a stuck or bad seal somewhere. For exammple:If you have one stuck apex seal, the compression needle will show one jump up followed by two that stay down because the compression is leaking past two faces due to the stuck seal. If you had a stuck side seal than you would have two bumps up followed by one that would stay down. Get it? Just picture the rotor inside the housing and what the seals actually seal. If the compression checks out ok then you would next check your ignition. Make sure your getting spark to all 4 spark plugs. I would even throw in a new set of spark plugs to be sure. If that checks out ok then move to your fuel. Make sure your getting enough fuel to the carb. Check fuel filters and pressure. Then remove all your jets in your carb and clean them out with compressed air. Lastly check for vacuum leaks. That pretty much covers everything that could cause a rough idle, unless you have a serious balance issue with the rotating assy.

 

I took the car off the jack stands and started it up so i could burp the rest of the air out of the system. After idling for ten minutes i got my brap brap lumpy idle as my stuck seal free'd up. got my nice black soot coming from the tail pipe. 110F10 idle jets at work. Next year i will be putting some thing in the engine so i dont get rust. i thank for your insight and help. lets see if this thing can make some power this year.

 

Sta-bil sells a Fogging Spray just for winter storage. Run engine while spraying down intake, spray till it stalls. Then spray some into plug holes and turn over by hand. WD-40 and turn over by hand before starting in the spring with some 7 or 8 heat range plugs to burn it all off quicker.

What heat range plug normally? Black is bad, it should be mocha colored. Even the 3 rotor peripheral ports that Speedsource runs have a powdered mocha colored tail pipe.

 

i would say its more like a light almond

but yeah just about every race car has a light colored tail pipe