max HP on 12A without opening the motor??
#1
max HP on 12A without opening the motor??
without opening the motor how much HP it attainable in naturally aspirated form?
here are my engine mods:
85 12a with 40k miles on rebuild (stock port )
RB race header
RB streetport exhaust (header back) with magnaflow muffler
RB intake manifold (upper/lower)
mikuni 44 side draft carb's
carter fuel pump
holley regulator set @ 4.5 psi
all emissions stuff removed
air conditioning removed
E-fan
now i know that i could def improve my ignition system but other than that it looks like thats it ...or am i missing something?
here are my engine mods:
85 12a with 40k miles on rebuild (stock port )
RB race header
RB streetport exhaust (header back) with magnaflow muffler
RB intake manifold (upper/lower)
mikuni 44 side draft carb's
carter fuel pump
holley regulator set @ 4.5 psi
all emissions stuff removed
air conditioning removed
E-fan
now i know that i could def improve my ignition system but other than that it looks like thats it ...or am i missing something?
#4
thanks guys.
im just very intimidated by opening up a rotary to port the housings. ive built push rod motors in the past with great success but a rotary kinda scares me. my 12a has low miles on it and was built by a shop in ohio. if i was to tear it apart and port the housings, would i have to replace all the seals/bearings etc as if it was a fresh rebuild?
im just very intimidated by opening up a rotary to port the housings. ive built push rod motors in the past with great success but a rotary kinda scares me. my 12a has low miles on it and was built by a shop in ohio. if i was to tear it apart and port the housings, would i have to replace all the seals/bearings etc as if it was a fresh rebuild?
#5
Soft seals should be replaced yes, that whole kit is only a hundred something dollars. Hard seals it depends on how worn they are but probably not. Bearings would most likely not need replacing
#6
Pete has shown me exactly how much CAN be reused when rebuilding. Although the apex seals themselves is a worthwhile component to replace unless your flat *** broke or you happen to have very nice unworn set when you crack the engine open.
Also helps to try to keep parts where they came from...but that is not the top at hand.
Also helps to try to keep parts where they came from...but that is not the top at hand.
#7
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
most of the engines ive been taking apart recently, need side seals and bearings.
the rotor housings are usually worn to the point where putting new apex seals in would be a waste of new apex seals....
at 20k though, anything replaced last time should be nice still, you just get to change the stuff they didnt
the rotor housings are usually worn to the point where putting new apex seals in would be a waste of new apex seals....
at 20k though, anything replaced last time should be nice still, you just get to change the stuff they didnt
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#8
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
oh and if you really want max hp, yawpower's got a good write up on how to do it
http://www.yawpower.com/goodmotorarticle.html
http://www.yawpower.com/goodmotorarticle.html
#9
Probably best to leave the engine block alone, then. You've got all the good stuff except for the carb... a 44mm carb is way too small. A 45mm DCOE feels like a stock carb setup. Get a nice 48mm carb on it and a better intake manifold, or a Racing Beat Holley setup. (Not a RB manifold with a generic Holley, get the whole setup, it's worth it!)
#10
Probably best to leave the engine block alone, then. You've got all the good stuff except for the carb... a 44mm carb is way too small. A 45mm DCOE feels like a stock carb setup. Get a nice 48mm carb on it and a better intake manifold, or a Racing Beat Holley setup. (Not a RB manifold with a generic Holley, get the whole setup, it's worth it!)
i already have a racing beat manifold on the car
#12
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immanuel__7
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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09-05-15 11:23 AM