Wallyman

iTrader: (4)

Anyone in the Grand Rapids area have the tools and expertise to help do an alignment on a lowered FC?

Over the weekend I installed the following on my LT1/T56 87 T2:

Stance GR+ coilovers
Full Prothane bushing kit (front/rear LCA, front/rear sway mount, tie rod and ball joint boots)
MMR DTSS eliminators
MMR UHMW diffy and subframe mounts
Pulled/cleaned/reinstalled adjustable rear camber sublink bar
Swapped rear diffy
Put on '00 Mustang GT 5 spoke rims w/ 235/40/17 Goodyear GS-D3's

So basically I messed with every single alignment adjustment. I need to set ride height, and dial in a typical street/open track alignment (I need to figure out the specs for that , haven't got it yet). I have a heated garage and the ability to level the car 5" above the concrete floor to allow for adjustment of things, but do not own the caster/camber/toe gear... I've done my own alingment on my Miata with some DIY tools, which is sort of the same but not really. Point being I understand the concept and the mechanics of it but lack the proper tools.

I'd love to find a SCCA racer to help me, so I can trade some body panels for the help.. I have a few S5 things laying around that are perfect for a racecar. Or if you want to do it for Beer and Pizza, I 'm all over that as well!

PM me if you are interested in helping, looking to do it as soon as possible some evening this week, after I get home from work around 5:30pm. I can problably drive the car to your place if that's easier, just need to get some sort of baseline on the car tonight.

Wallyman

Pp.s. optionally, if there is a recommendation for a good alignment shop in the GR area, that's good to know too...

Kentetsu

Sorry, can't help you out with this one. However, if I absolutely had to take my car in to a shop for something like this, I would take it to Arie Nol's. They take care of my Bimmer for me. Good luck...



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Wallyman

iTrader: (4)

Cool, thanks. I may have a lead on a helper, not sure yet tho.

Doing a little digging now to find the right specs, leaning towards this:

Front:
-2.0 degrees camber (maybe only -1.5 degrees camber to minimize tire wear)
1/16 inch total toe-in (1/32 inch at each wheel)

Rear
-1.0 degrees of camber (or as close to 1.0 as I can get with the parts I have)
1/8 inch total toe-in (1/16 inch at each wheel)

Ride height around 25" give or take a smidge.. mostly dependant on exhaust clearnace (which is ~1.5" lower than the frame tubes).

Wallyman