I will start building the REPU a new motor in the next month or so. It will be a large street port using probably FD plates, and exhaust ports will be HUGE!!! Keeping the Weber 48mm DCO. Roughly 250 at the wheels is my goal, hope I make it.

 

lovin the na thread. Sure hope to gain enough knowledge over the near future to plan a rebuild on my s5 vert that will create a nice reliable, quick, street car...(and yeah getting na milage while doing it would be even better considering how much gas is nowadays). Trying to determine if a t2 based streetport with my s5 rotors would be the right mix or maybe a modified t2 intake on my 6 port block. Props to GTO for puttin down 206...those huge secondary ports on the RE must be plenty useable with the right ems and tune. Roen, thanks for starting this thread, are you running that rtec standalone or just on fuel to achieve 170hp on stock ports?

 

rtek fuel + timing.....hopefully dynoing it again soon to verify power numbers.

I literally got out of my SAFC'ed RB Road Race'd 91 Coupe and into my Rtek'd RB Collected Header Exhaust Lightweight Flywheel'd GTUs.......the difference was friggin' significant.....props to the Rtek.

The GTUs is so much more responsive on the throttle, so much quicker acceleration, so much more fun to drive.

 

just out of curiosity, how long has your current motor been been in service in the PU?

 

That motor has been in it since 2000. It came from the junk yard out of an 85k mile car, so it probably has in the neighborhood of 120k on it. I compression tested it the other day though and only was able to get 45psi, so time for a new one!

 

Props to this thread. How about lightened rotors, etc. for a higher redline? I'd think that with a street port you could get at least another 10HP that way. I mean, the pport guys do it anyway (I know it helps more for them, but still). So if that works, it'd bring the mark up to, what, 215?

 

More Rpms will not do anything for you in power, unless the breathing of the engine can support it. The torque falls off on most streetports before even 8000rpms, let alone 9k+.

 

An engine rebalance is probably also in order for that.

 

well one thing some of you guys can try to get that extra 10-20hp out of your motor

"The CryO2 Air Intake consists of an aerodynamically designed bulb with a cryogenic chamber which is mounted in a 4" segment of air tube. The air passes over the bulb, heat is removed from the air charge resulting in a colder, denser, more powerful charge. Dyno testing showed a reduction in intake air temperature of more than 50 degrees. The CryO2 Air Intake can be used on turbocharged, supercharged or naturally aspirated applications. Multiple units can be used for colder results. Installs in minutes and comes with silicone connection sleeve, hose clamps and connection / vent hose."

If you can get that 30F super dense air charge in your motor you should get that extra power

 

Thats interesting however I wonder who long a tank would last.

 

Ill be checking this thread, I cant contribute cause im building a bridge. But I think some people can make some really good power with the N/A's. And Dynos are a PLUS!!

 

Soon as the wife goes back to work will be squirreling some cash away to try to finish the EProd motor.
Will post numbers when done.. but it will be a few months. Working on EvilAviators 20B heavy currently. Trying to get it closer to ready to maybe go to Deals Gap.
Either way, I will have the ITA/7 1st gen there. And if the wife makes enough cash.. possibly the EP car instead LOL.

 

Yeah this deffinatly is going to get good!

Makes me want to dyno my car stock right now just for a starting point.

 

I was wondering if you could use a 13B Rew from a 3rd gen with S5 rotors, sence rews have a bigger port to start with, then street port plus all the regular up grades and tuning to reach those na all time high numbers??

 

Here is an engine I built for a friends car:

T2 N/A (yep, it's a four port) rebuilt using the apex seals that came out of the engine.... still has 9.0:1 rotors, large street port, stock T2 intake manifold, Haltech E6x, and Racing Beat Header/Collector.

193 RWHP @~7500 RPM
141 RWTQ @~7000 RPM

GTO RX7 is right, street ports usually don't make peak horsepower much higher than 7500 RPM, maybe 8000 RPM with a shorter runner intake manifold.

 

Cool idea. I might jump in on this as soon as i've bought a house(too much stuff to do right now)

Whats the prize ? Braggin' rights..
Could be cool if some vendors would raise the stakes with some products, just little **** like oil, a set of apex seals or whatever.

 

Great Numbers there. What are you running for wheels, Flywheel, injectors?

Because that's pretty darn good number for reused seals and the low compression rotors.

 

I would like to build a 200 Plus Na engine and put it agaist a RX8 just to see who would win.

 

I know that you can make some HUGE ports with the NA 6port Irons, you can do this.

This is not my porting

 

If I'm not mistaken that just a 6 port made into a 4 by joining the top and bottom together.

 

You have to remember a stock rx8 only puts out about 170ish whp, and about 125 ft-lb of torque ... not that hard to beat considering added weight neither.

 

Wheels=86 phone dials
Flywheel=stock s5 t2
Clutch=Exceddy Street/strip (heavy duty pressure plate and organic disc)
Injectors=stock t2 injectors (550cc/min)
ECU=Haltech E6x
Coils=Stock t2 coils (custom mounted in the FB)
Spark Plugs=Stock t2 spark plugs (NGK)

The key here is to use a 4 port, as 6 ports do not seem to make nearly the same power in N/A form. Also, getting a stand alone is key because you get rid of the extremely restrictive mass airflow sensor.

The engine made 105 psi compression after a HARD break-in. Why was it broken in again? The apex & side seals on the rear rotor were accidentally jumbled, so they couldn't go back into their original position. When we replaced the coolant seals and o-rings after break-in, we tried a "soft" break-in (low loads up to 4-5k rpm) and the compression only rose from 70psi to 75psi over 450 miles. Then, I decided to beat the hell out of it (WOT up to 8000 RPM) and the compression magically rose from 75psi to 105psi in a matter of 200 more miles.

I have theories for why hard break-ins produce higher compression numbers, but that is a topic for another thread and would be widely disputed... But I have many friends and professionals in the V8 performance industry who agree that hard break-ins are the way to go.

I'm now a firm believer in hard break-ins ONLY IF YOUR BEARINGS ARE PROPERLY CLEARANCED OR USED! Otherwise, you can spin a bearing....

 

One thing that I can think of that would raise power that hasen't been mentioned. Bevelling of the rotors. The E prod guys do this and it really seems to help. I think there was a subject thread on this about a year ago. Some of the power gains quoted were pretty signifigant.

I really like the thread so far.

Peacedog out.

 

I would love to hear you theory on hard break-in. I am curious though, what was your side seal to corner seal clearence? That is a hugh jump in compression. I've seen similar results with varying side seals to corner seal clearences on my personal engine.

 

If you google it, there are quite a few people that do hard break ins. General concensus seems to be that if you have a newer car or engine, because of technology you can do it and improve on things. But with older parts and engine doesn't seem to be the wisest. But thats just reading and not trying it out both. I broke mine slowly and got pretty good compression.