13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Any updates buddy?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

no worries, man. i ended up not making it down there that weekend anyway. i had no idea you wrote this. you know things are bad when you don't even check in on your own thread, eh. believe me, if you still have it when i'm ready, consider it sold.

well, the truth is i lost my job and have yet to find a new one, so the engine build is stalled pretty much where my last post left off. i have since moved most of it up to NY with me so that whenever i start working again, it will take first priority (after my bills, of course). i suppose i could have done a little bit here and there, but after making so many positive strides a few months ago only to come to such an abrupt stop, i've been a bit disgusted. i'm at a point where i need parts and, sadly, all the positive thoughts, ability and encouragement in the world can't substitute for money.


thanks for checking in though. how have things been with you?

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to hear about you losing you job!

I'm still up in PA. I got one of my motors built and i should be throwing another one together in the next month or so.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

so either of you trying to do the semi without a sleeve? just by filling with epoxy and bore through. i cant see why this wouldnt work. it would save a bunch of time and money...

ziig

iTrader: (1)

i have done a few PP ad used sleeves with devcon to seal the gaps...use a little water on your finger to smooth it out and spread it...then when it cures you can sand it clean..
looks good so far dude good luck with your job hunting...........
are you going to weld tubes on manifold? or use devcon to make new passage? any pics on manifold mods?
biggest problem with epoxy is expasion rate vs aluminum..it is much closer to steel wich as you know aluminum expands 2 as much as steel..........i never really had any problems with devcon aluminm epoxy though ...that seems to be close to aluminum expansion rates..however i have seen devcon move away after about a year of serious racing....lol



henry

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

Maybe i read the first line wrong. but it sayd you used devcon with the sleeves. this is how its always done. what i want is to use no sleeve at all.

Before the hole gets bored through the housing. fill the entire area with aluminum devcon. then have the PP or semi-pp bore strait through the housing and devcon. do not add a sleeve at all. so the devcon would actually be the sleeve.

is that what you have done?

black06g85

iTrader: (3)

tagged for info.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

well, not to speak out of turn here, but it sounds like he did it like i (and every other semi-pp that i'm aware of) have done it. however, what i'd like to point out is that he also mentioned the Devcon started to "move" after a year. i don't know if this is "normal" or even common, but it does show it's possible. you never know if running without a sleeve can lead to a mishap, at least, that's my thought.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

thats true. but he said "serious racing". so im not sure of how many runs he means down the track. but for the most part. i dont plan on leaving a motor unopened for more than 30-40 runs. so it wouldnt be much of a problem to knock out the epoxy (if it came loose or migrated some) and refill then rebore. the housings would already have the holes and you could probly just use a drill press at home. or if you have steady hands a hand held drill to get through the epoxy.

im not speaking from experience though. just ideas.

ziig

iTrader: (1)

I only had this shrinkage occur once..it may have been a off batch of devcon though...I have seen racing beats clear stuff they use shrink some too....so its not unusual...We run about 15-20 races a year and in very hot climate too...caribbean .....engine temps usually run at 180 so it shouldnt real be a variable ....
as for the actuall no sleeve just epoxy....I dont think it will be a huge deal if your going to pull and monitor regularly, but i wont personnally risk a peice breaking and sucking into apex seals....why dont you make aluminium peices that fit the wter jacket area perfectly go all the way to the port area and weld it in place, then clean it with porting tool? I juts thought of that and it sounds like it might work..lol....eliminates the devcon doesnt it?
my 2 cents...

henry

ziig

iTrader: (1)

hahha just looked at my spelling...its late and i am working till midnight..lol with guys asking questions constantly...typing + giving directions = spelling mistakes...LOL

GSLSE-YA

Have there been other threads on the semi-Periph? It would be interesting to see results of the semi-P combined with different configurations of side porting. I've got a Bridgeport (non-J), was looking at adding a semi PP to my motor this winter.

GSLSE-YA

never mind, I found them. It would be nice to get full PP hp, but with a slightly broader power band, say 7.5k - 10,000rpm, with peak hp around 320-340whp.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

so have you made a decision on whether or not you'll give it a try?


anyway, even though your next post said you found some stuff to read, this post reminded me of something that i had wanted to do since starting this thread. i wanted to include links to some of the related threads on the board. so here goes:

Semi peripheral porting by nkeehn

Semi PP + BP + Turbo by RotaryBoyz

Semi P-Port by DriftingRex

Semi P-Port questions by Pic

What can I gain going Semi P-Port? by BUSTN

New type of port: the Bridgial by wupwup

Semi P-Port by nick812

Semi PP + Rotor Beveling by Marcel Burkett

Peripheral port and Semi PP Concepts and Questions by Snrub

Help me get my Semi PP Turbo to start by z8cw

Semi PP Cosmo Block tuning help by wickedrx2

Semi PP or Bridge port by SavannaRx7

My Rx-7 is done with cup holders! And a 3-rotor Semi-PP setup, stock subframe by GtoRx7


hope these can be of some use to others. when i have time i'll try to find some from other sources i may (or may not) have read and gathered information.

GSLSE-YA

Thanks for the links!

No final decisions yet. I'm trying to come up with a couple options, then go from there. I'm restricted to around 232whp (dynojet) in the race class that I'm currently running. I've been thinking about running the next class up, but there is a fairly big difference in power to weight ratio allowed between classes. With my current weight, I would have to run around 335-337whp to maximize the class with my car. I think I can do this with a proper full PP, or J-bridge and semi PP combo. I just had a sweet sheet metal intake manifold made for my bridge, but haven't put it on yet. If I run the semi PP, we can run 2 additional runners from the ports to the plenum. I would have to pull the motor apart in the off season (this winter) and change the porting from a normal bridge to a J bridge.

My current motor with a stock 3rd gen intake manifold has made up to 242whp at 24* timing and 91 octane with AFR's in the high 13's. I have it slightly detuned at 22* timing and AFR's in the low to mid 13's to meet my class.

GSLSE-YA

I'm open to suggestions. I'm not sure how much power people have made with the semi PP. I know how much power we can get from a J bridge, so a semi PP added to it should do the trick. Would it have a slightly broader power range than a straight PP?

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

all the big HP numbers seem to been unknown either because people arnt telling, or they dont know. I know the all motor guys around here like to tune at the track and the cars never touch a dyno. wich is the best way. but i have heard close to 400 whp all motor has been done. no proof though...

also, i been looking into this new epoxy for semi-pp hen filling the coolant passages. but it has a heat rating of 2400* F!!! JB weld and Devcon only have a range of 500-600* F. so im thinking it can be used in the exhaust area with (exhaust temps only reaching 1600-1700* normally). By removing the sleeves and using the epoxy to form a much better flowing exhaust. what do you guys think?

http://automotive-oilsandfluids.blog...high-temp.html


and also this one at the bottom of the page:

http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/rm_putties.htm

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

GSLSE-YA, until more knowledgable/experienced players chime in, i'll start answering your question like this:

1. as far as numbers are concerned, 310 is the highest that i am aware of. i've tried to get my hands on other confirmed numbers, but so far nothing. that was Judge Ito that shared his results (if i recall it was without the bottle). i would consider his results to be above what the average person could expect, given his experience and body of knowledge alone. i also suspect that there may be people that know how to get just that much more, but until i see/hear it, that's just my gut speaking - not worth **** to me or you, i'm sure.

2. as far as powerband is concerned, though i don't recall seeing his graph, i suspect his would be a tad on the narrow side because he's drag racing. however, i would bet that you could tweak it for a wider powerband by getting fancy with port timing, port size and intake manifold designs.

i take it you won't be running turbo due to rules, so this graph will mean squat for your application, but it's soooo frickin' cool.

13B-RX3's results

20BENZ

Very interesting idea... maybe worth a thread of it's own?

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

^ maybe, im going to try it anyways. I already started on it. but I have a few ongoing projects wich take up time, so i will not have results right away.

GSLSE-YA

I've heard of 330whp from a full PP. I haven't seen the dyno sheet, but it's from a reliable source. I've been told it's not that difficult as long as you have a big enough PP.

2" is too small, more like 2.5" - 2 3/4"
Obviously the bigger the port and higher the horsepower, the higher the rpm. I allready have the RB super light 89-91 rotors and an rx8 e shaft, balanced, ceramic apex seals, and all the good bearings, journals, etc. I also am currently running a mazda comp dry sump system. I might spring for the australian 2 piece e shaft when I make the jump. I need all the reliability that I can, I would like the motor to last through an entire season.

GSLSE-YA

I'd also like to do it all with 91* octane with 2 cycle mix, like I'm currently running. Means I won't be running much timing. I think many of the guys that are getting 350-400whp are using race gas or other forms of race fuel, which means they can run a lot of timing.

If I make the switch this winter, maybe I will post dyno sheets.

I've never posted my current dyno sheet, I need to scan it in. I didn't want to post anything before NASA nationals. I ended up with electrical problems that put me out after the first day. It's all been worked out now.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if you wanted to stay in the current class, since you've already met the max HP, the trick would be to make the powerband as flat and broad as possible.

next class up, might be full PP or 3 rotor or something

these are good problems! if we put the honda in PT, we're overweight and underpowered...

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

the people that are making 350 plus all motor are running pure meth and are drag cars.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Talk to Carlos at CLR Motorsports. They're running close to 400hp if you do the math on the trap speed on their NA drag cars. PP