so i have finally finished my install,and i'm having some problems.
first of all,my laptop wont conect.I'm using my 25pin port with a adaptar that adapts it to the 9 pin serial,and when i hit f1 or f2 it wont connect.unfortunately,i'm no pc wizard,maybe someone could point me in the right direction as far as checking the settings on the laptop.I'm running 2000 professional.
2nd,i did try to start the car w/o adjusting the tps,it just turns over,almost pops but no go.
i have a green light on the MT and the orange one flashes while cranking-is this correct or not?the manual mentions nothing about flashing orange.
i have fuel and spark.i doublechecked all connections,they are all ok,everything was soldered.
any ideas?
thanks!

david

 

do you have a microtech laptop dongle?? with out this you will not be able to connect to the ecu.

the orange is suppose to flash when cranking so by the sounds of it you have the CAS correct,

try adding some more fuel and calabrating the tps this shoul help

Dale

 

jeah,Dale,i do have the dongle.It seems,if anything,its to much fuel,but,once i get this connection figuered out i can see whats going on.Hopefully calibrating the TPS will do the trick...

david

 

do you have the latest version of the microtech software off www.microtechefi.com?? it should connect if you have the dongle etc, what is the message that it gives you when you try to connect??

Dale

 

all right,got a update.Turns out,i was trying to use a 25pin LPT/printer port to connect.[like i sayd,no pc wiz here].
i picked up a serial to usb adapter[balkins],installed it and i did get my connection!
unfortunately,even after calibrating my tps,i get nothing. I dont get any error msg.,just a whirr whirr whirr of my motor spinning.orange now lights up ecu on,no cranking,like it should.
other then checking compression,where do i start here?i suppose i can go trough and check all the connection one more time....should i be yanking wires apart here and resoldering?i'm pretty confident that i got very good "hot"solder connections.
unfortunately,i am not familiar with the maps yet to be able to tell if the base map is about what it should be.

i have pulled the [new]plugs and found them to be wet with fuel after cranking,pulled a fuel hose off and got plenty of fuel flow[no pressure gauge handy].
i do have spark on the leading plugs,have not checked trailling.

the car has been sitting for a while,and i had some trouble getting things to turn over at first.a new starter and some atf took care of that,and i was getting very distinct compression puffs with the plugs out turning the motor by hand,wich has less then 10k on it since a rebuild.
i guess i could still really use some help here.

david

 

If your getting fuel and spark, then maybe your timing is off?

 

I had a buddy with the same problem with his toyota pickup: he had fuel and spark but the engine wouldn't fire up. It turned out to be a deffective ECU. This sounds like a timing issue or bad wiring. I wish that I could be of more help.

 

Check your timing and see if your coils are firing. When brandon and ray installed my LT8 they found the wiring diagram was slightly different for the N/A coil hookup. If I remember correctly, it was the coil nearest the firewall that had some wires hooked up wrong.

Your symptoms sound like mine. Check your coils and make sure they are firing.

 

ahh,finally got around to messing with my rx7 again.
i checked compression,looks great.125+psi on all rotors,nice even bounces.
picked up a timing light,had to adjust a bit,i would say it was 5-10* retarded(?),around the secondary mark.
turns out the secondaries are not firing at all-any suggestions for troubleshooting?is there a way t see if the ecu is picking up the signal,i.o.w,sending a signal?how do i get to the test mode?i suppose if i could run the ecu in test i can see if the signal wires are giving me any voltage...
i did try to start it with only the primary coil,and it almost went,and died right away.
does that sound like fixing the sec.spark will get things rolling?
thanks for all your input,i have been super busy so no time to work on the car till now.
david

 

try half split bracketing. Go ahead and check the inputs to the coils from the ECU.
if they are good then your problem is bad coils, crossed wires, or a short or open in/after the coil circuitry.
if you are not getting the proper inputs to the coils then you need to work your way back towards the ECU. diconnect the connector from the ecu and measure resistance from ign signals to ground, they should read open. also check your wires from ecu connector to ignition coils, if open you have a broken wire or bad connection somewhere before the coils.

start with the basics.;o)

good luck, let us know what you find

 

good news!
i got the motor started!still have issues to work out,but at least i feel like i'm getting somewhere.
the trailling coils are still not working.i checked the resistance as per haynes and they check out fine,they have 12+,and the wires from the ecu are hooked up right.i will check tomorrow as far as tracing down a problem in the wiring like wanklin mentioned.
i'm still getting used to the software-where can i check to see if the ecu is getting the signal from the cas?
otherwise,things are a bit rough.its running way rich,once warmed up,when i rev it to 2-3k and let of it backfires[on decel] and belches out very rich smelling exhaust.the afr reflect this on the laptop.
it also will not hold a idle well,if the tps is at 1% or more,it idles fine, at about 1k[timing advances],but at 0% it will idle rough or die.
i have not set timing lock yet,or adjusted the idle or anything,just adjusted the tps before startup.
how likely is it that these symtoms are coused by the lack of trailling spark?i always thought they where more for emissions then anything else...

other then that it was awesome to hear the rotory come to life again.its been almost a year!

david

 

its me again-hopefully some1 will actually read through all my rambelings.

ok,trailling coils are firing. think my problem was low voltage.i found a old thread where dale indicated that the trailling coils will not fire if the voltage is low.

now,i'm trying to get a good idle setup.problem is,whenever i let off and reach 0%tps-the engine dies.
i recalibrated the tps slightly off,so it reads 1% w/foot off the pedal,and it idles rock solid at 880rpm[timing is at 0*].i can even play with the load fuel map and get it even smoother[no worries,changed'em back to original setting].
i changed the idle maps to reflect the values i got in the load map experiment,recalibrated the tps again,same as before,it reaches 0%,it dies instantly.
if anything,its runing way rich.afr is deep in the green,but seem very unacurate,when i pulled fuel out of it in the load map,there was no change,even when the engine was almost stalling due to fuel starvation[at 880rpm].same with adding fuel.
timing is right on the money,leadng mark.
throttle adj.screw is all the way out.
what else comes into play at idle[0%tps]?
grrr.stumped again...

david

 

you guys are getting the blow by blow here.maybe it will help someone out sometime.

somehow its working out.dont really know how or what i did,but its idling just fine on the idle map now,at 0%tps.
i suppose i'll see how it goes when its cold again.
i actually took it for a drive-the low end torque was amazing!it needs a bunch of tuning,hacks and spits a bunch and stuff.
anyone know any tuners in the pacific northwest that have expierience with MT?i think the car would make it to a shop not to far away..
might be a wiser move then me going to town on all the fuel and ignition maps,especially w/o a wideband.
thanks

david

 

if your idle is working good on the 1% throttle change the values in the idle map to similer ones that are in the load map at those points,,

For the tune, try and find someone who is good with the NA rotarys, there is lots of power to be found with splits and stuff.

Dale