ok ill keep my spam to this thread, any tips if these setups are incorrect.
I have :13bt half bridge turbo 2 engine with 55mm webber style efi hardware throttlebody, highflow 76mm ta45 turbo with t6 rear and 1.22 A/R
M2R
CDI motec 42012
4x mercury coils 42024
generic three wire tps
3bar map delco 53003
4x bosch indy injectors,blue tops 34998
bosch coolant temp 55001
delco air temp 54002
aero eliminator fuel pump with aero a1000 regulator black top with pressure gauge, pressure is set to 50psi at the moment

Im only really chasing setup ideas and info along the way with my combo, its only a drag car will see no road time, so refined idle quality and economy can jump ship

I dont know how to save the dos screens for loading up on this website so i got some photos for you to see.




do these basic settings look ok for what i have now, ps i also have my engine builder wanting to check tdc on the pulley, as we built a bitsa motor with s5 crank/s6 gears/s4 rotors/s5 cas/s4 crank nose with s5 timing pulleys, so yeh my original tdc does not match the s5 tdc marks, i don't have a crank reference to go from, closest i found when i was in a hurry back then was the s4 pulley but it was not mine and i had to retro mark new tdc on it, so as you can understand im still to be 100% assured we have true tdc on the pulley
Im getting good help back home now but i wold like some input from motec experienced abroad if i could please

Oh yeh i got injector max errors today and cas errors too, i think its the custom plug i cut an shut into the cas thats cuasing the errors so thats going, but the injector error i think is a setting ive done wrong

 

is the dead band timing going to be needed since i have injector max fault logged, and since i have same injects all round do i set the secondary injection ratio to 1, and is the fuel used cal correct for 4 bosh indy blues.
And is the eff and load points correct being number 4 for map on both, as i see 50~80 on the load in main fuel maps whilst idling, i touch the throttle and it goes to 100%, and yes i did set my tps scale at the start

 

The secondary ratio is set to 1, however you need the dead times for the injectors to run properly!! Let me see if I can find some data to get you close.

 

Injector -Flow CC/min- Flow LB/Hr- Ohm -10v -11v -12v- 13v- 14v -15v
Ford Motorsport 1680 -160 -5- 1.80 -1.51 -1.28 -1.09 -0.94 -0.8 ( blue )

Ford Motorsport 1600- 152- 5 -1.61- 1.32 -1.11- 0.96 -0.83 -0.72 ( white )

RC Engineering 1600 -152 -3 -1.80 -1.46 -1.23 -1.05 -0.92 -0.81

Denso 1600 -152 -5 -0.99 -0.84 -0.72 -0.60 -0.50 -0.41

Rochester 1000 -95 -2 -1.38 -1.15 -0.96 -0.81 -0.70 -0.60

 

nice nubers mr bumps, but my setup goes from 5v to 15v, i need a whole heap more numbers to suit
this is a pic of my screen now.

 

beware i gave you millisecond,, and your scale is microseconds

ie 1 ms= 1 kHz
and 1 us= 1 MHz
and 10 us= 100 kHz
and 1000 us = 1khz

so,, multiply my numbers by 1000 to get your us value

ie,, 13V = 0.96 ms = 960 us

and i really do not think,, especially in you race engine that your going to need any useful numbers under 10V on the battery/latency adjust
-- even if you went all microtech on us and ran a dummy alt !!!! LOL

personally,, plot the trend and guestiguage the values for lower than 10V
-- it will never look them up anyhows

 

thanks heaps again, but aha, dont forget the drag game comes with shock loading, hence belt throwing, so if me alt stops and im still going flat out then i suppose the system current draw could be enough to drop the volt readings alot, so ti would be nice to have a true back up setting if the worst case scenario happened

And yeh ive already been told to rip out the regulator and run me alt flat out

 

as long as you do not mount the batteries longitudinally,,
( and use HD,, or jet ski batteries with the divided spacers )
it will never pole out and drop below 10V over 400m
-- or over 10 x 400m
regardless of the belts/ dummy alt/ rigged reg

-- and BTW,, wouldn't it be smarter in micro land with nil latency adjust to instead run dual jet ski batteries
-- and have the alt entirely disconnected ,, and working only as an idler pulley?
LOL
-- no drag to make it wish to strip,, and steadier voltage again than a rigged reg
( in fact,, i see smarts in building a custom 18V battery and running all DC with no alt )

all sundry i suppose when you get a real ECU with latency tables to burn ??

 

i changed some inject voltage dead time settings, now i get max errors on all injectors, when before all i had them on was the primaries, and im still getting sync and reff errors, can those errors be from running too rich and getting spark fail from it being too rich, or is it a cas problem or wiring problem that could trigger these errors

 

not so familiar with what the max error actually is
but i can guess that it is a maxed duty cycle
it may be that some numbers in the map co-relate with max duty periods

-- and since its adding that latency delay to the injector timing then it may have pushed some numbers up a little
--- but i suggest also that changing your secondary/primary injector ratio has been the real culprit in making them all hit warning

however,, i can tell you that home and sync errors are usually RFI --NOISE
you may need to run separate coax the long way around the bay to the CAS
avoiding plugs leads CDI units, heavy cables and alternators

-- getting the CAS polarity right is the number 1 priority
- then the passive wiring techniques ,, all shield wrapped and earthed at the ECU end

followed by the correct trigger polarity,filter threshold values, input volt amp etc
IE
VR must be done without compromises ,,
that may mean moving your CDI as many have hinted
find out what others are using as the best filter values,,,,
-- and find out which is more filter,, which is less

 

actually i just noticed i have changed my injector scaling from 12 to 15, **** noes why, i might change that and see what happens,
When i first fired up this unit, i never had max injector dramas in faults being logged, so its something ive changed on the way, also i never had cas ref and sync dramas too, its all come along this week
I gotta send this monkey away soon, or ill kill it

So anyone know what injector scaling means, as in the help page it tells me to select between 12~15 for turbo engines, and that meas what in basic oil monkey terms

 

Mr echo again
got no cas ref and sync errors now, sorted that drama, and ive put the injector settings back to number 12 for injector scaling
6.0 on inject current
6 on inject battery comp

I now get a peak injector error that comes and goes, it isnt on all injects as im only idling the unit, so secondaries aint coming in
So the primaries log a error occasionally, and its funny as it can be injector 1 then later it goes to injector 2 on the primary, and sometimes its both

WHAT is it that i need to do to correct this problem, is it sending away my injectors for bench testing and ****, i dunno someone got any tips on this one, as its about teh only drama i have left at the moment

 

Any updates beefy ?

 

went for a bog lap round belmont the other day but yeh im just finishing off some wiring to make it neater and im about to try some dead band timing settings on me unit, but apart from that it starts first pop runs doesnt like big revs or boost as its way out of tune still, but yeh its getting ready for a tune now
Im just gonna spend the rest of the arvo on it at work now as we got nothing left to do

 

thanks to the guys who have helped out heaps, in here and at home, the car is off to tune land next week, its running a treat as it is now,
we have found someone in Perth who is not a rotary related tuner, who is willing to help sort out my dramas, he has had success sorting out another local Perth racers Mazda fd setup and now its my turn,
I suppose in the end its not really if you know about rotaries, its about if you know how to use motec, Ive got alot to learn, and im hoping to enroll in the efi101 course in sydney this year, and hears hoping to a good outcome in the next few weeks

just a vid of its sounds now, its running rich still and it diesels a little bit when cold as you can hear it leaving the shop, but once warm its a ******* animal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4pl0ULo3kE


Edit you cant adjust the crip whilst running aye, as i had a guy last week try to set it whilst running, but to me you would think its running off the timing maps and would give you a false crip setting if you tried to adjust it running, as i would like to set it from the timing/crip check screen with plugs out and installed in the end of the leads

 

car is runnign ******* mint now
next Q if any of you guys know of the top of your heads, can my m2r do a two step launch and boost gain feature like the microtech unit does, ima wanting to scare the neighbors in the morning waking them up with popin an bangin noises
Take into account that i have all two outputs used (for fuel pump and ignition x4 setup) up and i have the motec rotary cdi unit controlling ignition

 

Two-step you won't need any extra outputs to engage, however the boost controller would so that wouldn't fly..

 

sorry question missed,
Is there two step avail in a m2r computer, or do i have to buy a external unit like a beeR unit,
I was mentioning a boost building unit as other guys in different countries call it different ****, i have a hks elec boost controller, and all im really after is if i have the capability to get two step from my M2R
oh and would it be a extra input needed to control a switch for two step, as i may have one left yeh the m2r is a bit of a gimmick in that department (input/output)

Ive got me car interior out getting roll cage installed, fired up the unit for the guys at the shop and its running sweet still, goes into a nice idle not to long after start up, not bad for 1600 primaries

 

Sorry, misunderstood. Actually, the motec's have anti-lag, but no two-step function (unless you have version 3 and build your own table..) so it would be easier to implement an external 2-step module.

 

thats what i thought, have red about it and thought may have to go external setup, im not sure what version my unit is, is it on the box, or on the startup screens

 

**** me half our good threads are gone, damn that m2r thread was perfect for first timers
can we ask a admin to put it back

 

just change your "display options" at the bottom of the forum page to "from the beginning" and the thread is still here, its just really old now...

 

ok new little drama, but all is well with the rest of the car
i have purchased a autometer tacho. now what wire do i cut or both or none to make it read correctly.
Blue or Brown, or both or none, my signal is coming from my motec cdi unit

 

alternatively does any one know what sort of signal is coming out of the cdi unit for the tacho

 

ok for future reference its the blue wire to cut on the autometer gauge, IN MY situation
Thanks again, for help fellas, but really i just needed a excuse to go start my car and rev it again