6port bridgeport question
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DILLIGAF
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6port bridgeport question
when bridgeporting a 6port is it necessary to use t2 housings? cause im not sure wether to remove the exhaust port baffle. if i were to remove it would i lose any performance?
#6
The Shadetree Project
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there is only been one sucessfull bridgeport 6 port to my knowlege. It was a full bridge on all 6 ports build by Judge Ito. There is a video of it racing a turbo2 and beating it over and over again. The only problem was that it was totaled before any numbers came from it. Do not bridge just the aux port as it has been done unsucessfully multipule times. I'm considering bridging just the bottom port on the secondary housings. Only because it hasn't been done before and I want to see what the results would be. It would have the early opening of a normal BP with the late closing of the Aux port. I have no idea if it would work, but I'm thinking about trying it one of these days. mind you that my car is hardly stock. I use a weber 48IDA and custom well thought out exhaust system that will cahnge once I go bridgy!
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mazda has published some SAE papers, and you can look at port timings too
the stock 6 port engines close at between 75 and 80 degrees ATDC and the PP engine which is the full race max hp engine closes at 80 ATDC.
if you bridge the aux port you keep it open longer. at that point you're open way later than even the full race motor, and well into the compression stroke.
the advantage of a bridge is that instead of the stock -35 BTDC OPENING timing of the stock port, you can have something that opens BEFORE TDC. the PP engine opens at 80 BTDC 6 port opens 115 degrees later, AFTER TDC.
is this PROOF that aux bridging can never work? no, its not, but it seems like a better idea to use the bridge to open earlier, we KNOW that works.
the stock 6 port engines close at between 75 and 80 degrees ATDC and the PP engine which is the full race max hp engine closes at 80 ATDC.
if you bridge the aux port you keep it open longer. at that point you're open way later than even the full race motor, and well into the compression stroke.
the advantage of a bridge is that instead of the stock -35 BTDC OPENING timing of the stock port, you can have something that opens BEFORE TDC. the PP engine opens at 80 BTDC 6 port opens 115 degrees later, AFTER TDC.
is this PROOF that aux bridging can never work? no, its not, but it seems like a better idea to use the bridge to open earlier, we KNOW that works.
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Hyper4mance2k------your idea of 'bridging just the bottom port on the secondary housing' has been done by BDC at my request this past summer. The car runs great and is set up as a blow-thru turbo. For that reason, the car being turbo even though I used a N/A block; I have not posted my build anywhere in this forum.
I have a video on youtube of the car ideling, its in an RX4. I like to be diffrenet.
I have a video on youtube of the car ideling, its in an RX4. I like to be diffrenet.
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I dont have the pictures in front of me since I am in class but I will put them up asap, after I am done with my mid terms this week in school. I have the youtube video of the car ideling all on my phone, let me know if this link works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2Qc1...e=channel_page
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2Qc1...e=channel_page
#11
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mazda has published some SAE papers, and you can look at port timings too
the stock 6 port engines close at between 75 and 80 degrees ATDC and the PP engine which is the full race max hp engine closes at 80 ATDC.
if you bridge the aux port you keep it open longer. at that point you're open way later than even the full race motor, and well into the compression stroke.
the advantage of a bridge is that instead of the stock -35 BTDC OPENING timing of the stock port, you can have something that opens BEFORE TDC. the PP engine opens at 80 BTDC 6 port opens 115 degrees later, AFTER TDC.
is this PROOF that aux bridging can never work? no, its not, but it seems like a better idea to use the bridge to open earlier, we KNOW that works.
the stock 6 port engines close at between 75 and 80 degrees ATDC and the PP engine which is the full race max hp engine closes at 80 ATDC.
if you bridge the aux port you keep it open longer. at that point you're open way later than even the full race motor, and well into the compression stroke.
the advantage of a bridge is that instead of the stock -35 BTDC OPENING timing of the stock port, you can have something that opens BEFORE TDC. the PP engine opens at 80 BTDC 6 port opens 115 degrees later, AFTER TDC.
is this PROOF that aux bridging can never work? no, its not, but it seems like a better idea to use the bridge to open earlier, we KNOW that works.
My aux bridge opens at 80 btdc and closed at the stock 80 atdc, measured on a degree wheel and rotor while porting it. If you don't extend the eyebrow up past the top arc of the 6th port you don't modify the closing time at all.
#12
Rotary Freak
6 port bridgeport dynoed 230rwhp through the mufflers.. on a racing beat 6 port intake manifold. and a holley 550cfm carb.. this was done about 5 years ago.. i haven't played with one in a while.. im sure higher power could be gain with some electronic fuel injection.. and a nice twm throttle body..
#13
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I have a 13B 6P BP with all ports ported sitting in my shed. However I had it built a few years ago and will be rebuilding it soon with RX8 rotor's and a few other goodies. Will feature quad throttle injection and use a Motec M400 . However, it will be another 2 years before it hit's the track.....stay tuned
#14
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I have a 13B 6P BP with all ports ported sitting in my shed. However I had it built a few years ago and will be rebuilding it soon with RX8 rotor's and a few other goodies. Will feature quad throttle injection and use a Motec M400 . However, it will be another 2 years before it hit's the track.....stay tuned
#15
The Shadetree Project
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I dont have the pictures in front of me since I am in class but I will put them up asap, after I am done with my mid terms this week in school. I have the youtube video of the car ideling all on my phone, let me know if this link works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2Qc1...e=channel_page
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2Qc1...e=channel_page
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Pics look like what you have mocked up there. I would put them up here but I tried and dont know how. Help me out and Ill put them up.
Anyways the center plate is just a street port the outside plates are bridged well the bottom port. The aux port have the pineapple racing sleave inserts that I used some heavy duty bond to secure the entire sleave and instert in place ~open~ since I run blow thru carb with the racing beat carb intake.
Car runs great, drove it all weekend with 5psi. Feel really strong, it really does. No dyno numbers and no quarter mile times yet.
Ricky
Anyways the center plate is just a street port the outside plates are bridged well the bottom port. The aux port have the pineapple racing sleave inserts that I used some heavy duty bond to secure the entire sleave and instert in place ~open~ since I run blow thru carb with the racing beat carb intake.
Car runs great, drove it all weekend with 5psi. Feel really strong, it really does. No dyno numbers and no quarter mile times yet.
Ricky
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Here you go. My best friend uploaded the pics for me. These are the outer plates and center as well. Let me know what you guys think.
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s137/r1967a/IMG_6018.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s137/r1967a/IMG_6017.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s137/r1967a/IMG_6019.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s137/r1967a/IMG_5991.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s137/r1967a/IMG_6018.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s137/r1967a/IMG_6017.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s137/r1967a/IMG_6019.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s137/r1967a/IMG_5991.jpg[/IMG
#21
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With a standalone and a good tuner like BDC you could make my car run better than what it does right now. The reason for this is that people that can tune a carb blow thru are few and far and, I really dont know what the hell I am doing . Still runs great though! I chose a carb turbo setup because the motor was going in an old school car and wanted to stay with the theme. Brian (BDC) did try to convince me to run a haltec but I refused as you all can tell from my set up.
Brian, did you get the youtube video of Hitlar talking crap about rotaries? I think it was funny.
Brian, did you get the youtube video of Hitlar talking crap about rotaries? I think it was funny.
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Previous guise of my above stated motor had the standard intake manifold and fitted with Microtech years ago. I don't have any stats from that other than it 'pulled hard'.
Unique combinatsiob require a lot of time and a lot of money, and that's apart from the motor. Caring to donate
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
Yeah, we're all going to wait 2 years for that.