Drifting with an N/A
#26
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#30
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My injected bridge idles all day at 1000 rpm without a problem. And now that the engine has finished breaking in and the compression has come up on the carbons shes really pretty tame. As long as its not a daily driver then people shouldn't be so scared to tackle a bridge or P-Port project, they really are awesome fun
.
As for the exhaust why not get one of those electronic bypass systems where you can go from a quiet setup to your power setup with the flick of a switch. My car uses a 3" setup with a 3" straight through pre-silencer and 3" straight through muffler and it is crazy loud. Not much of a problem here you can usually get away with a loud exhaust in South Africa thankfully but you may have to find a way around it if you want the full potential from your motor.
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As for the exhaust why not get one of those electronic bypass systems where you can go from a quiet setup to your power setup with the flick of a switch. My car uses a 3" setup with a 3" straight through pre-silencer and 3" straight through muffler and it is crazy loud. Not much of a problem here you can usually get away with a loud exhaust in South Africa thankfully but you may have to find a way around it if you want the full potential from your motor.
i have no clue why, but its not loud at all inside mine.... outside, well, um yeah a little
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#37
Street Dancer
i drift n/a fc, mild mods. i have a blast and no issues drifting. power is not a problem or will never be. it might be an issue when going into professional drifting cuz i watch lil ae86 lag behind a lil. otherwise you do not need crazy mods to drift competitvely!!! i do reccommend new/aftermarket cooling system. rotarys hate heat. also i hate drifting mainly in second gear so a new trany or diff will help ur ratios out. but if youre a begginner and dont plan on being a pro for a few years lol just get ur fc reliable and keep it cool and go out and drift. to be a good drifter you dont need power and this other bs. you need seat time!!! learn ur car and how it reacts.
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#40
i drift n/a fc, mild mods. i have a blast and no issues drifting. power is not a problem or will never be. it might be an issue when going into professional drifting cuz i watch lil ae86 lag behind a lil. otherwise you do not need crazy mods to drift competitvely!!! i do reccommend new/aftermarket cooling system. rotarys hate heat. also i hate drifting mainly in second gear so a new trany or diff will help ur ratios out. but if youre a begginner and dont plan on being a pro for a few years lol just get ur fc reliable and keep it cool and go out and drift. to be a good drifter you dont need power and this other bs. you need seat time!!! learn ur car and how it reacts.
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What suspension are you running?
#41
Street Dancer
ive been trying to find the right suspension for a while. i started a ground control thread. i sold my bbs rims and the gc sleeves have been ordered. ive been running cut springs for couple years but no to stock for the time. i will continue reading this cuz im interested in getting itbs for my 13b. and good question, why hasnt anyone done n/a build for drifting? besides mad mike and grip racers. grip meaning circuit and time attack
#42
ive been trying to find the right suspension for a while. i started a ground control thread. i sold my bbs rims and the gc sleeves have been ordered. ive been running cut springs for couple years but no to stock for the time. i will continue reading this cuz im interested in getting itbs for my 13b. and good question, why hasnt anyone done n/a build for drifting? besides mad mike and grip racers. grip meaning circuit and time attack
#44
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ive been out of the 7 game for a while but im going to be buying an S5 NA here soon from a buddy and i mainly want it as a second weekender/drift meet beater lol
having said that...
I would not run ITBs on a daily. If you do, you would want to filter them and then it decreases much of the gain of having ITBs. Running unfiltered ITBs is pretty iffy cuz those things just suck whatever is around in and all the dust and **** will probably ruin your engine over a period of time. Plus it won't do as much for you unless you had a bridgeport+ or something, which is why you generally see em on PP.
For a starter setup you don't need to worry so much about power, like what Rotary Junkie is talking about. I would just strip it (if you wish...not everyone that dailies likes living with a stripped car), get some decent suspension setup going, get some drift spares to like 50-60psi in the rear and obviously an LSD and call it a fun day.
Thats pretty much what I'm planning on doing. Eventually i would like to rebuild it into a bridgeport motor, but im not worried about it. I definitely think turboIIs are sweet and everything but there is just too much **** to worry about. You can drift both NA and turbo, so I would rather have the one that will more than likely have less down time and more drifting time.
Whats the highest ratio final drive stock for these cars? And do the N/As already have it? I dont recall..if anything a final drive swap to something like a 4.56 or 4.77 would be pretty sweet too...assuming it lets you be in a good gear for drift. I just did some quick research and you could use the 4.30 out of the GTUs...Rotary Performance sells the set for 450...
having said that...
I would not run ITBs on a daily. If you do, you would want to filter them and then it decreases much of the gain of having ITBs. Running unfiltered ITBs is pretty iffy cuz those things just suck whatever is around in and all the dust and **** will probably ruin your engine over a period of time. Plus it won't do as much for you unless you had a bridgeport+ or something, which is why you generally see em on PP.
For a starter setup you don't need to worry so much about power, like what Rotary Junkie is talking about. I would just strip it (if you wish...not everyone that dailies likes living with a stripped car), get some decent suspension setup going, get some drift spares to like 50-60psi in the rear and obviously an LSD and call it a fun day.
Thats pretty much what I'm planning on doing. Eventually i would like to rebuild it into a bridgeport motor, but im not worried about it. I definitely think turboIIs are sweet and everything but there is just too much **** to worry about. You can drift both NA and turbo, so I would rather have the one that will more than likely have less down time and more drifting time.
Whats the highest ratio final drive stock for these cars? And do the N/As already have it? I dont recall..if anything a final drive swap to something like a 4.56 or 4.77 would be pretty sweet too...assuming it lets you be in a good gear for drift. I just did some quick research and you could use the 4.30 out of the GTUs...Rotary Performance sells the set for 450...
#45
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K!nch wow i cant believe this is the first time ive seen you post here. This is Slide from drift.com Im also interested in this i love the sound of high revving NAs andi dont really feel like setting up a whole turbo set up for just 200-250hp.
#46
https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226/official-drift-setup-thread-877465/page25/
#47
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From wat I've gathered from my research and thought (which ain't al that great )
Power isn't every thing
A stock 240 with small add ons drifts amazing
It's all in the suspension and tires
The power of the car can b affected by the way it handles
To squishi and it hugs and rolls
To tight and ur in for a rough ride
So if u wer to balance ur tires with the right suspension (toe , camber , and Hight ) then u will drift nicely.....
U have to change your car from wanting to grip and hug ( which they do sooooo well ) ( mountain roads are Fun!!! ) to being stiff n sturdy ( god that sounds bad )
Force x mass = acceleration
Change the two to alter acceleration to allow for slippage
Also use a t2 trans they can hold a lot more punishment
Buy a lower diff count to allow for faster acceleration
Lighten car
Stiffen chasses with supports
And presto u have a drift able car
Power isn't every thing
A stock 240 with small add ons drifts amazing
It's all in the suspension and tires
The power of the car can b affected by the way it handles
To squishi and it hugs and rolls
To tight and ur in for a rough ride
So if u wer to balance ur tires with the right suspension (toe , camber , and Hight ) then u will drift nicely.....
U have to change your car from wanting to grip and hug ( which they do sooooo well ) ( mountain roads are Fun!!! ) to being stiff n sturdy ( god that sounds bad )
Force x mass = acceleration
Change the two to alter acceleration to allow for slippage
Also use a t2 trans they can hold a lot more punishment
Buy a lower diff count to allow for faster acceleration
Lighten car
Stiffen chasses with supports
And presto u have a drift able car
#48
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nobody thinks about using a miata with a rotary? with our track miata with a renesis in it and 4.8 r&p you need to balance the the throttle in 3rd or it will slide the back while running slicks, it has -2 degrees of camber in the rear and huge spoiler on the hatch (which limits top speed to 180kph).. it's running bilstein dampers and 7kg springs in the rear, stock anti roll bars.. excellent handling on track =)
#49
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i drifted two n/a fc's it was absolutely terrible
one was 180whp n/a s5 with coilovers and open diff
other was 140whp with springs/shocks and torsen i think
so hard to drive can barely break the tires loose(stock 15's). it was no fun at all.
one was 180whp n/a s5 with coilovers and open diff
other was 140whp with springs/shocks and torsen i think
so hard to drive can barely break the tires loose(stock 15's). it was no fun at all.
#50
Stock mags are 16's, on my GXL anyways, and changing over to lighter rims. 17's in my case, makes it a lot easier to break them loose and drift. I can do it even with just power over with that one little change.
EDIT - Also did change the intake with something better than the freakishly crappy stock one.
EDIT - Also did change the intake with something better than the freakishly crappy stock one.
Last edited by prime; 11-24-10 at 10:59 PM.